bongobobny

They're not pets, they're family!!! Sorry for your loss!

Per the above, my take would be learn how to get it out without hacking things up, that way you will be more prepared to install it which will be the exact opposite or removing it...

The "dent" factor is probably more in theory than in reality. It will effect the scavenging or "bell" effect but unless you have a perfectly tuned total exhaust system the effects will be minimal...

Needle valve not sealing??

I am ABSOLUTELY interested, and the money is not a big problem!! Tell him I have a brand new set of Jardines that they will be hooked up to! My timeline is quite flexible as my engine is still at PCW and I am contemplating powder coating my frame...

If you download the factory service manual from here (it's free) it has all the cable routing information in it...

OK, here's what I have. First is two different size Wilwood reservoirs, the smaller one is probably most suited. I*'m sure the mounting bracket could be hacked up so it would mount close to stock. This is comparing to a stock 2nd generation reservoir which would probably be too small as the 1st generation feeds 2 calipers whereas the 2nd generation only feeds 1... I don't have a stock 1st generation rear reservoir handy, but it is pretty close in size to a 2nd generation front but a little taller... Anyways, the reservoir is just setting in a drawer doing me no good, so if you want it free, just drop me a PM with your address. You're on your own for the hose. The reason yours was replaced is because it is common for the filler part of the original reservoir to get broken off trying to remove the filler cap if you twist the wrench at the wrong angle and don't secure the neck properly! Very common failure!!!

Awww, you painted it so it won't look so scary to the liberals...

Also carry a length of rubber hose to bypass the fuel pump that will reach directly from the tank to the carb bank. Should your fuel pump die you can gravity feed the carbs as long as there is around a half tank or more...

Yup, replace that line! As far as an actual reservoir goes, there is no pressure in it so anything that can hold brake fluid and can be sealed can be used. Wilwood makes several sizes and shapes that could be used. As a matter of fact I have several from different master cylinder kits left over from my rear brake project on the trike. I'll look later and get back to you if you like... PS maybe one from a 2nd Gen could be made to fit, I think I have one of those extra too...

I see somebody did the MK2 passenger floorboard mod on your bike! Stock for MK1 is just pegs... Also, those chrome covers at the end of the engine are aftermarket! PS what is that strange tail light on the fender?? Definitely not stock!

Umm, maybe because his proper screen name is Carbon_One???

Hey, tell the seller that it looks too far gone and all you want it for is a couple of parts and offer him $150. You never know! Good front fairings, even with missing tabs can fetch over $100 each!

Honda Valkyrie hands down!!

WOW!! I see there are a couple of people signed up that I haven't seen in a few years! Great!!!

those extra contacts disable the cruise control when you apply the brakes...

A member here, Skydoc_17 sells a nice upgrade kit for the fuse panel which changes the fuses from those obsolete glass fuses to the modern blade type fuses. Earl is a great guy and his stuff is very reasonable!

Ehh, no skin off my nose, I've had them sitting around for many years. The snow melted enough last week to get into the shed so it was no trouble...

There are two parts to the CLASS system, the electronic controller which is mounted on the right dash, and the compressor and solenoid assembly which is located under a black cover which is under the chrome trunk mounting rack. There are also air hoses which are the biggest expense if you can even find them. The last new one I bought cost almost $90.00...

When you do finally get around to rebuilding your front forks, I highly recommend you find a pair of MK2 forks and rebuild them instead. The reason for doing this is twofold, the MK1 calipers, 2 piston ones, which are a poor excuse for brakes, has an 86 mm spacing for the bolts whereas the MK2 uses 100 mm spacing which will allow you to upgrade to Yamaha R1/R6 4 piston calipers and will give you better braking. You will need to swap out the rotors for MK2 as well, but they are better rotors anyway! The second reason to switch is the MK2 has electric anti-dive solenoids whereas the MK1 uses braking robbing hydraulic solenoids. Hooking up the electrics is very easy, use the brake light wire (yellow) to trigger a relay that will supply power to the solenoids as long as the brakes are on, which is how they work! As far as springs go, most of us use Progressive brand springs when replacing which do have a progressive rate when being compressed. You will find lots of technical info here on the site concerning rebuilding your forks! The battery sensor wire has been addressed by other members, but here is how to eliminate that annoying flashing red light! You want to purchase a resistor with a value of anywhere between 2000 to 4000 ohms rated at 1/4 to 1/2 watt and solder one end to the sensor wire, and the other end to your "accessory" (red) line. On the original circuit, the sensor was plugged into the top of the battery and the probe went into the top area of the electrolyte (battery acid) around the middle cell of the battery. Its whole function was to alert you if your battery acid level was low. The logic circuit is looking for a voltage level of around 6 volts or so. You need the resistor to drop the voltage from 12 volts down to a lower voltage. If you tie that wire directly to 12 volts you will burn out the logic chip!! If you look at that cover between your handlebars, it looks like a Schrader valve is there for filling the front shocks. I think 17 psi is the maximum pressure you want to put in there, and as Freebird pointed out it is a very small volume of air, and anything stronger than a hand pump will put too much volume at a rapid rate resulting in quickly overpressuring your forks and blowing out your seals, which are probably shot already by looks of that one early picture which showed oil on the front rotor. The rear shock can take around 75 psi max but it too is a small volume and you should only use a hand pump. Even a bicycle tire pump will give you too much volume of air. Look around where you find the "stiffness" control (has a knob with settings 1, 2, 3, and 4) for the rear shock and you may find a Schrader valve for the rear. As far as a battery goes, an AGM will give you more cranking power, which leads us to a very common 1st Generation Venture problem, slow cranking when hot. There are two fixes to perform for this, upgrade your battery lines to a heavier gauge wire, and replace your 2 brush 1st gen starter motor with a 4 brush 2nd generation Venture ('99 - '13) starter motor. You can usually find a good used one on eBay for around $60 - $75. The combination of all 3 modifications will ensure a fast start regardless of how hot your engine is!

Waaaaay back in '83, I laid my eyes on a blonde Venture for the first time and it was love at first sight! I was riding an old Yamaha XS500, a '73 I think at the time. Unfortunately, a new motorcycle was financially out of the question. Fast forward to 2004 and an '83 Honda XS650 later and I found the deal of a lifetime, my '84 Blonde with only 8400 miles on it and fully running for $2700. Life is good!! I sincerely hope your '83 gives you as much satisfaction, thrills, and smiles as mine did!!

Here they are, far from perfect but serviceable. You could chemically strip them and paint them with high-temperature paint if desired... You may be able to hammer this dent out by clamping in a vise and use a drift tool... Both are scraped on the bottom but not mangled too bad... You will probably need new copper crush collars... Let me know and I can get them shipped out sometime next week.

Well, you could use it for parts cleaning, or start a really big bonfire...

OK, the seat is not stock, looks like MK2 with some custom work also done. Stock seat is brown with a diamond pattern. Also missing is the CLASS (Computer Leveling Air Suspension System) module on the right dash. This may be either for some strange reason it never came with it or somebody removed it. Getting the frame fixed needs to be priority 1!!!

I have a pair in fair shape but a lot better than what you have, I'll take pictures a little later and post them. If you want them, how about $25 for the pair shipped??