Jump to content

LilBeaver

Expired Membership
  • Posts

    2,972
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by LilBeaver

  1. I'm no expert but do not forget to make an appropriate estimate for repairs, maintenance, taxes, etc. Since ANY incidental expense related to it will reduce your return. ALSO, do not forget that there are plenty of tax write-offs that can be associated with this too that can indirectly (but effectively) increase your return rate based on what you will be able to write off (ie pay less taxes). If I recall correctly, (my mom is a real estate agent and we had talked about this a while back) the rule of thumb for setting the rental rate is along the lines of 1.5*mortgage payment +/- a little to adjust for location, condition, what it has rented for in the past (if rented) and whatever else you need to adjust for.
  2. Maybe I'm just that special, but I do not need to remove my passing lamps to remove the fairing and I do NOT have the spacer in mine (although I would like to get it). I DO need to loosen up the bolts, but I do not need to take them all the way out. I have had my fairing on and off MANY times in the last few weeks... It is the Yamaha light bar and I have the visor on all of my lights (including the headlamp). EDIT: Oops, I just saw the date on the original question and you have already purchased the spacer so this is probably irrelevant.
  3. haha.. Yup, rag and a rubber band - keeps the dirt out too. (A clean golf tee works too, but with the way I golf, I have none that are clean OR still in one piece)
  4. I wish you'd post the details for your seat mod that made it fly off... There are sometimes I wouldn't mind having an ejector button for the passenger...
  5. It'll be there waiting for you! Have a safe (and enjoyable) ride home!! Remember to take it around a parking lot a little before you get your passenger on there... (And take it easy at low speed - keep that front wheel straight when you stop!) Gdspeed.
  6. Not being able to engine brake would be tough to get used to I bet... I know it would be fun, but I'd probably only have 1 ride on it and be 6' under!
  7. 1) You have mentioned a few times now it happens while you trailer. Silly question, does it happen when you do not have your trailer? 2) On my way in to the office today I paid close attention to it and tried a few different things. I noticed the behavior that you described when I was in 5th and gently rolled on below 45 mph. (In my opinion though, that is much to slow to be rolling back on the throttle in 5th gear; but I did notice the behavior that you describe). I did not try it in other gears as traffic did not allow that. Checking throttle cables, and making sure everything is lubed up and moving appropriately is never a bad idea though.
  8. +1 to this. The tank can be off in less than 5 minutes. I was surprised at how easy it was when I first did it (even when everyone else talked about how easy it is.
  9. I originally had beam time at TRIUMF this week (through next week, including the weekend) -- meaning I would have been in Vancouver. I opted to switch with a colleague because it fit his schedule better... Too bad I didn't see this before I agreed to the switch Have fun!
  10. Especially if you hit it during one of the 'show off your car' days... where people from all over come and show what they personally have done to their vetts!
  11. If/when you decide to come through Lubbock or within say 150 miles or so, I'd be game for a meal or Ice cream if you want, and/or ride with you for part of the way. My number is in my profile, just let me know! Have a great trip!
  12. LilBeaver

    New Tires

    I usually run 40 psi front and 48 psi rear (for around town). Long rides I drop the rear to 46psi. The cracking was only on one side of the tires. (Front was the right side, rear was the left side) which led me to believe that it was a problem with the tire it self. Back on topic though, there are quite a few folks on here that have Michelin Commanders. I have no experience with those but that would be another option to look at and maybe find some input on.
  13. I know this is not going to answer your question; but in a bind, the black, heavy-duty garbage bags do wonders.
  14. Out of curiosity here did you compare the electrodes of the new versus old plugs when you changed them? I would be interested to see how 'worn' they actually are when you get to the recommended change interval. Although I have a new set sitting in the garage and only about 6,000 miles on mine, so I suppose I could take a looksee to see what mine look like too. Thanks!
  15. James: I know you had said taht the regulator was replaced a few months later but about how many miles went between each of these problems? (A guesstimate is perfectly fine).
  16. Now this would be interesting to do. I've never been a believer in these fancy plugs or 'magic plugs' (as well put by Goose). So this could possibly be a conclusive test.
  17. Looks like you had a great trip!!
  18. LilBeaver

