bongobobny

Or, you can hit the member map button up top as well... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/dcMembermap.php Problem being, people come and people go here, and the map and member list will list people no longer here. Where in PA are you, what city are you somewhat close to?

Man, at least a dozen or so I would like to have!! Lots of Packards, Stupidfakers, and semi-exotic foreign cars! Even an old Hudson which is dear to my heart! I would like that Gold Hawk, and that 56 Desoto, 57? Dodge, the Austin Healey just to mention a few. Would love to go to that just to take pictures and reminisce...

Yup, what Jeff said! Those scammers get shut down pronto that way...

Find yourself an electric fuel pump and get on with life Rod. Sometimes what happens with the mechanical ones is the push rod and/or the camshaft lobe gets worn so there is not enough travel for the pump to actually pump...

Hehehehehjehehe!!! I've been in Wausau in January back in the60's before Global Warming kicked in! Step outside and your nostrils immediately snap shut! If you could measure the time in microseconds you could probably determine the exact temperature...

OK if you look at the internals of your original fuse it is one of the two configurations for a slow blow fuse. One is a filament looking winding which is what you showed. the other kind looks like a two part fuse with one side of the fuse looking kind of like a metal box and the other side like a normal wire. The thermal part is at the center. A fast blow fuse is just a straight piece of wire, the more the current rating, the thicker the wire. On a power strip, it is preferred to use a slow blow fuse because most devices plugged into them will have an instantaneous surge of current when whatever is plugged into it is first turned on. If there was some sort of issue with the device the higher current would continue beyond the initial surge and blow the fuse. If you used a fast acting fuse then every time you turned on something the fuse could blow instantaneously... Now, I have to ask, what is so special about this strip?? The replacement cost may be less than the repair cost, especially when you consider time is money as well...

...and up in northern Wisconsin really cold is REALLY ​cold!!

Pucster is on to something with those pins, I have always cleaned and polished them, and have seen some in poor shape with grooves on them, etc...

No, I be thinking I'm the Joker...

Actually, the first gen shocks very rarely fail!! It's the second gen shocks that are POS!!

Continued prayers!!

We renamed him Bruce last week in chat when he was not there...

I looked at the calendar twice today and both times I counted 6 1/2 weeks until the first day of spring regardless of who did or did not see their shadow!!!

Brian, I didn't mean you should buy from that link, I was just providing you with a part number and manufacturer to aid in your search! Those end caps are welded on, you aren't going to get them off with just heat. In a pinch you can try to solder pigtails onto the ends of a normal 8 amp slow blow fuse, just make sure you do not unsolder them when you solder the leads onto the board...

I think the critter should be "ground" up into a sausage...

No, Jeff, they are welded on, pretty much all of the pigtail fuses look like that. That looks like a MDL-8 which I think were discontinued...

Hmmm, interesting question David, never had one apart or seen a blueprint either. I always assumed it was just changing the orifice size too resulting in a different hydraulic response time. Snyper the reason why they want the bike on the center stand is to remove the load on the shock so you are more accurate with the pressure. With a load on the shock that produces pressure on the air chamber meaning you have to put in more psi to counteract that pressure...

I have seen them clogged with the same type of crud that fowls up calipers, brake lines, and master cylinders, the fluid crystalizes and makes gunk plugging the hole...

Here's a start for you Brian, manufacturer Bel, model 5TTP 8-R should fill the bill... http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bel/5TTP-8-R/?qs=MvPYbBWWJyv7dEYU8B0ojg%3d%3d Have you considered piggybacking a fuse using S clips, or a fuse holder with wire leads?? There are lots of 8A 125 volt slow blow fuses out there, just seems to be limited ones in pigtail or axial lead types. I do see 250-volt versions, so unless you are limiting power distribution (Watts), 8 amps is 8 amps whether the fuse can tolerate 125 volts or 250 volts...

I've seen them in my lifetime so I know they exist, Let me see what I can find. They were known as pigtail fuses... Edit, it sort of looks like an slow blow variety

No promises but will do what I can Mama, Rod is good people!!

Correction, just bought it!

I'm probably going to buy one, I currently use a wired cassette adapter... May even use it on the 2nd gen to get my phone hooked up to the audio system!

OK yet another possibility, a clogged banjo bolt!! Wouldn't be the first time...

OK, do a little search on this site and you will find that there is an "emergency" fix for dead fuel pumps, an unfortunate fact of life with the 2nd Gen ventures. The fix is a rubber hose from the gas tank at the petcock directly to the input gas line to the carburetors and is called the "Gravity feed" modification. As long as you have at least a half tank of gas in it, the bike should start and run normally! The bike is turning over so obviously you do not have the kill switch in the wrong position! You say it will run for a short while so yes, I would temporarily rule out a spark issue, although you may need a hotter spark for better cold starting as I mentioned. So, I have to ask, how much gas is in the tank, and, are you sure your fuel petcock is in the right position?? Now, if you only have a couple of gallons od gas or less left in the tank, the petcock must be placed on the reserve position or nothing will come out of the tank. A quick test is to put the petcock on "off" and remove the feed line and install a temporary line into a jar, and then open the petcock and see if gas is flowing out at a somewhat rapid rate. It should flow out at a good steady rate, if not you may also have an issue with the petcock like a clogged screen... To address your "funnel feed" query, you do need at least a little bit of pressure to fill the float bowls. A full or partially full tank of gas will produce a downward force strong enough to fill them, but a funnel full of gas closer to the carbs may not. There is also an issue where the gas tank vent hose can get clogged not allowing air into the tank as it empties and the bike will not run because the vacuum on the top of the gas will not allow the gas to escape! If when you remove the gas cap you can hear a sucking sound, this may be the problem! Also, there is one other issue that may or may not be your problem source. There are two vent hoses for the fuel bowl to expel the air from the bowls to the atmosphere. If they are clogged, your fuel bowls will never fill up because the air is trapped and won't allow the fuel to fill the bowls! If just one of them gets clogged, the bike will only run on two cylinders, an issue that took three of us a couple of days to isolate on my bike...