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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. bongobobny
    Generally new engines require a certain period of wear to break in and seat properly. This is normal and expected. Therefore myself I avoid using synthetics, which can actually lubricate too good, for the first 10K to 20K of any engine.
  2. bongobobny
    There is probably some foreign material trapped in the meter movement that is your speedometer, stoping the meter from going past a certain point. These meter movements are very delicate and unless you know what you are doing with a Di Arsonel meter movement I would suggest replacement rather than attempting to repair...
  3. bongobobny
    Also, plastic can be properly repaired with the proper 2 part ABS plastic epoxy, and missing plastic acn be fabricated and epoxyed on. Also, the epoxy can be molded and sanded. Yes, K&N does make a filter for the 1st gen Venture and it does make a slight difference.There is also a mod drilling 4 holes into the airbox but pick up a spare airbox off of ebay just in case you don't like the results. This site has a treasure chest of information on just about anything you want to know. Just do a search on any subject and you will find lots of stuff, or start a thread and you wil get several opinions, usually al agreeing...
  4. bongobobny
    As Denden pointed out, it promotes the "Bell effect" on the intake cycle which improves ignition and gives a more thorough and efficient explosion. The Bell effect comes into play more pronounced at higher RPM's so you won't notice any effect at idle, but it does add to the top end and increases eficiency...
  5. bongobobny
    For a 1st gen Venture, 50,000 miles is just about broken in! these bikes have been known to make it well over 100,000 miles and have even made it up to 200,000 miles. They are known to be very reliable and don't have any maintenance issues any greater than any other make or model. One issue is slow starting when hot, but can be overcome easily with a battery cable upgrade and an Odessy dry cell battery. Another issue is the diaphragms on the Cards can develop pin holes resulting in poor idle, rough response, etc. This can happen with any bike, though, and is not just a Venture problem. It's an easy fix. Speaking of carbs, I strongly recommend regular use of "Seafoam" to keep the carbs clean and healthy. Your best bet is to just swing a leg over and take it for a ride if possible and decide for yourself. Word of warning, they are "Tall" bikes but they handle quite well as the center of gravity is still low. They are also very heavy going close to 900 lbs. I remember when I bought mine being surprised at the amount of efort it took to get it off the kickstand and upright. One ride around the block convinced me it was "THE" bike for me. An '88 with 50K should probably go for $3k to $4k depending on overall condition and how much aftermarket goodies, options, etc are included. You will find this site to be exceptional for technical help as well as friendship and brotherhood. We are one big FAMILY around here and extremely helpful. You may even find members close by that are more than willing to lend a helping hand if needed. Also, a sense of humor is required around here...
  6. bongobobny
    Yup, J&M is the way to go. Sierra has the cabling you need to plug into the main amp and interface with the headphones if you need that...
  7. bongobobny
    Guess I better get going on mine! My right seal is leaking anyway...
  8. bongobobny
    Glad we could uhhhhh...help!
  9. bongobobny
    Ummmm, perhaps the "Headphone" button on the intercom/radio controller is pushed in??? That will give you those exact symptoms. Don't ask how I know about that one:doh:
  10. bongobobny
    Bad ground to the tail light assembly?? Oops, no, you say that the brake lights are working. Well, check the Blue/White wire for 12 volts coming to the taillight. If not there, then check for 12 volts on the blue line coming to the running lights and into the dash. It may be the notorious bad solder joint on the dash connector that makes our fuel gauge, high beams, etc act up...
  11. bongobobny
    Squeeze is right but to answer your question yes, if the 4 ways work then the problem is most likely in the switch. The connector would be the best place to start...
  12. bongobobny
    Another trick to break loose screws besides spraying with penetrating oil is to smack the screwdriver on the end with a hammer (While inserted into the screw) to break the rust loose... Of course hit it way too hard and you also break plastic.
  13. bongobobny
    Is it definately internal? the reason I ask is your statement about the baffle, sugesting that it could be exhaust related. What might be helpful is a short piece of garden hose used as a primitave stethoscope to help pinpoint the location. I was thinking the possibility of some kind of sideplay such as waterpump impeller, starter clutch, etc...
  14. bongobobny
    Make sure radio is pushed into the fairing all the way. I had a similar problem, although the stations did not change, when I went over bumps untill I noticed my radio was not completely seated in. Firm push down fixed it...
  15. bongobobny
    Probably the impeller fractured and you probably have shrapnel rattling inside. You will need a new impeller if that is the case, and a rebuild kit which consists of the new O rings, etc that you need...
  16. bongobobny
    Jack, I'm "Ivory Soap" certain (99 44/100%) that they are the same rim with different rotors. They better be for when I finally install that font fork assembly I bought from you on my '84 I'm hoping for no surprises but I am putting the newer 4 piston calipers on along with the apropriate rotors and of course am using my original rim...
  17. bongobobny
    I had a broken one on mine, but all I did to fix it was to take a tie wrap and wrap it around the relay and rubber boot. Fixed!!
  18. bongobobny
    Same one I am using! Spent $1.99 at Autozone for a replacement socket and mounted it in the fairing and then plugged the adaptor into that. Ran the cable thru the hole under the plastic blank CB cover and installed a grommet...
  19. bongobobny
    That's what I'm using as well, an FM transmitter mounted in the cavity where the CB blank cover goes, after removing the square cover plate. Holds the transmitter and my 30G IPOD. As far as electrical draw, those transmitters only draw a fraction of an AMP so don't even worry about it.
  20. bongobobny
    Or, a pair of wires shorted together making the tuner think the preset button is on. The memory for the presets is in the tuner unit, not the control unit. That would explain why both units gave the same symptom. I guess I misunderstood your first post a little...
  21. bongobobny
    OK here's what works. 1. Battery cable upgrade to larger wires. Squidley's set is very nice. Also. when installing the ground wire to the engine, shine up the area of contact. 2. Odessy dry battery. Has more cranking amps. The difference surprised even a sceptic like me. 3. A 4 brush starter such as out of a V-Max. I haven't done that yet but several people have, and say that it definately helps. Or, just don't start it when it's warmed up...
  22. bongobobny
    You are correct, the dash units are nothing more than switches and displays. The electronics for the radio are bolted on to the amp. Most likely one of the "preset" switches is stuck "on" and convincing the tuner that you want that particular station. An ohmeter across the contacts, with the unit disconnected from the electronics, should prove this. The last tuner control unit I had required 5 switches to get working, but they were all the exact opposite, permanently open...
  23. bongobobny
    Yes, I am well aware how much they end up going for. I have seen them go for less than 200. There was a set of supposed OEM's for '83 to '85 a few days ago that went for around $150 but did not mount the way the Marklands do...
  24. bongobobny
    What color?? I have a chocolate brown one in fair shape. They usually are pretty inexpensive on ebay...
  25. bongobobny
    That's a lot cheaper than what they have been going for on ebay lately... You can buy a 2 part plastic epoxy specifically for working on ABS plastic at lots of places like Wally World, Automotive stores, etc. Devcon works veryt well as does many other brands. Just read the package to make sure it is for plastic repair. It comes in a dual syringe, usually black colored. If you have some spare plastic around, you can trim a piece roughly into the size/shape needed and "weld" it on with this stuff. It will fill holes, and can be sanded and shaped as well. Works much much better than super glue. Plastex is probably the best system out there...
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