    New Tires

    I have had a problem with severe sidewall cracking on a set of Avon Venoms I had (on my Venture). Avon customer service has been terrific though and replaced both of the tires. Both tires were within 1 year of age and were kept in optimal conditions for tires. My replacements have a little over 5,000 miles on them and have been on for 1 month (rear) and 3 months (for the front). Both replaced with tires that have date codes of early 2009. I noticed, while working on my bike in the last couple of days that my front is already developing cracks that are reminiscent of the last set I had. (I know it is not the environment that is causing it because the other tires that are on my other bikes are much older and with sidewalls that look brand new (stored in the same place as my RSV). If I didn't have the mileage on these tires that I do, I would be headed back to the dealer that I got them from and have them switched out with E3s. (My dealer offered to switch the back one with an E3 instead of the Avon when I got that one changed and I decided to go ahead and give the Avon another try since so many people on here have been happy with them). Also, my local dealer stocks Dunlop and they keep our size in stock all the time (for a little over 100 bucks too). So that also goes into my decision to go to the E3s. BTW I check my tire pressure and glance at the condition of them before I ride, and I ride daily... Anyways, I am happy with the way the Avons handle and ride just not happy with the deteriorating sidewall and price tag that comes with it. Just my
  19. Hopefully it is just an old fuse that gave up and nothing more serious. Something you may want to check is the wires that come through the fork area up to the lights. I know those are a real common set to wear. I don't know that it would blow your main fuse (since it seems to me that it ought to blow the headlamp fuse, if anything) but nevertheless you could check those for worn insulation causing a short to ground. And also the main grounding point on the bike - down by the horn there is a bolt with a wire lead leaving it going up to the battery; check that for any sign of corrosion (again, I do not know that this could be a cause the main fuse to go but grounding things can show some fishy behavior). PS, I keep a full set of backup fuses with me - just in case it happens on the road so I can at least get home. Oh yea, and if you have a driver's backrest, double check to make sure that the wires under where that mounts are not being pinched.
  20. Did you check the main 30A fuse? It is located behind the plate that the passenger's left ankle would be right next to. I found it to be a little bit difficult to get to/find, but it is there. I would check that first. Then let us know and we can go from there. You are correct in the statement of the radio still working if the ignition switch goes (in most peoples cases) since the contacts for the 'on' position are separate from the contacts used in the 'ACC' position... but it still could be the ignition switch. You said it 'looked fine' did you check for continuity with a meter? Good luck!
  21. My uninformed $0.02 is to follow the break-in procedure described by the manual (that seems to coincide with most other 'new' break in procedures). In my opinion the engineers that designed the motor and wrote the manual probably know a thing or two about their motor so I would be inclined to do as they suggest. Now that I have said that, I have read some compelling articles on doing just the opposite (ride it hard right away, etc.)... Again, my opinion on the matter.
  22. There is some limited information regarding the headset connectors on and around page 8-58 in the service manual. This may or may not be helpful (especially since you seem to be having an intermittent problem). I know that you said you have ruled out the helmets but I had noticed a similar issue on my last long haul. I had found that after a number of shoulder checks (and on/offs the bike) my left ear would go out. What I figured out was that the patch cable that plugged into my headset (physically on the helmet) would work it self loose and if I pushed it back in the problem was fixed. Since then I have tightened up the connector on the headset and have not had an issue since. To check your speakers on the bike you can use the 'select' button to adjust the balance and fade (left/right and front/back respectively) to see if you are actually getting sound out of all speakers. Then, if you have an mp3 player that you can adjust the balance on (I can on mine, but I do not know how common of a function that is) you can plug that in and adjust the balance and see if you are getting 'stereo' out at least to the speakers from AUX in. You said you checked the 'obvious' connections so just to check on this that includes: The connection under the passenger seat, connections to the speakers, 19pin connector that comes out of the amplifier unit and plugs into the bike, the two 13pin [white] connectors that come out of the amplifier unit and big black wire connectors inside the fairing? Other than that, if you still think you have a problem, you are still under warranty (on your 2006 RSV), I would let the stealer figure it out. Hope this helps Good luck!
  23. So next time I'm through Knoxville, I know what I'm going to be doing I completely agree to some of these rediculus things. ADP (a program that I used to write estimates for automotive body repair) we had to enter a pw everytime we started a new estimate. We ended up with a post-it-note stuck to the monitor of the computer with the pw. To address the question though, I have a hardcopy of a spreadsheet with my information on it - kept in my day planner (which houses most of my life anyways) and a spare copy in a safe at home. I do not keep a copy of it on my computer just in case my pooter gets stolen. If my planner gets stolen then I'm pretty much done for. Sounds like one of these one password things that folks have brought up is worth looking into though.
  24. I was simply playing the 'what if' the resistance went up since I did not know exactly what happens when one of these puppies fail. This makes sense though, overheating or whatever would melt these things together. Okay. My assumption that the current was constant was based on the way that the power, in the end, is produced. That is the induction due to the time varying magnetic field inside the wires. At this point, knowing that when one of these things fails it melts the coils together or whatever makes this assumption a moot point, so I think I will forgo the winded explanation of my assumption here. Understood. The basis of my initial thought was that if somehow there was to be an increase in resistance which I am pretty sure cannot happen. I guess this really shows my lack of practical experience with these kinds of things. Thanks a lot for going through that.
×
×
  • Create New...