-
Posts
620 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Store
Everything posted by Bobby G
-
http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54722
-
I've always kept 38 psi in the front and 40 psi in the rear, and check it weekly. I also keep 0 psi in the front forks and 25 psi in the rear shock, but I'm not sure that has any bearing on tread wear. If we are riding two up for any duration, I will up the rear shock to 35 or 40 psi. One other consideration is that I always ask Ken at Ken's Motorcycle Tires in Woodstock to order my tires for both bikes from the factory or his distributor, and not use any from current inventory, which may have an older production date on them. I want as fresh tires as possible. He's very accommodating that way.
-
I think women's volleyball is a great sport to watch, and these kids are so much more athletic and talented today then I remember them being 20 and 30 years ago. I follow my alma mater's team every week (Univ. of Dayton), and they are fantastic. Little UD is ranked 13th in the country now, and went undefeated this season in the A-10. They should be a 3 or 4 seed in the NCAA's. Congrats to your niece on her success!
-
Oh, and since I failed to mention it and someone will invariably ask, I ride solo about 85% to 90% of the time, so admittedly, that makes a difference in tire wear as well.
-
Can't wait to see my tire guy in Woodstock, who told me I'd never get more than 12,000 on my new Metzler's when I got them back in February. When I told him that I had over 15K on the first set, he said my records must have been wrong, or that I was just yankin his chain. Well, I just turned 18K on this set yesterday, and there is still some pretty good tread life left on them, maybe another 2,000 or 3,000 before it hits the wear indicator, especially on the front. I'll likely get new rubber again in February anyway, but these Marathon 880's have been great tires for my '99 RSV. I run about 60/40 between surface roads and highway, and on the surface roads, it's about 50/50 between country roads and mountain riding. Everyone has their own preference, but there is no denying the great mileage and performance I'm getting, now on two sets in a row.
-
I just plug my Gerbing heated leather gloves into the pigtail connected to the batt, and off I go. If it's really frigid out, I also have a heated vest that plugs in series with the gloves, and that keeps my body core very toasty. To keep the gloves dry if it's raining out, I slip on the waterproof covers that came with the gloves. They have an elastic opening that keeps them snugly secure on the gloves so water can't leach up into them. I flip the on/off switch when needed if it gets too warm, but I also have an adjustable dial thermostat that the wife bought me for Christmas a few years ago, but guess who gets to use that for HER heated gloves?? Women!
-
I found this in the 2nd Gen tech library (although it also applies to 1st Gen's as well): http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=501 As I'm always looking for ways to improve my '99's performance and fuel mileage, I want to give this a try, but I'm still a little confused. The mod calls for a "tee" to be installed if the AIS system has NOT been plugged (mine has not). If someone has done this, please let me know what this is referring to and how it needs to be installed. The rest of the mod seems quite basic - just a 1 1/2" to 2" hose connecting the nipples on each side once the vacuum hose and cap are removed. Don, you weighed in on this back in '06, and I was wondering if you still think this is a beneficial modification to make. Thanks.
-
No, everything stays on electrically. That's actually one of the things that I checked when it first happened on Friday morning.
-
Wow, I gotta lot of stuff to check out! Thanks for the service tips and reminders. I just wasn't thinking "electrical", but I guess anything is possible. On the shutdown's when they occurred, they were at slow speeds - once in 1st gear in "slow procession mode" on a PGR funeral escort, and the other downshifting into 2nd gear approaching a red light. That time, it fired back up, but then died again almost right away even before I moved. After another restart, it stayed running. Then it was fine the rest of the day. I will check all connections per the suggestions, and just for pure good maintenance sake, will replace the fuel filter as well. It's got 20K+ miles on it since the last change out. Thanks again.
-
Thanks for the suggestions. Going to check the fuel filter first, then check for a fouled plug (a just-in-case measure), then move on to the fuel filter. The kick stand switch is OK - just serviced that a few months ago. I'll give the gravity feed test a try. Sounds pretty easy to do.
-
Just buried my buddy Mark today, a Goldwing rider who was killed here in Marietta on Wednesday when a pick up truck changed lanes on him and forced him off the road and into a brick wall. The truck driver kept on going and is still at large. This assault on bikers just sickens me.
