LilBeaver
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Everything posted by LilBeaver
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Not quite. This one was black and a much brighter green. It was a really nice color set! Wish I could have grabbed a picture. -
This is exactly what the problem is. I too have been a ford owner for a while and my friend's family has been ford owner's all their lives. Great vehicles. I/We were just very disappointed that this problem happened and that Ford was unwilling to send out a simple letter suggesting that the customer's just CHECK/REPLACE their sparkplugs. This will NOT prevent me from getting another Ford, I am just disappointed with this experience.
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Spotted a Black and GREEN venture in Walled Lake/West Bloomfield Michigan turning southbound onto union lake road in Walled lake or west bloomfield (I'm not sure what it is there). I am 99% sure that I have seen pictures of this custom painted RSV on here before and am wondering who it might be Beautiful weather out, by the way. I was in a cage taking my Grandfather to a Dr appointment, but my RSV is currently in their garage
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I have attached the ACTUAL TSB. This ONLY affects some of the 2005 and 2006 Ford Escapes (and Mercury Mariners) that have the V6. Some drunk in the factory installed the wrong spark plugs and Ford was too cheap to send letters to the owners suggesting that they check their spark plugs before it fries the PCM. If you have not already, you are going to need to replace at least one of the front catalytic converters too, if not both. A friend of mine just went through this and her car is sitting in my garage awaiting the new cats. Although the shop that worked on hers initially ONLY replaced one of the 6 coils they said they did among other things, so she has had some other issues too. But thanks a lot Ford, way to stand behind your products.
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I do. I will clean up the spreadsheet(s) that I use and write up a little blurb on the parameters that go into the calculations as well as any assumptions that I have or will make. I will come up with a few numbers with respect to operating expense and an estimate of 'cost of ownership' (since I have not sold my RSV, I can only guess at the depreciation but will do that too). I do have these numbers off the top of my head but I would prefer to 'show my work' so to speak so that anyone that choose to can make adjustments for their own ride, riding style, geographical location, etc etc. I do ride all year 'round, except for the few days here and there we get ice and the slightly more frequent times that we get winds that are 60+ mph. I have a short commute to my lab but also ride quite a bit for recreation (at least I used to ). Give me some time, I have been super busy with work lately, but I should be able to squeak some time in here and there to get something written up for those that are interested.
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Well, after going through all of the electrical connections and grounds (including tightening the pins on the regulator/rectifier unit) and replacing the ignition unit my bike seems to be running great! I have put on about 500 miles since replacing the unit and several starts/stops therein and not so much as a hiccup. So, my preliminary conclusion is that something happened to my ignition unit. I did have some problems with my regulator/rectifier unit about 2 years ago and I wonder if something happened to it back then and it just took a while for these symptoms to manifest. Upon closer inspection of my old ignition unit, it does appear to show some signs of water damage on the backside but I have not opened it up yet to give a detailed inspection as I am not sure if I can open it and close it back up without completely scrapping it (although since it is likely the culprit, I will probably be scrapping it anyways). Thanks for the ideas folks!
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Huh, how about that! Someone beat me to it thanks to the little 'suggested thread' thingy at the bottom of the 'new thread' page. I will not duplicate too much of what Brian (Tx2Sturgis) has already written, but I will add a little. We sort of lucked out as it was cloudy out. Why is that lucky you ask? Well when the temperatures are somewhere between 95 and 105, the cloud cover is welcomed greatly! The ride down took us through some of the less traveled roads in this area which is a nice break from the state/US highways that are flat and boring. I do not have too many pictures to add and Brian's are far better than the ones I took. The musicians were terrific, the ride was nice and it sure was a great time hanging out and chatting. I have been hammered with work over the course of the last several months and this was the first TRUE day off I have had since... well probably around Thanksgiving. I wish I could have worked my schedule a little better to have some more time off but I guess I will settle for the less than 24 hour period we had. The ride back up was a bit rough, although I must correct you here Brian as we were not experiencing the 'West Texas' dust, those 40-60mph winds (according to NOAA) were carrying NEW MEXICO through where we were at... Texas was long gone by that point! Despite my intense sleep deprivation, I sure did have a good time as well. Thanks Brian for extending the invitation (and, of course, stumbling across these ladies' schedule). Until next time EDIT: Oh yeah, and to confirm, after replacing the ignition unit, cleaning all of the electronic connections (including grounds), etc etc my bike is running GREAT!
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Mechanic in Birmingham AL
LilBeaver replied to jw18's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
When you had the carbs apart for cleaning, did you also take time to set the floats? A picture to see where the fuel is coming from would be helpful (as George suggests). Sounds like the previous owner did not do you many favors on this bike :-\ Sorry to hear that... -
Hard downshifting
LilBeaver replied to 05Venture's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
First of all welcome to the site! Few questions for you: When you changed your spring, did you inspect/clean the plates and such before reassembly? What does your clutch fluid look like now? How full is your reservoir? It sounds to me like you may have some air in the lines still (although why it would happen when the bike is warm and not happen when cool is slightly inconsistent with that thought). The clutch is a pain in the rumpus to bleed without a vacuum bleeder. I know that it can be done (I have done it) but it is a heck of a lot easier with the proper tool. Oil is the next thing to consider but I will leave that one to the 'experts'. How many miles have you put on it since the last oil change? -
Wow. Well done!
