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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. bongobobny
    Seems to me that a few members were dissatisfied with them due to blowouts about a year or so back... Or was that on the "Other" site??
  2. bongobobny
    You may also want to check with your local Stealership and see if they can come up with a key using the VIN or something like that. I know it's been done before on other models as long as you can prove ownership...
  3. bongobobny
    My nest set will probably be Avon's. Soooo many people recommend them! However I am running the Elite II's and so far so good...
  4. bongobobny
    Your computer monitor may be suffering from the common "Broken Solder Connection" syndrome. What you want to do is remove your dash and resolder all the connections on the pins of the connector. This may fix all those problems. A;sp, check for corrosion on the connector and clean as best as possible and add a little dielectric grease when reconnecting.
  5. bongobobny
    I have a set of Carbs I bought cheap on ebay in need of rebuilding myself... As far as any starting issue, well the first thing to do is put in larger battery cables. Member Squidley sells some upgraded cables in a kit that makes a difference fer sure, especially when the bike is hot. A second modification is springing the money for an "Odessy" dry cell (lithium I believe) battery that has a lot more cranking power. These go for around $100 but it makes a huge difference, and will be the last battery you will have to buy for it. Do a search on this to find a link to a few online sources. The Recommended model is the 680MJ (MJ for metal Jacket) but it is the same as thre 680 without the jacket, which is quite cheaper than the MJ. I am super happy with mine, as are several members. The last mod is to switch to a 4 brush starter which is a vmax starter and also the 2nd gen starter I think. Haven't done that mod but have done the cables and Odessy battery. To give you an example of the difference, when my clutch went out at the foot of the 219 in Springville, I started in 1st gear 3 times in a row with no problem, something that I never would have been able to do before the mods. There was a recent thread about starting, but in general I just choke it and push the button. I don't dare blip the throttle for at least 15 seconds or so, but I'm suspecting with the new plugs and wires that will change. I haven't touched my carbs since I bought it either 2 years ago. Even before the electrical mods, it always started, even after being stored for several months...
  6. bongobobny
    Wording for Oriental provided translation required when this is reading...
  7. bongobobny
    See my other thread... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12150
  8. bongobobny
    ...Extra week of riding time?? Around here in the Buffalo area that's almost half of our riding season!!:banana: Yes, that sounds typical to have problems like that with a combination of bad gas and rubber drying out from lack of use. Indeed make sure they flushed your gas tank, and put some Gas Stabilizer in the tank. I would also highly recommend a couple of good Seafoam treatments followed by a set of new plugs afterword as the Seafoam treatment has been known to foul plugs. You should be running fine after that! Enjoy and we will get together some time soon!
  9. bongobobny
    If you end up replacing lines, you may want to consider going the extra step and rebuild your slave cylander as well. Keep in mind how old the rubber is... I'm presently in the middle of the same job myself. Not exceptionally difficult to do but getting the slave out requires a little coaxing. Right now I'm waiting on my new line to be delivered hopefully Friday.
  10. bongobobny
    Replace lights with LED's after checking ground...
  11. bongobobny
    Your front end is similar to what I would like to do with my project '85 VR. I want to extend the front tire about a foot forward. You already answered my question about handling. Did you do your own welding ur did a fabricating shop dso it? I was considering lowering the yoke about an inch as well as increasing the angle a few degrees if and when I do mine...
  12. bongobobny
    OK thanks for the responses! The bike is on the centerstand. I had no real problem breaking the 2 screws loose with my long handled allen wrench and a crescent wrench. I had more problem with the bolts on the cover. The guy before me painted the covers black to hide the yellowed/chipping clearcoat. I actualy broke a cheap allen wrench in two (Actually a couple of them) with those screws. Finally broke down and got my good Craftsman set out of the trunk of the scoot. The slave is still in the engine waiting on the new hose to come in this Friday. Figured on using a set of slip joint pliers to grasp and wiggle the slave out when the time comes. The manual recommends disconnecting the hose firstr. I see where it is a great idea to move the stator wires out of the way too!! Haven't changed the oil since last summer so it's a good a time as any to change! Also doing new plugs and wires while I'm at it... Oh, yeah, also a good time to replace my defective sidestand switch ans remove the jumper on the connector!
  13. bongobobny
    OK I started on the rebuild of my Clutch Slave Cylander, and following the instructions in my service manual, it says remove the middle gear case cover and then says "NOTE: ...be sure oil does not leak out of the case." Well. oil did leak out of the case, about a half a cup, give or take. Well, the manual doesn't say what to doif it does leak. So, what is it trying to tel me?? Careful, oil may leak out so replace it, or if it leaks it means you have a bad gasket or seal somewhere?? Any ideas???
