bongobobny

No difference between the MK1 and MK2. There are several aftermarket screens out there! I'm not familiar with the ones in your link...

Silver T, hasn't anybody ever told you "Everything you believe is wrong!"

:icon_lurker:

Yup, it was Gil you speak of! His tuxedo Venture sure is a beut! I agree with Jay, we want bigger caliper...

Just yet another incident in a long list of things that are proof that this site is more than a website, it is a FAMILY!!!

If Honda would have still been building the Valkyrie in 2009 I would have bought one of them instead of the RSV...

I prefer to think that my clutch sings because it's happy!!! Isn't the Roadie a belt drive?? There is an interesting discussion going on in the Watering hole about shaft vs belt drive and the pro's and con's of each, one of the pro's for belt drive is less loss of torque coming off the line... Somewhere on the site is indeed a list of what oil filters will fit, but be warned that a couple of the manufacturers have changed the style of the mating surfaces from concave to convex and will no longer work. Purolator and Bosch (what I generally use) have done this. Yup, use the member Carbon_One's lift adapter, it beats placing pieces of wood under the appropriate spots! You may want to contact member Rick Butler for his seat modification! Another alternative is to find a seat from an older Venture as the pillow top seats are only on the newer 2nd Generation Ventures whereas the older ones have a much stiffer seat, but even those need the Butler "Butt" modification for riding comfort! You may want to consider an aftermarket backrest, and a set of handlebar risers to pull the handlebars back a tad as it is a known fact the stock positioning can cause rider discomfort! Welcome aboard!!!

OK, first question, does your Neutral light work?? This is an important question to prove that electricity is getting past the signal fuse. The next thing to look at would be either of the two brake light switches and measure with a voltmeter for 12 volts on the Green/Yellow line with the brakes applied. The G/Y line becomes the yellow line after the brake switches and goes to the CMU. If the switch is passing voltage then your next place to look at will be the CMU but before that find the connector for the tail/brake light assembly. This is a 3 wire connector with a black, blue, and yellow wire coming from the assembly. The other side of the connector has a black, blue and white, and yellow and black wire on it. With the brakes applied look for 12 volts on the yellow wire just to prove that voltage is indeed getting that far, there is a remote possibility that both bulbs have their brake light filaments burnt out...

It's going to be interesting to see what the motivation was behind this incident! In away I am glad the suspect was captured alive...

Hmmm, yes, I am thinking your design does need a little help Don! My first two impressions of the image were a pioneer lady with a squared off chin, and then an overhead view of a toilet with dual flushing handles! Sorry, Boss, don't mean to insult you or your abilities, just offering my perspective...

It's pre-op meetings with the anesthesiologist, etc. for upcoming toe surgery on July 3rd. My toe bone is dislocated and rubbing the bottom of my foot which caused a foot ulcer last summer. The toe has been dislocated for many years now caused by stepping on a roofing nail and not knowing it until I took my shoe off hours later! Anyway, they are going to do a little trimming of the bone as an outpatient procedure, and I will be pretty much immobile for a few weeks! So, if anybody is in the Western New York area in July, stop on by and keep me company...

I usually use a scribe or a small flat bit screwdriver to force them back into the holes and a pair of pliers to pull them the rest of the way through...

Hmmm, the price of the slaves has gone up a little, they used to be around $60 - $65 a while ago. Your best bet is to replace, not rebuild them as rebuilt ones often do not last long or leak from day one. It depends on how well you hone the cylinder prior to replacing the rubbers. If you have to hone a lot off to eliminate the pitting and corrosion it will probably leak. To me, the price you pay for a new one is worth it in the long run, and we are not talking a major capital investment even at $85 anyways, especially over a potentially critical part...

Yup!! You have to squeeze the two tangs together and push them out from the back...

Ummm, that depends Dan. I guess you could do it in 10 minutes if you can get to the connector easily, or an hour or so if you take the upper fairings off, etc to make sure you have plenty of room to access it!

Yup, our yard work is now caught up to about May 15th I believe, and the battery for the scoot is still on the bench...

I, unfortunately, have a DR. appointment on the 23rd or otherwise, I would have met up with you there Chuck...

Yup Dan, yours sounds like a stuck starter switch! Try vigorously flicking it a few times and see if it fixes itself. Otherwise, unplug it and see if your problem goes away. They are not that difficult to disassemble and fix...

gaj I had the same thing happen to me, but he states he disconnected the ignition which to me points more to welded main contacts on the starter solenoid. If the main contacts were shorted there would be a direct connection from the battery to the starter motor regardless if the ignition was on or off...

From what I remember, there is supposed to be some spacers behind the screws, but keep in mind I'm old and haven't done a thing cosmetically with my 1st gen since '09...

Hey, uhh, speaking of old, you younger ones do realize that if it weren't for some of us more seasoned ones here, you wouldn't have dirt because we were around to invent it?!!?

Are you done yet??

Here are some things for you folks to read... https://www.google.com/#q=can+different+oil+weights+be+mixed

Yup, around 40 give or take...

Hope that fixes you up Vid! A word to the wise with male/female connectors like that, the female should always carry the source voltage and the male always the load so if they do come unplugged, it is less likely for the 12 volts to get shorted to ground...