bongobobny

There's your problem, and I'll bet it is not properly wired as well making your brake lights not work...

For the cruise control option, the brake switch should have 4 wires. I'll almost betcha dollars to donuts you're going to find the switch is not properly mounted like a broken tab that locks it into place...

If your clutch slave cylinder is leaking, which from what you described with the low fluid I bet it is, then you will be better served replacing the slave rather than trying to rebuild it!! The replacement units are not that expensive, and through the experience of many here rebuilding does not work out very good and they leak again after a short while...

What cruise line are you on? We took the inner passageway Alaskan cruise in 2006 with Holland America on the Vooldendam and loved the cruise!!

OK, all good questions, beer or no beer! As far as fuel economy, yes float level adjustments can affect fuel economy, but driving habits can also affect it as well! If you are used to a big V-Twin, chances are you are not revving the engine high enough! These 4 cylinder engines love their RPM's and need to be kept in the 3500 to 6500 RPM range for better fuel economy due to that is where the power band is! You should never be in 5th at any speed below around 55 to 60 MPH! These carbs are very complex and several things can go wrong and yet the bike will still run! There is a very good DVD out there concerning the proper way to rebuild and set up the carbs. It is geared towards the VMax carbs but is just as appropriate for the Venture carbs as well! Here's a link... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?119186-Bought-Carb-Rebuild-Video-by-Damon-Ferraiuolo&p=1004501#post1004501 As far as the vacuum advance or boost sensor as Yamaha calls it, with no vacuum you should see around 2.5 volts with no vacuum, and it should vary from 0 volts to 5 volts depending on whether a positive or negative pressure is applied. See the Service Manual available for free on this site. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals Also, make sure your Ignition Module is the proper one for the '83 model as that module is specific for only that year. If the P.O. switched modules to a later year, the vacuum advance will be 180 degrees out of phase as with the 83 they used carb vacuum, and the rest uses manifold vacuum. Speaking of vacuum, if you have any leaks that will cause your mileage to go south. The last thing to mention is the diaphragms on the carburetors. Any pinholes at all can and will affect mileage. Watch your plungers for doing the proper "dance" when revving up the engine...

Soooo, I take it you needed a change of underwear when you got home???

I'm just wondering, will that E6000 be flexible enough so that the diaphragm still correctly responds as it should, or will it make it too stiff or have a poor response to the normal pressures they see...

Pucster, you forgot one of the most important fixes for whine coming from the rear!!! Next time leave her home!!!

First Gen is '83 to '93. They are separated by the MK1 which is the 1200cc '83 to '85, and the MK2 which is the 1300cc made from '86 to '93. The 2nd Gen Venture is the Harley wanna be made from 1999 to 2013. As mentioned, the carbs sync the same way, the difference being where the screws are located...

When was the last time you had the cooling system flushed?? Do you use a product called "Wetter Water?" Yes, it may be normal, but there are things to do to minimize the effects...

If memory serves me, it is one of the relays mounted on the center fairing frame above the headlight...

You may be coming up with the dreaded ignition switch failure that 2nd Gens are known for! Even to service the contacts you have to grind off the heads of the "safety" mounting bolts, and the bolts are loctited in as well! If you do end up needing a new battery, spring the extra money for an AGM battery, they haver more reserve power...

You will be better served with an aftermarket unit as there ain't no new factory ones to be found!! Ignitech makes a programmable one that works very well for many of us. There is also another manufacturer that makes one that has its own built in response curve for spark advance when accelerating. Keep in mind that the '83 TCI is entirely different from the '84 thru '89 units as far as the vacuum advance, they are 180 degrees out of phase from the other years due to where they take the vacuum information from for the boost sensor. You can, however, use an '84 through '89 if you replumb the vacuum to the boost sensor from the carbs to manifold vacuum, which is in exact opposites from each other, the reason why the advance is 180 degrees out of phase with the following years... Buying a used unit off of eBay is a crap shoot as even though they may work, it doers not mean they work 100% right! Some of them can cause a misfire at higher rpms...