-
I can only figure that it's fuel related, like maybe bad gas or excess moisture in the line. It happened 3 times on Friday in an hour, then OK for a few days and about 90 miles, and then again twice earlier today, and then OK since. After it cuts off, it fires right back up again with no problem. I put about 6 oz of B-12 Chemtool in it on Friday, thinking that would help, and thought it was until it cut out again today. I'll run it again from Wednesday through the weekend pretty heavily when the weather clears (rain tomorrow and Tuesday here in the ATL) and see what happens. Gotta feeling I've got a fuel filter replacement in my future. Maybe some new plugs too. Any other thoughts, or anyone having a similar experience that you have found the solution for, I'd love to hear about it.
-
Here's the over-the-ear headphones I was talking about. Cheaper, but more painful! http://wingstuff.com/pgroup_detail/26740_IMC_Gold_Wing_Helmetless_OR_Half_Helmet
-
This is what I've found to be the best ones available for half helmets, and is what I use. I tried the cheaper over-the-ears headphone type, and they hurt after about 20 minutes. http://wingstuff.com/pgroup_detail/3145_Slide_In_Shorty_Half_Helmet_J_M_Helmet_Headset
-
Completely agree about the Show Chrome windshield. Perfect height - 13 in. I think - and 2 inches wider on each side. No buffeting at all.
- 10 replies
-
- considered
- couple
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
I loved my Mustang seat on the VTX (never had a Corbin seat), but hated the stock seat on my older RSV. I sat on a few newer RSV's with the pillow tops and really loved the feel, so I got hooked up with a buddy of mine at the factory and snaked a set for cheap, and both me and Skid love them. I was prepared to go back to the Mustang seats if needed, but we have never tired of the new pillow top seats, even in the extreme heat of summer, including a recent 1,600 trip to south Florida and back. As important as the seat is, is having a good backrest. The leather gets hot in the summer and you sweat pretty good leaning against it, but I cured that with a black padded knee brace from Walgreens that I slip over the backrest on real hot days. Looks a little goofy, but it works, and is washable. The padding provides a nice lower lumbar support as well.
-
Me and Skid, the H-D chick. 10 years, and we ain't killed each other yet!
-
Just hooked up the pigtails to the batts today on both scoots for our heated gear (Gerbin gloves and vest). Heading out early on Saturday for the mountains in GA, NC and TN, and it's supposed to be touching the 30's for awhile at least. I hate riding with cold fingers. I'm OK with everything else, but the digits have to be warm or I don't go.
-
Sorry Goose. That was a typo on my original post that I missed, and missed again when I read your reply. I really did mean 4.0, not 5.0. Thanks for the correction for everyone's benefit.
-
Goose: I was not suggesting mixing dot 5.1 with dot 3 or 4 fluid for the clutch. I was only suggesting that dot 5.1 has a higher heat tolerance and is a better choice if available. Here are some numbers to consider: Boiling point ranges: Dry boiling point/Wet boiling point ~ DOT 3: 205 °C (401 °F)/140 °C (284 °F) ~ DOT 4: 230 °C (446 °F)/155 °C (311 °F) ~ DOT 5: 260 °C (500 °F)/180 °C (356 °F) ~ DOT 5.1: 270 °C (518 °F) 190 °C (374 °F) DOT 5.1, like DOT 3 and DOT 4, is a polyethylene glycol-based fluid (contrasted with DOT 5 which is silicone-based). Polyethylene glycol fluids are hygroscopic and will absorb water from the atmosphere, which is necessary to prevent sheer and undiluted water in the braking system, which is very corrosive. So when available, DOT 5.1 is a better choice as a replacement hydrolic fluid for the RSV clutch. It's fully compatible with DOT 3 and 4, and has a higher dry and wet boiling point. Not sure if this holds true for the brakes, so I'll take your word for it that DOT 4 is the way to go. However, in the United States, all brake fluids must meet Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids. Under this standard there are three Department of Transportation (DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1. Hope this clarifies my earlier statement.
-
My fluid was dark and actually boiled when we rode to Ft. Lauderdale in early Sept. Lost all clutch control for about an hour until it cooled off. Immediately bled the line with new stuff ala the above directions, and it fixed the problem. Use DOT 5.1 if you can get some. The X.0 is OK too, but 5.1 is just a step above and provides far more heat tolerance. SAFETY EDIT: I have edited this post to catch a major safety point. The poster indicated that DOT 5.0 fluid was acceptable in these bikes - it is ABSOLUTELY NOT. The specification is for DOT4. DOT 5.0 is NOT compatible. Dot 5.1 is compatible, but NOT 5.0. Goose
-
I for one found the lower part of the Trace to be a very pretty ride. It's peaceful, lots of places to pull off to just enjoy the tranquility, and easy to get to more active locations when you need food or services. And I love the little town of Natchez. Being in that town feels like you're in a time warp to the early 20th century.