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I hadn't considered riding pillion with you, but thanks for the offer!
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Well I spent the better part of yesterday going through things (helping a certain friend of mine clean the carbs on her bike) and getting my bike back together. Ongoing checklist: - Ignition switch wiring under the fuel tank for signs of burnt connectors: Checked out fine - Fuel pump operation: Verified (Hard start condition duplicated after fuel pump cycled; fuel pumps from out tube into glass jar at reasonable rate). - Regulator/Rectifier unit: Inspected/cleaned/Tightened electrical connectors no visible issues - Tested battery and charging system: Good condition - Grounds: None were noticeable loose, corroded/dirty, etc ie Good - Tilt/angle 'emergency stop' switch: Investigation Partially inconclusive; preliminary assignment is 'okay' condition - Ignition module: Inconclusive, but preliminarily looking good Replaced with known good unit - Bike fired right up, no hesitation at all. Only been through a few cycles thus far but so far so good.
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A run flat, eh? Now THAT is something to seriously consider as an upgrade in tire. Now there is a side of you that I probably could have gone without EVER seeing... :duck:
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That it is. By 'remove, clean and inspect' I had been referring to the actual sending unit BUT popping off the cover to inspect the connector IS easy enough to do. When you have that off, if you have a multimeter you can actually check both the "fuel gauge" circuit and the "fuel trip meter" circuit. The procedure is outlined in the service manual. Feel free to let me know if you have questions or need a hand with that.
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Dave: The fuel sender unit is pretty straight forward (I have some pictures of it but they are on my other computer - I'll edit this post with pictures later) and from what you describe, a logical conclusion is that it simply got stuck. Personally, I would not worry about it. Maybe next time you have the tank off, drain it and pop out the sending unit to inspect and clean it. The fuel sending unit has a float attached, to a rod, with contacts on it that move along a board with various contacts with varying resistance. As the float moves up or down (as the fuel level changes) the resistance of the circuit changes which is what the 'fuel gauge' is actually measuring. Now, the tricky part is that the 'fuel trip meter' and the 'fuel gauge' itself are two separate circuit components. The fuel trip meter portion is actually a separate entity that is submerged in the fuel and is supposed to be activated when the fuel level drops below it. Impurities in the fuel, moisture bubble, air bubble, etc could cause a false read that would go away after the gauge cycles. Also, the 'fuel trip odometer' is supposed to reset (and disappear) when that component is submerged for 5.0 miles so it is possible that maybe it had switched to count up right before you stopped and you maybe didn't notice it until after you were driving again. EDIT: After re-reading your original post, I see that you rode ~20 miles after the fill up then shut off. This renders my last point moot as it would NOT be left over from before your fill up. So, it is possible that your unit is on the fritz, but again, pulling it and giving it a decent inspection and cleaning may be in order... or at least wait to see if the symptoms are repeated at some point. Again, if it were me, I would not worry about it unless it happened again. It may be enough to prompt using the "ON" selection instead of "RES" selection on the petcock (if you are one of those that relies on the fuel trip gauge instead of switching the petcock) but since it is a non-essential component of the bike that won't cause any problems if it fails, I would ride on and if it happens again, then worry about troubleshooting it. Just my :2cents:
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I have ridden cross country several times on my venture. To answer your question: NO. Not tomorrow. :bang head:
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Yes, it is a 2 wire setup. Good thought and this was the FIRST thing I checked when I got that first reading and it is, in fact, through the sensor, in which that particular reading comes. Enter my confusion Good thought. I am quite certain that the fuel pump is not the culpret, at least for the hard starting issues because twice now I have had the hard starting situation and the fuel pump did its clicking thing, as it should, and the bike still did not start. I am STILL going to come up with some type of setup that will allow me to track the fuel pump and ignition circuits (separately) in order to continue to troubleshoot this garbage. Thanks for the ideas.
