bongobobny

No, Jeff, they are welded on, pretty much all of the pigtail fuses look like that. That looks like a MDL-8 which I think were discontinued...

Hmmm, interesting question David, never had one apart or seen a blueprint either. I always assumed it was just changing the orifice size too resulting in a different hydraulic response time. Snyper the reason why they want the bike on the center stand is to remove the load on the shock so you are more accurate with the pressure. With a load on the shock that produces pressure on the air chamber meaning you have to put in more psi to counteract that pressure...

I have seen them clogged with the same type of crud that fowls up calipers, brake lines, and master cylinders, the fluid crystalizes and makes gunk plugging the hole...

Here's a start for you Brian, manufacturer Bel, model 5TTP 8-R should fill the bill... http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bel/5TTP-8-R/?qs=MvPYbBWWJyv7dEYU8B0ojg%3d%3d Have you considered piggybacking a fuse using S clips, or a fuse holder with wire leads?? There are lots of 8A 125 volt slow blow fuses out there, just seems to be limited ones in pigtail or axial lead types. I do see 250-volt versions, so unless you are limiting power distribution (Watts), 8 amps is 8 amps whether the fuse can tolerate 125 volts or 250 volts...

I've seen them in my lifetime so I know they exist, Let me see what I can find. They were known as pigtail fuses... Edit, it sort of looks like an slow blow variety

No promises but will do what I can Mama, Rod is good people!!

Correction, just bought it!

I'm probably going to buy one, I currently use a wired cassette adapter... May even use it on the 2nd gen to get my phone hooked up to the audio system!

OK yet another possibility, a clogged banjo bolt!! Wouldn't be the first time...

OK, do a little search on this site and you will find that there is an "emergency" fix for dead fuel pumps, an unfortunate fact of life with the 2nd Gen ventures. The fix is a rubber hose from the gas tank at the petcock directly to the input gas line to the carburetors and is called the "Gravity feed" modification. As long as you have at least a half tank of gas in it, the bike should start and run normally! The bike is turning over so obviously you do not have the kill switch in the wrong position! You say it will run for a short while so yes, I would temporarily rule out a spark issue, although you may need a hotter spark for better cold starting as I mentioned. So, I have to ask, how much gas is in the tank, and, are you sure your fuel petcock is in the right position?? Now, if you only have a couple of gallons od gas or less left in the tank, the petcock must be placed on the reserve position or nothing will come out of the tank. A quick test is to put the petcock on "off" and remove the feed line and install a temporary line into a jar, and then open the petcock and see if gas is flowing out at a somewhat rapid rate. It should flow out at a good steady rate, if not you may also have an issue with the petcock like a clogged screen... To address your "funnel feed" query, you do need at least a little bit of pressure to fill the float bowls. A full or partially full tank of gas will produce a downward force strong enough to fill them, but a funnel full of gas closer to the carbs may not. There is also an issue where the gas tank vent hose can get clogged not allowing air into the tank as it empties and the bike will not run because the vacuum on the top of the gas will not allow the gas to escape! If when you remove the gas cap you can hear a sucking sound, this may be the problem! Also, there is one other issue that may or may not be your problem source. There are two vent hoses for the fuel bowl to expel the air from the bowls to the atmosphere. If they are clogged, your fuel bowls will never fill up because the air is trapped and won't allow the fuel to fill the bowls! If just one of them gets clogged, the bike will only run on two cylinders, an issue that took three of us a couple of days to isolate on my bike...

OK, I am going to ask a couple of seemingly stupid questions. I ass-u-me the starter is turning over at a fairly fast speed like whir chucka chucka whir chucka chucka at a lively tempo? The reason I ask is a low battery might not have enough cranking power to turn it over fast enough, AND a somewhat weak battery will turn the bike over but the voltage may drop low enough that the ignitor will not supply spark. Now, speaking of spark, when was the last time the plugs were replaced?? These bikes like to eat plugs and should be replaced pretty much on a yearly basis. If you spend the extra money on the iridium plugs they will last longer. I highly recommend using only NGK brand plugs. The last thing to check out concerning plugs is the plug wire caps, there is a 3 piece assembly (4 counting the screw out cap) that can and will cause problems. The guts inside consist of very small discs, springs, and a resistor element. They do get corroded and cause increased resistance resulting in a weaker spark. Coils, by the way, can and do sometimes go bad! Get yourself a spark gap tester to make sure you are getting a good hot enough spark to each plug. If I recall, the spec is something like 0.109 inches of spark or something like that. How old and dirty are the air cleaners?? Air cleaners are something that does indeed require periodic changing. Also, these bikes do not run very well without the air cleaners attached. Now for the carbs themselves. For me, mine requires full choke and no throttle to start cold. Once started do not blip the throttle for about 10 seconds or it will flood out and stall. Starts and runs fine every time that way! Now, if your carbs are not synchronized properly, or if the float bowl levels are not set properly, you will have problems starting. Improperly synchronized carburetors will also cause the bike to run a little hotter and lack a little throttle response and run rough. The last thing I'm going to ask is when is the last time the valve clearance was checked and adjusted?? One of the main symptoms of improper valve clearance adjustment is hard starting! Yamaha recommends checking the valve clearance every 25,000 to 35,000 mile I think, and definitely by 50,000 miles! So to sum it up, a 2002 is a 15-year-old bike so there are a few items that may start to give you problems if not addressed. Keep in mind that these bikes will give you well over 200,000 miles of trouble free service but only if you give them the periodic maintenance they deserve. They are one of the most reliable and comfortable touring bikes out there! So welcome to the forum, I hope this information will aid you in fixing your starting issues. I am assuming that it ran OK before this issue so I am kind of doubting you need to rebuild your carburetors but I would indeed check the float levels and once you get it running again synchronize your carbs using the proper gauges. There is detailed information on this site on how to do it. We also recommend regular use of a gas additive called Seafoam which tends to keep your fuel system and your carburetors clean. Speaking of fuel, I would drain your tank and make sure you do not have any contamination in the tank. Also, stupid question, you do have the petcock turned on, don't you? Is the fuel fresh? As was mentioned, the fuel pump has a special circuit on it! When you turn the key on the pump only runs for a couple of seconds and then shuts off UNTIL the bike is running then it turns on again. If your fuel bowls are empty, like the bike sat for a week or two, then you need to cycle the fuel pump a few times to fill the bowls. This can be done by either turning the key off and on or by cycling the kill switch off and on supposedly. Each time you cycle you should hear clicking for a few seconds until the fuel bowls are full and then you may or may not hear one or two clicks. Good luck and feel free to ask about each and every step, we are here to help!

