bongobobny

Bubber, if you show up I'll make sure I'm there!! Been waaay too long Steve!

Sort of, but the Standard dash will not have the red Cruise light on it...

There are several different hitches out there, but I will mention the Hitch Doc as a well built one. Yu will need to use a 5 wire system to 4 wire system converter, I personally like the Hoppy as it is a good one and reasonably priced. All of the wires you need for the harness is located behind the license plate inside in that chrome bulbous thing...

The only difference was the Cruise control light on the MK1. Also, there is a difference between the '83 and '84 up dash with the CMU and clock, they are different locations and configuration, and the edge connectors for the wiring harness is different...

Gone deal, just prayed!

Looks a little bit like Don, although from a few years ago by the hair. I'm going with the square glasses...

Funny thing you should mention this Carl, just the other week someone was asking me whether you were up and running again!! Can't remember who it was we were talking to because I am getting old and senile! I think it was at Big Tom's retirement party...

First question, now, if you turn the key to the first position, the accessory position, does the radio work?? Then, if when you turn the switch to the ignition position does the radio still work?? If so you have the dreaded ignition switch failure, either the switch itself or the connector for the switch, which is located under the gas tank near the switch itself. The reason I ask this and the proof of the test is that the radio operates using a different set of contacts and wires than the rest of the bike uses. This is a common failure point on 2nd Generations...

Yup! A picture is worth a thousand words there!! Also, after that many years, the grease tends to turn into something more like glue...

No, bought each bearing and race, which is almost always sold together, separate...

That's the brand I used, but not that kit. I bought mine separate. The kit package is probably less expensive. Bike Bandit is a good company to deal with.

OK, one thing to mention here, when ANYONE is working on these bikes, make sure to use JIS Phillips screwdrivers, not SAE drivers. The difference between the two is the angle of the teeth. If you use SAE on a JIS screw, you stand a good chance of stripping out the head. I mention this because when I look at your picture, the head does look a little bit rounded out. I will say that with the larger P3 and P4 heads the chance of rounding them out is less than with the P1 and P2 but it still can happen. As mentioned, a little heat helps to soften the Loctite, and use an impact driver to break them loose. Myself, when I installed my stator I switched to metric hex head bolts... Very glad you were able to get things squared away!! Hopefully, the information in this thread will be helpful to the next person!

OK, grease. From what I understand Honda makes a great Moly grease. Myself I use Mobil synthetic. Yes, you will need a press to get the bearing off and on the triple tree. I had a friend pinch the bearing in a vice and proceed to hammer the triple tree shaft to remove one. Also, do not forget to replace the races which are inside the neck of the frame. You should never reuse the old races on a new bearing as it will lead to premature failure of the new bearing. The races need to be hammered out with a "pusher" like an old screwdriver. I did have to use a Dremel tool with a cutting blade on one of my races and cut a small section out first on one of my races. Do not worry if you cut a slight groove in the neck, it will not hurt a thing. Just don't go through the entire neck! As far as the anti dives go, it is actually a very simple task to hook them up, you simply use the brake line wire, the yellow circuit, and use it to trigger a simple SPST relay to apply 12 volts to the solenoids. Each solenoid has a black and white wire, connect the black to the black and ground them, and apply the 12 volts to the two white wires. If you prefer you can just leave them disconnected because, as mentioned, with the progressive springs they have a minimal effect as opposed to the stock springs. I took the time to hook mine up pretty much because it is an easy task to do and overall I like the anti-dive concept myself, others do not. As far as the make of the bearings, no, you do not need to use expensive OEM ones, just a good quality aftermarket brand. From what I remember I used "Balls" or something like that...

To quote Steppenwolf, "I like to dream..."

Yup, that's exactly what you need to upgrade!! While it's all off, rebuild the forks, install Progressive brand springs, and replace the triple tree bearings and races... Yes, your existing triple tree is fine, but I would replace the bearings and races as I suggested mostly due to the age of them... Yes, all you really need is just the lowers, but as I mentioned, while it's off, why not rebuild and then your entire front end will be renewed.

Yup, just hit the "Member Map" button on the top, or hit the "Community" button for the drop down, and find "Member List" to find members in your area. There are quite a few in the suburban Detroit area, as mentioned Ragtop69GS, Carbon_One, Adventurer08, Ricardracing, Mirider, MiCarl, and a few more. There used to be a few more but a couple of them migrated down to Texas several years ago. You have a great group of riders in the area!

OK I'm in! Thursday morning..

Wow! Just checked ebay for you, lots of clutch covers but currently no stator covers. I remember once buying a stator cover off ebay for around $30 and the stator was still attached and good too!

For AGM's your best bet is to just remove them and store on a shelf over the winter, no tender on it...

Does this help?? http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?2482-Yamaha-Parts-Diagrams

Might be easier and cheaper, in the long run, to just find another cover on fleabay, they come up often for a cheap price...

Install new gaskets with the mufflers... Like Snyper said, do any tire replacement, fuel filter replacement, Regulator/Rectifier servicing, etc before putting the mufflers on...

^^^^ What he said...

:rotf::rotfl::banana::banana:

Yes, my feelings exactly, when it comes to firearms, leave it to the pros...