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My hesitation in assigning it to the side-stand/neutral 'safety' circuit is that when the bike cranks but does not start, it actually does CRANK. If you try to start your bike with the side-stand down it simply will NOT crank at all - ie the starter does not engage. I do realize that these issues may very well be unrelated and I have inspected and cleaned them anyways. -- For what it is worth, I have done the following: - Checked ignition switch wiring under the fuel tank for signs of burnt connectors: Checked out fine - Fuel pump operation: Verified (Hard start condition duplicated after fuel pump cycled as it should). - Inspected/cleaned/Tightened electrical connectors on regulator/rectifier unit: no issues there - Tested battery: Good condition - Checked/tightened ALL of the grounds (none were noticeable loose, corroded/dirty, etc) - Inspected ignition and have replacement: Inconclusive - Started inspection of tilt/angle 'emergency stop' switch - resistance measurement 61 kOhms(!!!!!) Service manual claims 0 resistance when operating normally and infinite (as well as check engine light triggered) when tripped. When switch UNPLUGGED, check engine light flashes, bike cranks but will NOT start. When switch bypassed via a 300ohm resistor, behaves as if not plugged in. When Plugged in, bike starts right up (I see this as being inconclusive as of right now) Currently working on how to get the friggen tilt sensor OUT of its current location so that I can disassemble and thoroughly inspect it for proper operation. (ie see http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=68935 ) Since it is Saturday night now, I will wait to order a new switch until at least tomorrow (since it won't go out until Monday anyways), before which I hope to be able to get this current one off to inspect it. I can think of at least two pretty good reasons to get this figured out and back together by Thursday afternoon...
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Thanks a lot for those pictures Gary, that is quite helpful. I was working under the assumption that the design was similar between the 1st and 2nd gen but I do not know if that is true any more. When I unplug the sensor and crank the bike, I get the check engine light code indicating that the tilt sensor has tripped. If I jump the two contacts with a 300 ohm resistor (I was not quite brave enough to short it out completely), I get the same code. Measuring the resistance of my sensor [while bike upright, of course] I end up with 61 kOhms! I have verified that my meter is functioning properly by checking it against some known resistors. With the sensor plugged in I do NOT get the check engine light flashing and it will start right up (in the garage at least). My initial problem was that I will get a non-start condition consisting of the bike cranking normally, (fuel pump operational) and simply not starting. (as explained in the other thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68293 ). With the sensor unplugged, I get the flashing check engine light (fault code 9, which IS consistent with the service manual) and the bike cranks fine but will not start. I am still trying to come up with a way to get this dumb thing off my bike so that I can inspect it first hand.
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Okay, this must be it: Item #2 on page 2-38. BUT, how in the world is one supposed to get to that ON the bike :think: Thanks guys! If I can actually find it on a REAL bike, I will take REAL pictures of it and post it here. Back out to the man cave WITH a new idea of where to look... drum roll please... Okay, found it. Holy smokes. Now I need someone with very tiny tiny tiny hands... Thanks for the help folks!
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Oops, sorry. I should have made that more clear in my original post. 2001 RSV Yes that is what I am looking for. Investigating the cable routing attachment now. As for the header not being right, I have no idea why mine doesn't show up I made that change long long ago. See attached. Looking now.
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Well, I am well into my bike trying to figure out what the heck my deal is (as per thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68293) and have it basically narrowed down to the ignition unit or the lean/tilt/angle/bank sensor. The service manual has it labeled on page 8-3 as an "Emargency stop switch" (spelling accurate as per service manual, which made me chuckle). I have also 'located' it on the parts fiche (Part 54 on "Electrical 1" 2001 RSV [not that the year matters): (EMERGENCY STOP SWITC 4BH-82576-01-00 (replaces 4BH-82576-00-00)) Now, my problem is I cannot find the darn thing on my bike. I have checked behind both lower cowlings, under the tank, along the neck and I cannot for the life of me find it! Here is a picture of it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Venture-Royal-Star-XVZ1300-BANK-ANGLE-SENSOR-/370012459623?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5626761267&vxp=mtr Anyone know where this s.o.b actually is?!?!?!?!?!? Much obliged. :bang head::bang head: Cheers.
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This is a bit of a long shot, but I had some very screwy behavior on mine when my regulator/rectifier unit bit the dust. I would pull the seat off, start the bike and measure the terminal voltage of the battery at idle as well as at high revs. It should never exceed 14.2V. If it does, bada-bing. Like I said, this is a long shot but a malfunctioning rectifier/regulator unit can cause all sorts of problems. After mine did this, I needed to replace my main radio amp as well as a handful of other electronic parts. As others stated, checking the audio connector wires inside the front fairing and under the passenger seat are also good places to start. You could also pull fuses and check for continuity between different circuits on the bike, but in this case a null result is inconclusive. Checking the simple stuff first, seems like a reasonable way to proceed though. Electrical problems, ESPECIALLY intermittent ones, are the absolute WORST!
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Do You Have a Spare Ignition Module for RSV?
LilBeaver replied to LilBeaver's topic in Watering Hole
Howdy: Well, I hooked up the new module and it started right up but have not gotten it out for a test ride yet. Various parts are strewn over my garage at the moment and that ugly 'w' word seems to be taking up most of my time I will definitely keep you updated though! While I hope for tonight, realistically it probably won't be until tomorrow or Saturday when I can spend a solid chunk of time getting this sucker back together and/or figured out. BUT, none the less, I am looking forward to it. Thanks again! -Rick -
:yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes: http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-basic/popcorn.gif