OK one more thing to mention, do NOT overfill the reservoir with brake fluid!!! As the fluid heats, it expands and needs more room! If there is no room in the reservoir the fluid will build up pressure in the whole system and act just like you are applying the brakes. It is a common mistake to fill the reservoir right up to the top thinking that more fluid means more stopping power, which is not the case. It should be filled about 2/3 to 3/4 up only...

Well, at the time, several years ago now, the only ones I could find were OEM's. No, nothing really fancy about them, they are just flat rubber band type o-rings or seals, whichever you prefer to call them. I would strongly recommend you hone the cylinders while they are disassembled and make sure your o-ring grooves are meticulously cleaned to avoid any possible leakage. Try very hard not to put any gouges in the groves as that is the number one cause of leaking seals! Use a good amount of that red "grease" that they supply with the seals to also aid in proper sealing. The last thing I will recommend is to polish the pistons as best as possible, I actually used my buffing wheel for the final finish. If you plan on using an abrasive on the pistons, make sure the scratches go around the circumference of the piston, and not front to back which would give the hydraulic fluid a direct path to flow from inside the caliper to the outside world. I usually chemically soak mine followed by an ultrasonic bath and then the buffer, the smoother the surface, the better... You might want to try Earl for the kits, he is a great guy to deal with! Othe sources may be boats.net or partzilla. I was lucky with a couple of kits and found them on ebay for a good price, but you have to literally watch daily for a month or two sometimes...

..or broken or missing pedal return spring...

Yes, they just pop out, and yes, that's what I was referring to, the kits are just the rubber seals and assembly grease, and the kits are per side, or in other words, you need 2 kits per caliper at around $25 per kit...

Thanks for that tidbit of information Puc, Becky and I were both wondering when we watched the video. Of course, we will gladly pray about it!!

Hey Russell, Bongo Bob here! So sorry to hear of your recent struggles and sincerely hope things improve for you! We all miss you, great and wise Mr. Owl!! Sending prayers your way!

(points squirt gun at monitor) Why? Why?? Why?? ​DIE!! DIE!! DIE!!

OK, I'm going to go out in left field here, but is there a possibility you have the spacer on the rear axle in the wrong position?? If that spacer is in the wrong place it will misalign the caliper with the rotor and cause binding...

You're going to discover the rebuild kits for the calipers are a minor fortune, and they do no include the "o" rings for the left and right halves...

Partzilla had them new for $217 US...

Yup! It does not just slide out, it requires a little bending, twisting, and distorting to get it out. A few curse words sometimes help...

No, the fuel system is electrically more complex than that. Part of the fuel pump relay circuitry is a system that only allows the fuel pump to run for a few seconds UNTIL it detects a running bike! Until it sees a continuous pulse from the ignition meaning the bike is running, it will not turn the fuel pump back on after the initial few seconds of running. Turning the key on starts the sequence over again. That is why every time you turn the key on the fuel pump only runs for a few seconds and stops.

Getting back to post 1, it looks like your clear coat is no longer clear! Those two brighter areas are where you have sanded right through the clear coat, which probably just peeled due to age! Myself I would just use a good primer/sealer after sanding smooth, and repaint whatever color you fancy and whatever pattern you choose! If you have never painted before, find some junk you can practice on first, and watch some good videos on painting techniques, it is not really all that hard. You do not need elaborate equipment, just a good 20+ gallon compressor, a good regulator, a moisture trap, and a gun. You are painting smaller areas as opposed to painting a car, so chances are you will not have any major flaws. I like a gravity feed sprayer myself, inexpensive and easy to clean. When you price how much a professional painter will want for the job, it may very well justify the cost of buying the equipment for yourself and then have a good compressor for other jobs as well! EDIT: As FF pointed out above, yes use a respirator or at least a mask!! And yes, as he mentioned, outside painting can and will involve insects and other foreign matter!! Best time to paint is on a calm sunny day later in the morning. Yup, remember a friend painting racing stripes on his 442 later in the day, and then we both watched a big moth do a dance on his fresh wet white paint job!!!

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