bongobobny

OK, the switch on the handlebars you are referring to is most likely the kill switch. If the contacts are dirty it certainly WILL kill the fuel pump as it supplies the power to the fuel pump relay!! That switch is easily disassembled and the contacts can be polished up to like new status! Hopefully, you are aware that the fuel pump relay has a special circuit to it that only allows the fuel pump to run for a few seconds and then turns it off UNLESS the bike starts and is running...

Don't let Yammer Dan see that Jack, he will probably want Walter Stitt to pick it up on his next truck run to California...

AMEN Comingback down! Yes, brother Dan is aware of what you said!

What Carl said! The coils have been known to go bad, but have you serviced the innards of the spark plug cap yet?? There are 3 tiny pieces inside the boot that can and will get corroded.there is a metal plug that unscrews and inside is a spring (Pay attention here son!) a disc, and a carbon resistive element. Do a search here to find out how to do a resistance check and how to disassemble. Also, you can buy a spark tester to determine if you are getting a hot enough spark. The spark tester is a little plastic box with an adjustable gap and you can purchase these from just about any automotive supply store and only cost around ten bucks. Don't quote me on this, but I think I remember the minimum gap being something like 0.108". Check the Yamaha TM that you can find in the Read Only Technical Forum. The ignitor box usually does not fail but once again anything is possible...

The starter is mounted on the front of the engine behind/below the radiator. Yup, you need a voltmeter to see exactly what is going on! While you had the battery out you could have taken it to your local Auto Zone, etc and had it load tested for free...

Anything is possible, but the TPS is not a big failure point on these bikes. You can unplug and put an ohmmeter across it and rotate the throttle. The resistance should change smoothly and linearly...

Rats nest???

You can live quite well without the CLASS, just install Schraeder valves like the non-CLASS Ventures have...

Yup, that is the wave washer I was talking about in the PM I just sent you...

Well, Jay, overall Denon has a higher rating than the Yamaha in the "Audiophile" crowd. Denon has always been a good entry level product line for the audio snobs. Not to say that Yamaha is not an excellent brand but according to those "professional ears," they don't sound quite as accurate to them. That being said, I don't know about you but I am not a professional symphony orchestra conductor and can't quite discern subtle differences as good as they can. As far as audiophile grade audio equipment I prefer Rotel over Denon but that is a different story. Let your pocketbook be your guide, both receivers should perform satisfactorily for you...

I was going to say the same as Joe, around 4K tops, 3.5K for a somewhat fast sale...

Actually, to me, it kinda looks like a certain Canadian that rides an MM...

Dead or alive???

Hmmmm, maybe time for new fuel tank...

Heat shrink is very common and can be found in hardware stores, home improvement stores, and Radio Shack if you are lucky enough to still have one in your area. Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware all carry it... Even Wally World carries it!

Yup! There are lots of things I would suspect before the starter motor Brenda, the 2nd gen starters are the improved motors with 4 brushes instead of just 2 brushes on the 1st gen. (NOTE to you 1st gen owners, the 2nd gen starters bolt right in and improve your starting!) Like Jeff (FF) mentioned, the very first thing I would do is put a voltmeter across the battery and read what the voltage is with the key off, with the key on in the acc position, and then with the key in the run position. You should see around 12.8 to 13.9 volts with key off, almost the same in accessory, and on the run position maybe dropping a couple of tenths of a volt. When you hit the starter button it should drop around one volt or so. OK dumb question time, are you sure you did not accidently hit the kill switch?? Now, if when you hit the start button, if the voltage does not drop much at all or none, I would suspect the starter solenoid has bit the big one first. Once you locate it, you can try to jumper the two big contacts to see if the bike turns over then. The solenoid has a lot of current going through it when it is engaged as it directly connects the starter motor to the battery, so when you jumper it there will be sparks flying, and you need to use a fairly heavy size wire as it can become very hot very fast if it is not big enough... So, to sum it up, suspect the battery first as they do not last that many years, and the starter solenoid second... Also, when you try to start and nothing happens, when you let go of the starter switch do the lights and dash come back on??? If they do not then you may have the dreaded ignition switch failure! My guess is your battery is toast though...

Wow, that's a pretty complex question! A lot is going to depend on just what exactly you are planning to do! My first question is are you going to use the stock dash or do you have other plans? There are a lot of safety features built into the wiring of these bikes such as when and when not the starter can be engaged, etc. There is a built in safety feature that will not allow the bike to keep running should you be in gear with the kickstand down and you let out the clutch. There is circuitry to kill the ignition should you lean the bike over waaay too much (having bike horizontal rather than vertical). There are indicators to tell you if a headlight or tail light is burned out, etc etc! So, let's take things one at a time and I/we will answer you as best as we can. Myself I am very familiar with how the circuits work so feel free to PM me with a specific question or post it here. I ass-u-me you found the great 1st gen wiring diagrams located in the 1st gen library? The simplified ones that member Dingy made are very good and a tad easier to follow than the stock factory ones... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993

Wow Dan, still digesting this. Of course, I will pray for you, your family and all people concerned including you! Just remember that God is still in control regardless...

Yup! Not sure how it works in Canada but USPS NEVER sends out email!! If there was a package for you that they couldn't deliver they leave a card or slip of paper in your mailbox for you to come to the post office to pick it up...

Yup, sounds like a TCI issue to me, seeing as the TCI controls the tach and you said it started working as soon as it started running right!!

Ummm, sure you don't have a tank of water??? Sounds like my buddy's boat a long time ago, it would run fine with a full tank then quit with a half tank. Refill and it ran again...

Not happy with the outcome either but I will say that was one of the most exciting Superbowls I ever watched! It pains me to say this, but this year NE deserved the win for the comeback they pulled off. Also, I was impressed Lady Ca Ca was reasonably behaved. So now this morning I'm waiting for the reports of rioting and looting with people carrying #Notmysuperbowl signs and dressed up as beer cans and basketballs...

Hey, if we make a day of it, I'm in! Too old to camp, though, I'll stay in a hotel room...

Might work! You could also try headlight restore kits...

OK looked at a map, you are south of Williamsport. I am closer to northwest PA north of Bradford halfway up towards Buffalo...