bongobobny

OK, I see Don was answering while I was typing too! Ther key has to be on accessory, not "on" position...

OK, it sounds like you are not getting any power to the controller, or the controller itself is dead! Also, are you aware that the controller only gets power when the key is in the accessory position?? The Zero is painted on, so it always appears even with the unit removed and in your hand!! I would start by removing the dashboard panel so that you have access to the wires and with the ignition switch turned to accessory look for 12 volts between the red and black wires. There is a fuse for the class unit if memory serves me it is an inline fuse in a separate holder but I don't remember exactly where it is... Here's a schematic of the bike's wiring diagram from this website, hopefully, it will help you out... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

You may have to cut/break one mounting ear off to get it to fit. I used a self-tapping bolt and bolted it down on my airbox...

Tou could try a gel pad and a sheepskin, that may lift you up enough. Otherwise, you will have to MacGuyver some kind of extension straps for the seat mounting bars...

OK, the tach is driven by the input to coil 2, specifically coming from the TCI to the coil. So, even if coil 2 went bad it would not effect the tach. Check for corrosion on the connector on the TCI...

If you want to save some work, (but not money) here are some Venture parts! I noticed both left and right fairings in the right color even with aftermarket chrome pieces on them but for what they are asking for them there is too much damage on them! There is another red fairing with damage to it as well but a lot more reasonable price. Just thought I would post the link in case you are looking for other pieces, looks like there is a couple of pretty nice lowers, etc... https://www.ebay.com/b/Yamaha-Venture-Motorcycle-Fairings-Body-Work/35560/bn_1508815?maspect=contextType%3AMOTORCYCLE&MYear=1983

Sooo, you gonna bring it over to the WNY Rally??

Also, if you have a wood burning pencil, you could try melting the plastic together in a spot or two, kind of like tack welding the pieces together...

That area right there, where the rear view mirror mounts, is probably one of the most stressed areas of the fairing, and the place most likely to crack especially when dropped! Speaking of which, by the looks of the edge it looks like it was dropped at least once or twice... I think at one time I actually molded in a couple of washers right into the plastic where the holes for the mirror screws go. As far as that separated crack, try making a vee as I suggested earlier and try using some really strong duct tape on the outside to hold the areas into place...

Ran across this on FB. My antivirus says the site is OK but with any FB post, it's filled with pop-up ads... http://www.opposingviews.com/i/society/venus-williams-gets-court-order-against-family-man-shes-accused-being-responsible-death?fb=ov

Yup, like most of us geriatrics around here, when I grew up there were more standards than automatics! I learned standard on a '55 Plymouth as well as a few other cars of the era...

Yes, I did read the article and agree with you on the circumstances, and common sense (I know, we are not supposed to use those two words together anymore) would dictate what to do in this case, but you also have to take into consideration the money factor! Actually working for a living is passe' these days and people would much rather sue people for money instead! Becky is being sued for her recent error in judgment, and there is a question as to whether or not the guy in the pickup may have been speeding even though Becky turned in front of the two vehicles. The other vehicle was able to come to a complete stop without hitting her in spite of the fact that the truck was in the left lane behind the other vehicle that was in the right lane...

Well, if he is absolutely certain that the pickup coil is open then, of course, that could be the cause! Without timing signals from the pickup coil, the ignitor never knows when to generate a spark so it doesn't!! Just in case your son needs it, here's a link to the wiring diagram from this site! http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf

Great find! For around the same amount of money, you could buy a used R1/R6 caliper and a rebuild kit for them and have better brakes though...

Where there are cracks, take a Dremel tool and make a vee cut on the back side and fill with the 2 part ABS epoxy. The channel you make gives you more surface area to form a bond than if you just try to join with glue at the crack...

Here is New York State, you may enter an intersection on a Yellow, but you must be clear of the intersection before it turns Red! If you are still in the intersection when it turns red you are in violation of the V&T laws and can and will be issued a ticket!

Not if you are using the original wires to trigger the relay... Most of us that switch to air horns use the stock horn wires to switch the ground side of the relay primary.

I've heard some women can fly a broom, does that count as a stick??

If you want a brand new 2 wire brake switch to trigger the relay, send me your addy in a PM and I'll mail it to you, I have no use for it myself... That way you can use just the front brake and the cruise will still shut off and your brake light will work with the front brake as well! I didn't look to make sure, but I think Jeff's system is using the brake lights to trigger the relay. I'll check... No, Jeff is assuming you still have a functional front switch, and I am assuming that by your statement that the switch disintegrated in your hand you do not have a front switch. You also stated your brake lights were not working with the front brakes, most likely due to the switch being bad completely. So my offer stands, one brand new Standard (not cruise control) front brake switch yours for the asking!

OK, the thing to know about the 4 wire switch is one set of contacts is closed while the other is open...

Actually what you may want is a 2 part ABS Epoxy made by several manufacturers that allow you to actually fabricate plastic when there are pieces missing! Many times with plastic repair on fairings, etc, tabs are broken off or a chunk is missing. The 2 part epoxy allows you to actually fabricate the missing parts and is sandable and paintable! One source is Auto Zone but just about any hardware store or department store may have it!

Click... VROOOOOMM!!

Every time you pull a plug wire from the coil, you need to trim about a quarter of an inch from the wire to ensure a good connection from the coil to the wire...

Normally Ebay is our friend but I just checked for you and there are no 4 wire units listed! Also, checking a few OEM parts listings seem to yield nothing available either! So, I guess you will just have to check out some motorcycle boneyard places like Pinwall in Ohio, etc. The switches for the MK2 should work but there is a little black module attached to the harness that is a noise suppressor for the brake light circuit which also includes the electric anti-dive which is the real source of the noise. I used to have a spare or two but I must have already given them away. You might want to check with Earl, Skydoc_17 as he does sell some used parts and he might have one on a parts bike, or maybe someone else has one laying around. Good luck!

Here's a link to the MK1 Royale schematic. You will find the brake switch on the top about in the middle... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf