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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. bongobobny
    Vermincelli; Oh, good, Jimbo answered the question for you! I haven't installed yet and am not planning on doing so until next spring when I completely flush the cooling system and replace the water pump. I really haven't had any cooling system issues yet, but decided to "overhaul" the system next spring to keep things that way. Sooo, couldn't give you a comparison either! The swap is well documented by the dealer and well presented. I have no regrets at all buying...
  2. bongobobny
    Yes, the whole idea of it is to coat the metal and prevent corrosion. The tightness of the two connected surfaces scrapes off the grease where they actually mate, and leave a bead of grease around it, making it somewhat waterproof and corrosion proof. It is NOT conductive, and therefore the metal must be clean and contamination free prior to applying the dielectric grease. Yes, a little goes a long way and any excess should be wiped off! If the two metal surfaces do not rub and scrape the grease of, you have some serious problems with the conector anyway and the grease won't do a thing...
  3. bongobobny
    Any time, brother, any time!! We share a lot more in common than you think!! Perhaps Marcarl and wizard 765 and us can meet for dinner in Ft Erie or St Catharines or something as well!
  4. bongobobny
    ...And matched plugs to boot!!
  5. bongobobny
    Fantastic info!! You are welcome to come down and supervise when I redo the replacement later 1st gen front forks I have for my scoot!!! Ask Wizard 765, we feed you well!
  6. bongobobny
    Although I haven't checked mine, 14.6 volts is a normal voltage for charging in most automotive charging systems. To adequately charge, you want to be over 12 volts...
  7. bongobobny
    Yes, Mike, take the 2 screws off and remove your chrome cover and you will find it towards the front of your middle engine cover. The top of the rubber cover goes across, not up/down. It sorta snapsm into place...
  8. bongobobny
    Are you sure it is not coming out of carb overfill tube? If it is, betcha you have a stuck needle valve that has a piece of crud in it...
  9. bongobobny
    DOT 4?? Hmmm, seems to me mine said use nothing but DOT3 but you are newer than me. Anyway, I rebuilt master and slave, and replaced both rubber hoses. Just filled, pumped it up, and gravity bled and that was that. Used synthetic DOT3. Feels like a new clutch...
  10. bongobobny
    Plan A could very easily go from $ to $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ Don't ask how I know...
  11. bongobobny
    Bummer!!! Would love to see pictures with pieces of grass stuck to clear coat:stirthepot: I don't have any spare except what's on the '85 but I'm probably going to need them as it looks more and more like I'm gonna turn it into a running bike again. I'm sure someone has one, if not they go fairly cheap on ebay...
  12. bongobobny
    Yup!! Front fender is one in the same... Sean is an excellent dealer. Those front chrome pieces are sought after. What is even more expensive and rare is the chrome rear piece for the front fender! I lucked out and bought one of those attached to a gold fender for around what that piece is going for right now. Unfortunately, had the black plastic rear piece...
  13. bongobobny
    You may also be missing a rubber foot or two on the bottom of the trunk causing the vibrations...
  14. bongobobny
    Hmmmm. Pull the air cleaner and watch what is happening with the butterfly valves as you blip it. Waste a spray can of carb cleaner thru the throats while running. May be gummed up throttle plates or sliders...
  15. bongobobny
    I agree totally with Squeeze, who is also one smart Kraut!! There is a wealth of info on this site and one big family of caring and helpful people to boot! I too fell in love with the 1st gens when they first came out but was unable to afford one. Think I was riding a '74 Yamaha XS500 at the time...
  16. bongobobny
    Pretty much if a stator goes, it goes period. There is a connection that can be problematic where the stator wires connect together. Contact Dragonrider Lewis as he is aware of the problem and can give you details. Now moreso I am suspecting battery cables. Yes, I know who FreeWC is. I've always considered them to be a bike graveyard more than anything else. Don't give up on the bike because, as you have already discovered, when they are running, they are beautiful!! You just are experiencing some kinks that need to be ironed out one at a time. These bikes generally are good for well over 100,000 miles and are generally very dependable. I wouldn't part with Goldie for the world, even if Becky did say I could buy a new one...
  17. bongobobny
    It could be that your stator is on the way out. The stator is the bike's equivilant of an alternator. Do a search on the subject as to how to test the output. You will need a voltmeter that reads AC voltage, which most do. OK is the battery indeed a "NEW" battery or one that the dealer claimed was new?? You may also want to check all of the battery cable connections and clean up the contacts as well. Pay special attention to the negative cable especially where it attaches to the engine. It may be time to replace those cables with some thicker guage cables...
  18. bongobobny
    Aint THAT the truth!!!
  19. bongobobny
    With the rear brake system, there is a proportioning valve that can get gummed up and cause the system to malfunction. As far as the carbs, Yes, seafoam seems to work best, but the real problem may be pinholes in the rubber diaphragms which is a common situation. These diaphragms are getting very costly and go for around $60 on up apiece! The '83s were also prone to frames cracking. Not a common problem but significant to the '83 model. Other problems are hard starting when hot, due usually to the poor battery cables. Replacing with larger diameter wires helps, and using an Odessy Dry cell battery definately makes a huge difference. Just keep posting whenever a problem comes up and you will get lots of expert advice here! Also do a search for each topic and check out the technical info section for lots of good advice...
  20. bongobobny
    I agree with the battery thing! Sure sounds like your battery went south. I highly recommend spending the extra bucks and buy an Odessy battery!
  21. bongobobny
    Ahhhhh!! I carefully re-read your first post and you say you can't tune in anything even when the engine is NOT running... Oops, my bad! It just may be atmospheric conditions this time of year. Did it work OK within the last few weeks?? Does the radio in your cage work ok? Check for corrosion on all the antenna contacts, especially where it plugs into the chasis in the fairing... But if FM is OK I'm thinking it's not an antenna problem.
  22. bongobobny
    May be time for new spart plug wires and resistor caps...
  23. bongobobny
    Nathan, Valu has the exact same screw that you need for the cover if you get the old ones off, however they are not rust proof. You ned to replace with stainless steel screws. I haven't had a chance to check out Lowes or Home Depot yet. What you may want to try is a good #2 phillips screwdriver and give the screwdriver a couple of really good smacks with a hammer to really drive the point into the metal, and then turn while pushing down. This may or may not work depending on just how bad the heads are stripped out. Worst case senerio I have spare clutch and brake master cylanders that probably could use rebuilding that I will sell you reasonable. The rebuild kits go for around $20 and are not that difficult to do. You need a good set of retaining ring pliers from Sears (I have the set needed) to get the guts out. I should probably get about around $20 - $25 apiece for the master cylander...
  24. bongobobny
    Also great that something you bought off ebay was good! Probably the next step should be a strong dose of seafoam. I would put older plugs in for that, as the seafoam treatment could foul your new plugs...
  25. bongobobny
    Yes I did, but haven't had time to answer yet. Will do soon!
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