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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. bongobobny
    Another trick to break loose screws besides spraying with penetrating oil is to smack the screwdriver on the end with a hammer (While inserted into the screw) to break the rust loose... Of course hit it way too hard and you also break plastic.
  2. bongobobny
    Is it definately internal? the reason I ask is your statement about the baffle, sugesting that it could be exhaust related. What might be helpful is a short piece of garden hose used as a primitave stethoscope to help pinpoint the location. I was thinking the possibility of some kind of sideplay such as waterpump impeller, starter clutch, etc...
  3. bongobobny
    Make sure radio is pushed into the fairing all the way. I had a similar problem, although the stations did not change, when I went over bumps untill I noticed my radio was not completely seated in. Firm push down fixed it...
  4. bongobobny
    Probably the impeller fractured and you probably have shrapnel rattling inside. You will need a new impeller if that is the case, and a rebuild kit which consists of the new O rings, etc that you need...
  5. bongobobny
    Jack, I'm "Ivory Soap" certain (99 44/100%) that they are the same rim with different rotors. They better be for when I finally install that font fork assembly I bought from you on my '84 I'm hoping for no surprises but I am putting the newer 4 piston calipers on along with the apropriate rotors and of course am using my original rim...
  6. bongobobny
    I had a broken one on mine, but all I did to fix it was to take a tie wrap and wrap it around the relay and rubber boot. Fixed!!
  7. bongobobny
    Same one I am using! Spent $1.99 at Autozone for a replacement socket and mounted it in the fairing and then plugged the adaptor into that. Ran the cable thru the hole under the plastic blank CB cover and installed a grommet...
  8. bongobobny
    That's what I'm using as well, an FM transmitter mounted in the cavity where the CB blank cover goes, after removing the square cover plate. Holds the transmitter and my 30G IPOD. As far as electrical draw, those transmitters only draw a fraction of an AMP so don't even worry about it.
  9. bongobobny
    Or, a pair of wires shorted together making the tuner think the preset button is on. The memory for the presets is in the tuner unit, not the control unit. That would explain why both units gave the same symptom. I guess I misunderstood your first post a little...
  10. bongobobny
    OK here's what works. 1. Battery cable upgrade to larger wires. Squidley's set is very nice. Also. when installing the ground wire to the engine, shine up the area of contact. 2. Odessy dry battery. Has more cranking amps. The difference surprised even a sceptic like me. 3. A 4 brush starter such as out of a V-Max. I haven't done that yet but several people have, and say that it definately helps. Or, just don't start it when it's warmed up...
  11. bongobobny
    You are correct, the dash units are nothing more than switches and displays. The electronics for the radio are bolted on to the amp. Most likely one of the "preset" switches is stuck "on" and convincing the tuner that you want that particular station. An ohmeter across the contacts, with the unit disconnected from the electronics, should prove this. The last tuner control unit I had required 5 switches to get working, but they were all the exact opposite, permanently open...
  12. bongobobny
    Yes, I am well aware how much they end up going for. I have seen them go for less than 200. There was a set of supposed OEM's for '83 to '85 a few days ago that went for around $150 but did not mount the way the Marklands do...
  13. bongobobny
    What color?? I have a chocolate brown one in fair shape. They usually are pretty inexpensive on ebay...
  14. bongobobny
    That's a lot cheaper than what they have been going for on ebay lately... You can buy a 2 part plastic epoxy specifically for working on ABS plastic at lots of places like Wally World, Automotive stores, etc. Devcon works veryt well as does many other brands. Just read the package to make sure it is for plastic repair. It comes in a dual syringe, usually black colored. If you have some spare plastic around, you can trim a piece roughly into the size/shape needed and "weld" it on with this stuff. It will fill holes, and can be sanded and shaped as well. Works much much better than super glue. Plastex is probably the best system out there...
  15. bongobobny
    I quit bidding after $100...
  16. bongobobny
    For that kind of money buy a K&N off of ebay. Increased performance, and lasts forever as long as you clean it periodically...
  17. bongobobny
    Try heating with a hair dryer but do not keep heat on one spot continually. Wave the hair dryer while heating to avoid melting anything or scortching paint. The idea is to heat the glue up...
  18. bongobobny
    Allan, we have never met but it doesn't matter as we are all family here. I am very saddened by the news and she was still young. Sometimes things do not make sense but remember that God has a reason and purpose for everything. Just keep trusting in Him and look to Him for comfort and guidance. We serve a loving and merciful God, and I know that is rather hard to focus on right now, but put your complete focus on Him and remember that you will be together again when that time comes. For now, one day at a time. My heart, and prayers, go out to you
  19. bongobobny
    PM sent
  20. bongobobny
    Yes, I may be able to help you. Mine was missing one station preset button, and Charlie graciously sent me a scrap cover with several buttons on it. So give me the colors you need (red, grey, black) and pm me your address and I will see what I can do for you!
  21. bongobobny
    I've been using the gold trim a lot to highlight my ride. My avatar should give you the idea, or check out my gallery...
  22. bongobobny
    Ditto!! Leaves + moisture = loss of traction...
  23. bongobobny

    Oil

    bongobobny replied to a topic in General Tech Talk

    The proper level should be about halfway up with a COLD emgine that has sat fer several hours at least. With a warm engine there is probably half a pint still clinging higher up in the heads. Even though the oil is warm it still takes a while to drain down completely. Too much oil and there can be a lot of blowby past the rings due to not a sufficient amount of air area for instantaneous positive crankcase pressure. Keep in mind air soes compress creating a positive pressure, whereas oil does not compress...
  24. bongobobny
    Presently using Chevron Delo 400 because a motorcycle oil website recommended it. Next year may start using synthetic possibly Shell Rotella synthetic as it too was highly recommended...
  25. bongobobny
    OK Wise Old Owl, you are right, sort of. It indeed does state minimum Research Octane 91, however it also says Grade: Regular LEADED! You remember the old leaded gas, don't you?? Lead was added to fuel as an antiknock compound. So, getting back to my original statement, "As long as you are not getting any spark knock..." Mine rattled under load going uphill on middle premium but did not with premium. And yes, my timing is just about exactly on 5 degrees BTDC.
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