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bongobobny

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Everything posted by bongobobny

  1. Hmmm! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/member.php?16429-videoarizona I gave you as 16,429...
  2. Their shipping was very prompt as I had the connectors in a couple of days! Now if I can just get the weather and life events to align...
  3. I think so, Jack, but only after the great crash. If you go to the member's profile you will find a link to "this page" with a number on it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/member.php?43-bongobobny As you can see, my member number is 43, meaning AFTER the great crash of '06 I was the 43rd member to rejoin. In reality, I didn't join until '05, whereas if I recall right, you were already a member before me when I first joined...
  4. Talk to da boss, he has my permission to cut and paste into the tech section. This pertains to both generations...
  5. One of many many articles that discuss foaming... http://driving.ca/ford/fusion/auto-news/news/how-it-works-shock-absorbers
  6. Yup! Even with progressives, you need just a little air pressure in the shocks to help keep the hydraulic fluid from foaming and affecting performance once heated up and moving...
  7. OK, time for me to TFU (Test For Understanding)... You may be over testing, all you really need to do is first unplug the stator from the wiring harness located near the fuel pump, and arbitrarily label the 3 white wires A, B, and C. The stator end is the plug that heads down to the bottom of the bike, not the end that heads up to the wiring harness. Now, using an ohm meter on the highest scale, first read the resistance from each wire individually to ground. All 3 wires should read infinity ohms to ground! If there is NOT an open circuit to ground then one of your windings is shorted to ground and is defective! Next, with the ohm meter on a lower scale, read the resistance of all 3 combinations of wires, A to B, A to C, and B to C. All 3 readings should be almost equal, say within 1% of each other. If they are NOT almost equal, then one of the coils has a shorted turn or two and should be discarded! It is very important that these tests are done with the stator disconnected from the wiring harness!!! Of course, the bike should be turned off as well. The above is known as static testing, which should be done first. The next step is to dynamically test the stator! With the stator still unplugged, switch your multitester to AC volts using the 200-volt scale. The output of a stator is AC volts, just like a generator because, in essence, that is exactly what it is! You are going to be measuring the voltage between the 3 combinations of wires just like you did when you measured the 3 coil resistances, NOT each wire to ground! Start the bike, and measure the voltages at idle. You should see some arbitrary voltage somewhere between 10 - 20 volts AC on each combination of wires, and they should all be approximately equal. Next, increase your RPM's to say 2000 RPMs. Your AC voltages should be much higher, say around 50 volts AC on each combination of wires, and should all be still pretty much equal. Increasing your RPMs to 3000 or higher should give you voltages closer to 100 volts AC. The point being, the voltages should all increase uniformly with increasing RPMs! It is also important that these readings are done with the stator disconnected from the system as there could be the possibility of a defective R/R dragging down the readings when connected! I am going through this detailed information to make sure you, and any others reading this, are PROPERLY testing their stators operation! I would hate to see you condemn a stator if you did not test it the right way! I also need to mention a somewhat uncommon but possible failure with stators, and that is a thermal problem where when cold, the varnish on the wires acts as an insulator, but when it heats up the varnish breaks down and shorts out the windings either to itself or to ground. The result being your stator tests fine when the bike is cold, and you go for a ride. Sometime later the varnish breaks down and you loose charging to the battery once the bike heats up! So, what you have to do is warm up the bike considerably and then while still warm, repeat the above testing! OK, so if your stator is both statically and dynamically function properly, AND you have tested your battery with a load tester and you are absolutely sure it is good, then the last test is to determine if your Regulator/Rectifier is operating properly. With your multimeter now switched to DC volts this time, measure across the battery. You should see somewhere around 12.5 volts give or take. Now start the bike, and at idle you should see a little more voltage but not much. When you increase your RPM's the voltage should increase as well! At 2000 RPM you should see maybe 13.2 volts, give or take, and at higher RPM's you will see more voltage up to around 14.5 volts at high RPMs. There should be a point where with higher RPM's the voltage will no longer increase but remain the same regardless of how much more you increase the RPM's. This maximum voltage is what your regulator is set to regulate at, and no two regulators are exactly the same! I would discard any regulator that does not regulate at a minimum of 13.8 volts, and also discard it if it regulates anything higher than say 14.8 volts! The last test of the R/R is to test if it is rectifying properly! What a rectifier does is converts the AC voltage coming from the Stator to a DC voltage that the bike's electrical system uses. Rectifiers can go bad or worse only half bad, where they will sort of convert to DC but will also have some AC riding along with it! To properly check this you need a device called an oscilloscope, but you can effectively test this with your multimeter turned back to AC volts on a lower scale and put it across the battery with the bike running at a higher RPM. You should see darn near zero volts AC at all times and all RPMs! You may see some tiny amount of AC voltage that could be coming from anywhere, but it should be below 0.1 volts AC! If you are seeing anything like 1 volt or more, there is a chance part of your rectifier section of your R/R is defective and should be replaced!! Hope this helps you, and others out!!!
  8. With the cooling fins inside the shell, won't heat build-up be an issue???
  9. One of your stator windings has a couple of shorted windings, replace it!! That is why you have unequal voltages. Also, take your battery to Auto Zone and have it load tested, at this point, it may be stressed...
  10. I know this is going to sound like a stupid question, but did you turn the radio on? If you had the battery out for any length of time the radio automatically turns off...
