bongobobny

Here ya go! I drilled the holes with the plastic bushings installed so that the grease would get right onto them! If you look at the stock piece, it almost looks like they thought about putting grease fittings there but then changed their minds...

Woah!! Glad things got found out before it was too late! Follow your Physician's orders to the letter, we want you around for a while, and I'm sure your wife does too!!!

As far as the windshield goes, I think the Pucster is wrong on that one. To my knowledge, they are the same. He's right with the rest of the stuff. EDIT: What is different is the chrome bezel under the windshield, the MK1 is a 3 piece arrangement whereas the MK2 is a wider 1 piece due to the different headlight... If you convert to the better MK2 headlight you will need to swap out the front and side fairing frames, but they bolt right up. The bracket that bolts the left side upper fairing to the right side is different as well strictly for the headlight. It's all pretty straightforward with no real issues...

To coin your phrase, WOWZY WOW WOW!!! That looks near mint!!! I will have to clear coat the backside to preserve your writing!! Mine is nice but the chrome plating is a little thin with the brass showing through and some minor pitting!! I'll PM my addy to you but there is no big rush. I would be honored to have you take Goldie for a spin as soon as it's done anytime!!! It might end up with some kind of Voyager kit on it but that could be easily removed...

Not quite, the engine covers latch differently but other than that they are compatible. If you swap out the rear subframe you can bolt those bigger bags right up! Also, the headlight bezel is different as well as the "chin" between the lower fairings...

Yup, there ya go! Now, when reassembling the swivel shackle for the shock inspect the bushings and shafts very carefully. A lot of times they get worn and can cause slop in the suspension. Many of us have drilled and tapped to install zerk fittings so those bushings can be periodically greased. If you like I can take a picture of how I did mine...

Yup, NGK plugs are what works best...

Howdy HVT!! Yes, several of us either currently own or have owned a Hannigan RSV! My '09 got converted at the Hannigan factory in '11 and absolutely love mine! Well, actually I was not entirely pleased with the rear braking so I did a complete makeover using a modified Wilwood master cylinder and made up an adapter plate to link it to the existing brake pedal, and then got rid of those Ducati calipers and went with stock Honda CRX calipers and EBC slotted and cross drilled Honda CRX rotors and now I feel I have the kind of stopping power I was looking for. I also didn't like the RPM per speed ratio of the Hannigan versus the stock RSV so rather than swapping out the gears in the rear end I increased the rear wheel diameter by around an inch which did the trick but I had to do a little trimming on the wheel wells and space the body mount out a little as well. Anyway, you've come to the right place for information as well as for fellowship!! Welcome aboard!!!

You are very welcome! Please enjoy your freedom and protect it!

So, he is doing it on a 3rd gen Venture??

The safety bolts that have to be drilled out are on the second generation Ventures... Actually, if you can find the lock number, you may be able to get a new key!

Uhhh, this thread is from 2009, I doubt he still needs it...

In some locations, they used what I call "top hat" washers or spacers. These were designed to put all of the torque on the washer itself and none on the plastic tabs. Check the exploded view to see if there is supposed to be one of them where the tab got cracked. Generally, if the hole is bigger than the bolt size there should be one of those spacers there, not a flat washer...

Meeting the Pucster in person is a truly wonderful experience!! Your life will never be complete without it...

Harley is not my cup of tea but that is a nice looking bike...

My vote would be to get your money back from the new frame and fix your frame properly! You already have it stripped so off to the welders!! That way you get to keep the original frame serial number and eliminate any registration hassles...

My personal preference is heated gear. As far as where to get the extra power, yes converting every light, especially the headlight to LED is a big power saver. As far as the carb heaters go, that is only a small saving but yes it does help. What can also help is by increasing the electrical reserve of the bike! So, how do we do that you ask?? Switch to a heavier capacity AGM battery and install a high output stator! Heated grips do very little for the rest of your body and heated seats warm your butt which helps but also does very little for the rest of your body. You might want to consider a pair of battery operated heated gloves but don't make the mistake of buying the cheaper ones as they don't work very well. You want a pair that uses the 7-volt rechargeable batteries and plan on spending at least $100 on a pair! Us PGR members up north here swear by them!!! We use them when we stand for hours outside in a flag line...

Nope, the CB has nothing to do with the intercom, or it shouldn't. Try reseating the two intercom connectors on the audio connectors... It's been a while since I drove a 1st gen so I'm trying to remember just how the system works but are you sure your mikes are good?? Isn't there a separate intercom volume control on the controller?? I sort of remember the radio volume and the intercom volume are on different circuits...

Uhh, doesn't gas plus styrofoam equal napalm??

As well as the above advice with the coil wires and coil ends, other possibilities are your TCI took a dump, and possibly one of your pickup coils went south. Follow the pickup coil wires from the engine up towards the top and you will find a connector that may be corroded...

If you used a 20K resistor that value is too high! The correct value should be 2K to 5K max...

More than I can pick up by myself...

Sure I like tube steaks, but I prefer the best, Sahlens!!!

I won two bucks!!!!!!! I didn't buy a ticket so I still have my money...

Highly unlikely but not totally out of the question I guess. When you turn the ignition on you should hear the fuel pump click for a few seconds and then stop. There is a circuit that does this. Once the bike starts, (actually once spark is detected) the fuel pump turns back on. Have you checked the float level by using a clear hose in a "U" shaped configuration? Are you sure your needle valve is indeed shutting off?? Perhaps you need to remove the vent hose and install a short hose on each carb to see which one is leaking... Even if the fuel pump was running all of the time the float needle valves will still shut off the flow of gas into the carb. You could always try bypassing the fuel pump and gravity feed your carbs directly from the tank...