bongobobny

Ahh, I missed the fact that is also a tachometer, so yes the R/B is probably your gray line. I mistook the dial for the speedometer and the description of the tachometer is misleading on the first page... Of course the description of the R/B wire says "Speed signal" but so does the W/B but it says "THE speed signal!!!"

Myself I liked the Silverstar Ultra, but keep in mind brighter bulbs equal shorter life...

Yes, dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor... That being said, what did you use to polish up the contacts with? Anything too abrasive and you will wear off the plating. Also, sandpaper will put microscopic grooves in the contacts making them more prone to accumulation crud in the scratches...

You didn't accidently overfill at the last oil change, did you?

Yes, behind the plastic center cover kind of in the middle...

OK, it's kind of hard to recognize that roasty toasty looking part but I'm thinking it is the remains of your Starting circuit cut-off relay and fuel pump relay assembly. It normally is mounted with a rubber hanger assembly which slides onto a metal tang. Mine fell off once and laid on top of the engine and partially melted and intermittently put a ground on the circuit which resulted in a couple of red warning lights on the dash, and an unwanted automatic start engine when the key was turned on! So yes, part of that assembly is the fuel pump relay, and the other part is part of the start circuit. Either way, it's a $100 component unless you can find one on Ebay...

Go to the 2nd Generation Tech library and then the guides and parts diagrams, and there you will find a downloadable copy of the factory service manual. I'm sure you will find the information you are looking for there... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?91-Guides-Parts-Diagrams-Etc

You have no idea of how many of us have removed and greased the driveshaft, then reassembled and couldn't figure out why the rear wheel would not roll anymore because the driveshaft missed the U-joint and jammed up in the swingarm...

Oy Vey!! Now you done opened a can of worms!! Now you have to decide what type of bulb and what brand. Then it's the question as to keep with the stock setup or go to HID or LED, and do you want to keep the stock housing or go to some kind of exotic aftermarket headlight assembly which will throw off the looks so you will have to come up with a different or modified fairing, and then you will have to decide do you want to keep it a tuxedo paint scheme or switch to something else. I'm sure this will lead to a to a heated discussion as to which bulb is the best replacement, and which is the proper way to install the replacement bulb. Then there will be a debate as to whether or not the stock wiring is ample enough to properly handle the current load and how to prevent the bulb from blowing again!!! Geez, now you're gonna tell us you have to replace the tires too...

...or a phillips screwdriver!

I read some shocking news last night on Facebook, our good friend Snaggletooth (Mike Knofler) is in the hospital! From what I understand his pacemaker is acting up, I didn't even know he had one! Anyway, his daughter posted on Facebook that he is doing OK and is resting in the hospital. So, for those that remember him, I'm sure he would appreciate prayers and good wishes. I know I have enjoyed his friendship through the years! His daughter Ashley said she may join Ventureriders to keep us updated on how he is doing. She says they hope to get him back riding this summer!

That is quite possible, I am just going by the factory wiring diagrams for the '83 versus the '84. Go to the Technical Library and view the schematics at the fuel pump. On the '83 the R/W wire goes to two places on the relay whereas on the '84 the gray line from the TCI goes to the one connection...

Just keep in mind as soon as the system reaches full pressure the pump can't pump anymore so it will stop clicking. 12 volts will still appear across the pump, though...

TRhe thing with Berrymans is with long term exposure, i.e. soaking for several days, can indeed dissolve some materials and do damage...

That is a special conductive paint that makes it work. WAAAAAY Cool, eh?!!?

So the truck is finally fixed???

If you learn one thing from this site, learn that Goose KNOWS what he is talking about!!

While looking at the schematic for the fuel pump relay on the '83 model only, I discovered that the fuel pumps on that year only do NOT shut off after the initial few seconds before the bike starts!!! That safety feature was not incorporated until the '84 on up models!!! So, if you own an '83 your fuel pump should keep clicking and clicking until the fuel bowls are up to full pressure!! I'm sure there is a reason for that safety feature being added after '84, I always assumed it was to prevent the possibility of getting a hydro lock from too much fuel pressure, or in the case of a stuck needle valve staying open. Anyway, the gray line from the number 2 coil trigger from the TCI that also feeds the tach is what restores the fuel pump relay. On the '83 there is no gray wire to the relay, just a duplicate R/W line. That relay is a special relay that has a "Time constant" circuit in it that makes it run initially for a few seconds when the bike is first turned on... Just wanted to pass this on!

Like this?? http://www.progressivesuspension.com/product/1465/fork-spring-kit You can sometimes find them cheaper on ebay, and some distributors like JP Cycles, Dennis Kirk, etc. I'm sure someone else will post a link for a good price...

OOH!! OOH!!! Mr. Carter, Mr. Carter!! I know!! Take a good look at those 4 rubber caps on the vacuum lines for when you sync the carbs!! I betcha one or more of those has cracks on them!!!

Yup, what Camos said! It could also be float level adjustment! Sure sounds like you're getting waaaaay to much gas. What is your MPG? Betcha it is probably only about 30 or so...

If you are referring to the TCI then in a word, NOPE! If you mean the CMU then Yup! All it does is monitor fuel level, oil level, the kickstand status, battery acid level, etc. There is no way, on the other hand, to get spark without the Ignition module and of course the crankcase monitoring sensor or pick up coils as well as the MAP sensor which is referred to as the "Boost Sensor. You can, however, use an aftermarket ignition module that will do the same as the stock one. One of the favorites here is the Ignitech unit which is computer programmable...

Yup, sure has been a while, Gil! Well, I should be doing MD, the International is up in the air, and there is always the WNY Regional Rally in August as well!! Lance is one of my "neighbors" on Farmville2...

IMHO 12 gauge is for the most part overkill... Larger gauge wire is only for increased current handling capacity. For the "safety" circuitry the current draw is very minimal. Increasing the wire size does absolutely nothing but take up more room. What a component draws for current is what it draws period! Larger wire diameter does NOT make it draw any more current!

Not 100% sure but I think that is just for the 2nd Gen Ventures only. The fuel pumps are not the same as 1st Gen...