  11. Brad T and Rhonda moved to Woodstock I think, and Reiny Rooster still lives in the area but I think he just recently stopped riding. I can't remember if Brick was from there, but he had a lot of health problems. That's all I can remember from the K/W area...
  12. There's still a couple left around there, so hopefully, you will get a couple of responses...
  13. Another thing to check is the ground wire where it connects to the engine/frame. It may be corroded! I sort of agree with Blue Sky except that, even with 12.2 volts you should at least get a dash display as long as you read that voltage with the ignition switch on! Double check and clean BOTH battery connections! Hopefully, you had a decent beer and not some cheap suds!!
  14. OK, it sure does sound like the fault is with the ignition switch or the big connector going to it. You are turning the switch to "run" and not just on accessory, correct? Also, check the main 45A fuse, it is an inline link type fuse. You will find it by just following the red main lead from the battery. It is on a plastic block, and there should be a spare in the holder unless someone used it or you lost your clear plastic cover and it fell out... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/88-89%20Yamaha%20Venture%20DU%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20D.pdf
  15. So very sorry to hear this, our sincerest condolences to you and the Warden!!
  16. OK, there are 2 antennas that go on the back of your bike, one for the CB and one for the AM/FM antenna. The CB is on the left of the bike, and the radio on the right. One of those snipped cables is for the passenger rear volume control and intercom. Other wires are for the CB unit. There is also wiring for the rear speaker wires both left and right. As I was looking back at your pictures, I see a couple of responses made while I am typing! Yes, they are both correct, all you really need to do to get the FM working is hook up an antenna and things should bring joy back to Mudville again! I agree with you, the factory schematic is about as useful as a screen door on a submarine! You just need to match up the wire colors on the one side of the master connector and hope it gives you a clue to what its function is but good luck with that!
  17. Just a minute ago I saw a post on FB that Brenda Harry was sitting on her trike watching the firemen try to save what's left of her house!! https://www.facebook.com/brenda.harry.96/posts/1541224179250305?comment_id=1541227452583311&sw_fnr_id=2211254818&fnr_t=0
  18. OK, now to get back on track of the purpose of this thread, the itinerary! Saturday is the really, really big show!! The day starts out with the annual breakfast run to Sprague's Maple Farm! http://spraguesmaplefarms.com/ They serve the best breakfasts around!! If you go away hungry, you ain't human!!! For those that have them, kickstands up around 9:00 ish. It is about an hour's ride! The afternoon is pretty much a laid back time, we will have DJ music, and fun and games. Now, around 6:00 is when the outdoor BBQ happens! Tickets are $10.00 and MUST be purchased by Friday afternoon! no ticket, no eat! Here's the menu... Grilled Half Chicken Corn On The Cob Macaroni Salad Fresh Salad Dinner Roll We will also be supplying water and pop (soda for you non-Western New Yorkers) Then, after dinner is the big event, a LIVE Band!! As usual, Hizzoner and the Lawyers (whatever their real name is) will be entertaining us with their live renditions of some great music! They usually start playing around 7:30 and finally quit around 11:00, give or take. They always put on a great show!! Sunday is the great good bye and clean-up day. Officially the rally is over but everyone is welcome to stick around and socialize if they so desire...
  19. Yeah, stuttering Gary's head is more than just a hat rack... Somewhere, in some thread here, is the specs you are looking for. Sorry, but I don't have them handy. This is a timely question though as I am considering buying one of those aftermarket ones that have close to the same specs and has the shut-off feature. Our bikes are carburetted so the psi should be around 10. Not sure of the flow rate but remember that when the carbs are full, the needle valve closes and no more gas gets in, resulting in a pressure build up on the inlet line which results in the pump eventually not being able to pump more...
  20. It probably should, but I would do a search for a different supplier, I am pretty much fed up with Amazon's prices...
  21. Perfect, Jack!!! Now, do you have a picture of the Fuel Pump relay?? I could probably crop the fuel pump relay circuit and paste to explain its operation for the guy...
  22. Perhaps this image will help you understand... http://www.globalspec.com/ImageRepository/LearnMore/20122/fuel%20pump%20diagramb28f6490842c485394ecf10695bece1c.png Electricity is supplied to the electromagnet which pulls the diaphragm. This causes the contact points to disconnect, causing the spring to push the plunger back out. This causes the points to reconnect sending electricity back into the electromagnet causing the whole process to start over again...
  23. The physical movement of the diaphragm I believe... When you turn on the key, you hear a click click click. That is the points opening and closing, NOT the fuel pump relay turning on and off... Keep in mind we use an inline fuel pump that uses a plunger, not an electric motor such as usually found inside a car gas tank, which generally uses an electric motor needed for higher fuel pressures for fuel injection. Our fuel pumps are more akin to the old mechanical fuel pump that used a push rod driven by a camshaft lobe to do the pumping. the Venture is carburetted which uses a much lower operating pressure... Pull the left side false battery cover from your RSV and locate the fuel pump. There you will see a black cap with a screw to remove it. Remove the cap and you will see the points...
  24. No, the points on the fuel pump are under the black cap on the fuel pump end. They make and break causing the pump to actually, well, pump!! The relay supplies the operating voltage to the points when the key is first turned on for less than 5 seconds, and then continuously after the engine starts...
  25. I think the clutch covers are different but don't quote me, I'm getting senile too...
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