  14. bongobobny
    Yes, I am about 40 miles south of you in Arcade! Just read this thead. By any chance is the dealer located on Main St. in Clarence?? Got mixed feelings about good old Don. I do my own work whenever possible. My local dealer is Pioneer Motorsports around the corner from me and their work seems satisfactory but they are a little high priced IMHO. Anyways, hope things work out for you and if you need any spare parts, I have a lot, including a whole spare bike which I may or may not convert into a chopper in the future. I'll be glad to offer any advice and help when I can. There are a coupe of other 1st gen owners closer to you in Clarence, Amherst, West Seneca, and Niagara Falls as well. Just go to the member list, and look by state. You may even find someone almost next door to you
  15. bongobobny
    Generally new engines require a certain period of wear to break in and seat properly. This is normal and expected. Therefore myself I avoid using synthetics, which can actually lubricate too good, for the first 10K to 20K of any engine.
  16. bongobobny
    There is probably some foreign material trapped in the meter movement that is your speedometer, stoping the meter from going past a certain point. These meter movements are very delicate and unless you know what you are doing with a Di Arsonel meter movement I would suggest replacement rather than attempting to repair...
  17. bongobobny
    Also, plastic can be properly repaired with the proper 2 part ABS plastic epoxy, and missing plastic acn be fabricated and epoxyed on. Also, the epoxy can be molded and sanded. Yes, K&N does make a filter for the 1st gen Venture and it does make a slight difference.There is also a mod drilling 4 holes into the airbox but pick up a spare airbox off of ebay just in case you don't like the results. This site has a treasure chest of information on just about anything you want to know. Just do a search on any subject and you will find lots of stuff, or start a thread and you wil get several opinions, usually al agreeing...
  18. bongobobny
    As Denden pointed out, it promotes the "Bell effect" on the intake cycle which improves ignition and gives a more thorough and efficient explosion. The Bell effect comes into play more pronounced at higher RPM's so you won't notice any effect at idle, but it does add to the top end and increases eficiency...
  19. bongobobny
    For a 1st gen Venture, 50,000 miles is just about broken in! these bikes have been known to make it well over 100,000 miles and have even made it up to 200,000 miles. They are known to be very reliable and don't have any maintenance issues any greater than any other make or model. One issue is slow starting when hot, but can be overcome easily with a battery cable upgrade and an Odessy dry cell battery. Another issue is the diaphragms on the Cards can develop pin holes resulting in poor idle, rough response, etc. This can happen with any bike, though, and is not just a Venture problem. It's an easy fix. Speaking of carbs, I strongly recommend regular use of "Seafoam" to keep the carbs clean and healthy. Your best bet is to just swing a leg over and take it for a ride if possible and decide for yourself. Word of warning, they are "Tall" bikes but they handle quite well as the center of gravity is still low. They are also very heavy going close to 900 lbs. I remember when I bought mine being surprised at the amount of efort it took to get it off the kickstand and upright. One ride around the block convinced me it was "THE" bike for me. An '88 with 50K should probably go for $3k to $4k depending on overall condition and how much aftermarket goodies, options, etc are included. You will find this site to be exceptional for technical help as well as friendship and brotherhood. We are one big FAMILY around here and extremely helpful. You may even find members close by that are more than willing to lend a helping hand if needed. Also, a sense of humor is required around here...
  20. bongobobny
    Yup, J&M is the way to go. Sierra has the cabling you need to plug into the main amp and interface with the headphones if you need that...
  21. bongobobny
    Guess I better get going on mine! My right seal is leaking anyway...
  22. bongobobny
    Glad we could uhhhhh...help!
  23. bongobobny
    Ummmm, perhaps the "Headphone" button on the intercom/radio controller is pushed in??? That will give you those exact symptoms. Don't ask how I know about that one:doh:
  24. bongobobny
    Bad ground to the tail light assembly?? Oops, no, you say that the brake lights are working. Well, check the Blue/White wire for 12 volts coming to the taillight. If not there, then check for 12 volts on the blue line coming to the running lights and into the dash. It may be the notorious bad solder joint on the dash connector that makes our fuel gauge, high beams, etc act up...
  25. bongobobny
    Squeeze is right but to answer your question yes, if the 4 ways work then the problem is most likely in the switch. The connector would be the best place to start...
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