bongobobny

Yup! There are lots of things I would suspect before the starter motor Brenda, the 2nd gen starters are the improved motors with 4 brushes instead of just 2 brushes on the 1st gen. (NOTE to you 1st gen owners, the 2nd gen starters bolt right in and improve your starting!) Like Jeff (FF) mentioned, the very first thing I would do is put a voltmeter across the battery and read what the voltage is with the key off, with the key on in the acc position, and then with the key in the run position. You should see around 12.8 to 13.9 volts with key off, almost the same in accessory, and on the run position maybe dropping a couple of tenths of a volt. When you hit the starter button it should drop around one volt or so. OK dumb question time, are you sure you did not accidently hit the kill switch?? Now, if when you hit the start button, if the voltage does not drop much at all or none, I would suspect the starter solenoid has bit the big one first. Once you locate it, you can try to jumper the two big contacts to see if the bike turns over then. The solenoid has a lot of current going through it when it is engaged as it directly connects the starter motor to the battery, so when you jumper it there will be sparks flying, and you need to use a fairly heavy size wire as it can become very hot very fast if it is not big enough... So, to sum it up, suspect the battery first as they do not last that many years, and the starter solenoid second... Also, when you try to start and nothing happens, when you let go of the starter switch do the lights and dash come back on??? If they do not then you may have the dreaded ignition switch failure! My guess is your battery is toast though...

Wow, that's a pretty complex question! A lot is going to depend on just what exactly you are planning to do! My first question is are you going to use the stock dash or do you have other plans? There are a lot of safety features built into the wiring of these bikes such as when and when not the starter can be engaged, etc. There is a built in safety feature that will not allow the bike to keep running should you be in gear with the kickstand down and you let out the clutch. There is circuitry to kill the ignition should you lean the bike over waaay too much (having bike horizontal rather than vertical). There are indicators to tell you if a headlight or tail light is burned out, etc etc! So, let's take things one at a time and I/we will answer you as best as we can. Myself I am very familiar with how the circuits work so feel free to PM me with a specific question or post it here. I ass-u-me you found the great 1st gen wiring diagrams located in the 1st gen library? The simplified ones that member Dingy made are very good and a tad easier to follow than the stock factory ones... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993

Wow Dan, still digesting this. Of course, I will pray for you, your family and all people concerned including you! Just remember that God is still in control regardless...

Yup! Not sure how it works in Canada but USPS NEVER sends out email!! If there was a package for you that they couldn't deliver they leave a card or slip of paper in your mailbox for you to come to the post office to pick it up...

Yup, sounds like a TCI issue to me, seeing as the TCI controls the tach and you said it started working as soon as it started running right!!

Ummm, sure you don't have a tank of water??? Sounds like my buddy's boat a long time ago, it would run fine with a full tank then quit with a half tank. Refill and it ran again...

Not happy with the outcome either but I will say that was one of the most exciting Superbowls I ever watched! It pains me to say this, but this year NE deserved the win for the comeback they pulled off. Also, I was impressed Lady Ca Ca was reasonably behaved. So now this morning I'm waiting for the reports of rioting and looting with people carrying #Notmysuperbowl signs and dressed up as beer cans and basketballs...

Hey, if we make a day of it, I'm in! Too old to camp, though, I'll stay in a hotel room...

Might work! You could also try headlight restore kits...

OK looked at a map, you are south of Williamsport. I am closer to northwest PA north of Bradford halfway up towards Buffalo...

Or, you can hit the member map button up top as well... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/dcMembermap.php Problem being, people come and people go here, and the map and member list will list people no longer here. Where in PA are you, what city are you somewhat close to?

Man, at least a dozen or so I would like to have!! Lots of Packards, Stupidfakers, and semi-exotic foreign cars! Even an old Hudson which is dear to my heart! I would like that Gold Hawk, and that 56 Desoto, 57? Dodge, the Austin Healey just to mention a few. Would love to go to that just to take pictures and reminisce...

Yup, what Jeff said! Those scammers get shut down pronto that way...

Find yourself an electric fuel pump and get on with life Rod. Sometimes what happens with the mechanical ones is the push rod and/or the camshaft lobe gets worn so there is not enough travel for the pump to actually pump...

Hehehehehjehehe!!! I've been in Wausau in January back in the60's before Global Warming kicked in! Step outside and your nostrils immediately snap shut! If you could measure the time in microseconds you could probably determine the exact temperature...

OK if you look at the internals of your original fuse it is one of the two configurations for a slow blow fuse. One is a filament looking winding which is what you showed. the other kind looks like a two part fuse with one side of the fuse looking kind of like a metal box and the other side like a normal wire. The thermal part is at the center. A fast blow fuse is just a straight piece of wire, the more the current rating, the thicker the wire. On a power strip, it is preferred to use a slow blow fuse because most devices plugged into them will have an instantaneous surge of current when whatever is plugged into it is first turned on. If there was some sort of issue with the device the higher current would continue beyond the initial surge and blow the fuse. If you used a fast acting fuse then every time you turned on something the fuse could blow instantaneously... Now, I have to ask, what is so special about this strip?? The replacement cost may be less than the repair cost, especially when you consider time is money as well...

...and up in northern Wisconsin really cold is REALLY ​cold!!

Pucster is on to something with those pins, I have always cleaned and polished them, and have seen some in poor shape with grooves on them, etc...

No, I be thinking I'm the Joker...

Actually, the first gen shocks very rarely fail!! It's the second gen shocks that are POS!!

Continued prayers!!

We renamed him Bruce last week in chat when he was not there...

I looked at the calendar twice today and both times I counted 6 1/2 weeks until the first day of spring regardless of who did or did not see their shadow!!!

Brian, I didn't mean you should buy from that link, I was just providing you with a part number and manufacturer to aid in your search! Those end caps are welded on, you aren't going to get them off with just heat. In a pinch you can try to solder pigtails onto the ends of a normal 8 amp slow blow fuse, just make sure you do not unsolder them when you solder the leads onto the board...

I think the critter should be "ground" up into a sausage...