One would think so! Wouldn't be the first time one of those old analog meters went south. There is a way to calibrate those old movements but unfortunately, you have to know what you are doing AND have a delicate touch! Waaaaay back in the early 70's I used to calibrate analog meters, there are three sliding weights that have to be adjusted so that the meter reads the same vertical, on each side, and upside down, and it is soooo easy to accidentally nick the winding and turn the entire movement into junk!

Yes, you need longer hydraulic lines and throttle cables. Here's a link to Flanders Catalog, you will find RSV's specs on page 42... http://www.sideroadcycles.com/HandlebarCatalog1-28-2011.pdf Here are JP Cycle's offerings... http://www.jpcycles.com/2010-yamaha-royal-star-venture-s-xvz1300tfs/handlebars/flanders And offerings from Phat Performance... http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Handlebars_Risers_s/586700.htm And Dennis Kirk... https://www.denniskirk.com/handlebars-and-controls/2009-yamaha-xvz1300tfs-royal-star-venture-s.mmy/1.pg If you search more, you may find more stuff!! With the Flanders catalog, you may find the exact rise and pullback you are looking for. I sort of remember having to drill a hole in my Flanders bar for a locking pin for one of the controllers or something, no big deal. Sorry, it's been a while since I converted. The main reason most of us switch is that of shoulder or back pain. If you just go with the 1 1/2" Barons risers you may get away without changing throttle cables or hydraulic lines. The only issue without changing is with the handlebars turned hard over in one direction with the bike running the bike will rev up, but this would never come into effect while actually driving your bike! You can reroute the cables or give them a good yank when remounting the throttle assembly...

My thoughts are that would be awfully long bolts to have to deal with!! I use the 1 1/2' Barons risers with the Flanders bars and find the setup to be very comfortable...

Some M6, a lot of M8, and a few M10's of various lengths...

OK, I kind of doubt your issue is with the Ignitor unit seeing as the bike does run. Based on the symptoms you are listing, the next thing to look at is a rather expensive unit called the Starting Circuit Cut-Off Relay Assembly and it is located in the same area as the fuel pump and gas filter area, and is mounted via a rubber strap on a metal hanger, and has been known to fall off its mount and lay on the engine and melt the plastic housing! It tends to give some strange symptoms a little different from yours, but it is something to look at! If you take off the two false battery covers and the plastic front cover under the seat and pull out your overflow canister for the cooling system and a few other things you may be able to finally see it! The unit itself could be defective from one or more of the internal diodes being bad, but that is not a common failure. When you checked the side stand switch for continuity did you see as close to zero ohms on the lowest scale as possible?? Even a small resistance like 4 ohms can mean the circuit will not function properly and give you the symptom where as soon as you let the clutch out with the bike in gear even though the kickstand is physically up, it will kill the ignition because it sees that low resistance as an open circuit. This is a fairly common failure with many Yamaha systems. What you can do as a troubleshooting technique is to directly short out the switch but be warned that this WILL enable you to start the bike in gear with the clutch engaged from what I remember!!!

Sooo, rest up so you will be fresh for the WNY Rally!!

What a few people have done is ditch the cassette player (you have to jumper a couple of wires on the plug to keep the audio system working) and use the big cavity as a catch-all for stuff. You just have to MacGuyver some sort of cover...

Only 7K miles on a '08?? My God, that bike needs riding!! My theory was based on the fact that you have to crack the throttle which in essence is getting more air volume in to compensate for something restricting the air input but it was just a thought. Maybe something is restricting the air getting to the filter? A second thought is to check the fuse for your carb heaters. I'm hoping you don't have to pull the carbs apart and clean them due to a residue in them from storage. Have you thought of trying a can of seafoam in your tank followed by a session of "Drive it like ya stole it?"

My first guess is the kickstand switch being defective...

Hmmmm, my first guess will be air filters...

There ya go lowrider!! Jim is a great guy to know!! If you are off on Wednesday plan on coming over! My number is in my profile!

You noticed!!