bongobobny

Very sad! Well, if any good can come out of this situation, at least the gift of life for someone else is...

Nope! Even if the fuel bowls are filled preventing the pump from pumping anymore (you may hear one click) you should still see 12 volts for a few seconds...

They should all flutter pretty much in unison. With the air boxes off the bike will not run that well but should run. When inspecting the diaphragms hold them up to a light and look for tiny pinholes...

Other than the connector to the relay, no you can not clean the internals of the relay. With a voltmeter, measure across the fuel pump first. you should see 12 volts for about 5 seconds or less when you first turn the key on and then zero volts. If you do and no clicks with empty fuel bowls then your fuel pump itself is bad, but on 1st gens that is a little rare. If your fuel bowls are full to the top it will not click... It is possible that there is some corrosion on the relay connector considering how old the bike is...

If you decide on AGM then contact member Skydoc_17, he is a distributor for DEKA and gives you a great price delivered to your door!

Keep watching ebay, you may find a good original seat for less than that...

Hope this finally fixes your problems!! Don't you wish you would have bought a late 60's truck?!!?

You should be happy with it! Keep in mind the "ratings game" for power has really gotten out of hand these days! 500 watts is peak to peak, so divide in half for peak, then divide by 0.707 for RMS or true power, and then divide that by a fudge factor of maybe 1/2 and you will get the kind of power ratings we grew up with!! Remember you have 7 channels so divide the total power by 7 to get the actual power per channel... I have an Onkyo in the guest room that I use but am not real thrilled with. It was a good price new when I bought it several years ago, a 5.1 system...

Yup, kinda common problem...

OK, what Craig said!! The issue could be the jack in the cassette deck OR it could be the connection from the cassette deck to the head unit! By installing a Y adapter as Craig suggested that will eliminate the jack on the cassette deck as your problem. Also, the problem could really be the external connector between the cassette deck and the head unit...

OK, the switch on the handlebars you are referring to is most likely the kill switch. If the contacts are dirty it certainly WILL kill the fuel pump as it supplies the power to the fuel pump relay!! That switch is easily disassembled and the contacts can be polished up to like new status! Hopefully, you are aware that the fuel pump relay has a special circuit to it that only allows the fuel pump to run for a few seconds and then turns it off UNLESS the bike starts and is running...

Don't let Yammer Dan see that Jack, he will probably want Walter Stitt to pick it up on his next truck run to California...

AMEN Comingback down! Yes, brother Dan is aware of what you said!

What Carl said! The coils have been known to go bad, but have you serviced the innards of the spark plug cap yet?? There are 3 tiny pieces inside the boot that can and will get corroded.there is a metal plug that unscrews and inside is a spring (Pay attention here son!) a disc, and a carbon resistive element. Do a search here to find out how to do a resistance check and how to disassemble. Also, you can buy a spark tester to determine if you are getting a hot enough spark. The spark tester is a little plastic box with an adjustable gap and you can purchase these from just about any automotive supply store and only cost around ten bucks. Don't quote me on this, but I think I remember the minimum gap being something like 0.108". Check the Yamaha TM that you can find in the Read Only Technical Forum. The ignitor box usually does not fail but once again anything is possible...

The starter is mounted on the front of the engine behind/below the radiator. Yup, you need a voltmeter to see exactly what is going on! While you had the battery out you could have taken it to your local Auto Zone, etc and had it load tested for free...

Anything is possible, but the TPS is not a big failure point on these bikes. You can unplug and put an ohmmeter across it and rotate the throttle. The resistance should change smoothly and linearly...

Rats nest???

You can live quite well without the CLASS, just install Schraeder valves like the non-CLASS Ventures have...

Yup, that is the wave washer I was talking about in the PM I just sent you...

Well, Jay, overall Denon has a higher rating than the Yamaha in the "Audiophile" crowd. Denon has always been a good entry level product line for the audio snobs. Not to say that Yamaha is not an excellent brand but according to those "professional ears," they don't sound quite as accurate to them. That being said, I don't know about you but I am not a professional symphony orchestra conductor and can't quite discern subtle differences as good as they can. As far as audiophile grade audio equipment I prefer Rotel over Denon but that is a different story. Let your pocketbook be your guide, both receivers should perform satisfactorily for you...

I was going to say the same as Joe, around 4K tops, 3.5K for a somewhat fast sale...

Actually, to me, it kinda looks like a certain Canadian that rides an MM...

Dead or alive???

Hmmmm, maybe time for new fuel tank...

Heat shrink is very common and can be found in hardware stores, home improvement stores, and Radio Shack if you are lucky enough to still have one in your area. Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware all carry it... Even Wally World carries it!