bongobobny

Well, this may not be the answer that you are looking for, but here are my observations! For the cover, the head was probably stripped out from someone using an SAE screwdriver on a JIS (Japan Industrial Standard) screw. The angle of the slots is different and that is why an SAE screwdriver strips them out. If you are going to work on a metric bike, be sure to use metric tools on herm to include the screwdrivers! As far as the slave cylinder bolts go, first make sure you are using a good set of metric Allen keys, and not SAE! Yes, they are tight, and it sure does seem like you are going to either strip the head out or snap the bolt! You may want to try some sort of impact driver, either electric, pneumatic, or mechanical "hit them with a hammer" type! Speaking of hammers, you might want to consider giving the Allen bit a wack to make sure it is secure! Try using 1/2 inch drive tools as well... Good luck with your project, and while you are replacing the slave, there is also a rubber gasket on the end of the pushrod that you may want to consider replacing while you have the slave off!

The engine side covers attach different on the '83, but some were converted. The covers themselves are the same. Yes, due to the different vacuum porting, the TCI's for the '83 has a vacuum advance that is 180 degrees out of phase with the other years. The instrument cluster is different for the '83. There are a couple of very minor differences in the wiring harness and wiring of the '83.

Everything in moderation! Try to limit red meat to only once or maybe occasionally twice a week! Fish and fowl are good...

Hmm, vacuum leak?? Check the caps on the sync ports as they can and will crack. When was the last time you sync'ed the carbs?? How about new spark plugs??

Actually, pulling the plugs is a breeze WITH the proper tools! You need a thin wall deep metric socket (I forgot the size,17mm or 19mm, 18mm??) and a universal joint and a short extension. You will also need to pull those front and rear plastic heat shields. They come out with minimal finagling... On the 2nd Gens, you have to pull the gas tank and remove the dogbones to get to the plugs...

That's somewhat debatable, Larry. I can split my fairing in 5 to 10 minutes, even with the running lights. How long did you fumble and curse doing it the other way? Yes, it can be done, and sometimes it even works fairly easy but, doing it your way, can you do other things like servicing your audio system cables, etc??? Very glad you got things fixed and hope you did not permanently damage your battery...

Here are the winning Powerball numbers... # &( $% !@ & with the supplimental number of #* Your problem is to figure out what date these numbers are valid for! All of the above advice is very important! You need to isolate which carb is overflowing, and YES, VERY important to get all of that excess gas out of the cylinder! Hydrolock can and will bend rods... Pull all 4 plugs and crank it over and watch which cylinder or cylinders spray a lot of gas out of...

Glad you mentioned that Du-Rron! Also very important, try to find new caps for your vacuum ports as they deteriorate, and they tear easily...

Question, what time of day were you taking them? The best time is at bedtime...

One more thing to add, the Regulator/Rectifiers seem to go south a lot more than the 1st Generation ones did. Having had both, the 1st Gen handles much better at low speeds than the 2nd Gen, and the 1st Gen is a tad peppier than the 2nd, but the 2nd Gen is a lot more comfortable! Would I recommend buying one, especially as a touring bike? In a heartbeat! Yet another good product from Mother Yammy that you'll get a good 200,000 miles out of!

Uhhh, Jack, the 2nd gen is electronic, no cable, no moving parts...

Just one thing, double check your meter by reading your battery voltage on your car or truck, whatever you have. The reason being sometimes voltmeters can give erroneous readings, especially if their internal battery is weak...

Me too, D and E...

Hey, how did you know I like my dinners? Was it my round belly?? Thanks for the kind words guys! John, I'm glad I was able to help out! It can be hard to troubleshoot over the phone when I'm not there seeing just exactly what is going on but hopefully what you found is the final answer! Great to hear from you as well!!

Yup, that was my first thought as well, the old dry speedometer cable whine... Sometimes it is the speedometer itself, just prior to the odometer gears going south.

Good job Puc!!!

Hey, Ed, it is good to hear from you! Also very timely as just the other day Condor posted a picture of the Ventures immediately after the fire and we were wondering how you were making out! Congratulations on the new chapter in your life and great to hear you have found companionship as well!! Maybe next August you could venture up here for the Western New York Northeast Regional Rally!!

Yup! Although it may be one of the best TOURING bikes ever made, it is WAAAAAAY too big of a bike to learn how to ride on!! Find yourself a nice small to mid-sized lighter bike to get your feet wet on, and then after you have been riding for a while then try out a "Big Boy's" bike... And, as was mentioned, if you can find a motorcycle training program in your area it is a very worthwhile investment! Welcome to the biking community and we hope you find it a very enjoyable lifetime hobby!!!

P.S. Thanks to the Pucster for pointing me to this thread, I normally only read the watering hole and the Technical forums.

Hi, Joe! If you ever decide to "Venture" westward into New York's finger lakes wine country let us know and we will meet up with you! I notice you drink your whiskey straight as do I. I also notice you are a ham radio operator, I was too back in the 60's (WB2GBO) before going into the Army but never got back into it after that...

This is ass u me'ing that the location is the same for a First Generation Venture and a Second Generation Royal Star Venture. They probably are but you never know...

I am not positive on this, so you will have to look at the cable ends, but perhaps the audio output for your Garmin is monophonic (1 audio channel) and the Yamaha IS (as in yes, it is) stereo (2 channel). If you are plugging a mono cable into a stereo jack, it will put a ground where there is not supposed to be one. Also, if you are plugging in a stereo cable into a mono jack (the output of the Garmin if it's output is mono) that too might put a ground where it isn't supposed to! Try unplugging the cable that is connected into the Garmin and see if the noise goes away. Sometimes, even just the routing of an audio cable can cause ignition noise to get in even if the cabling is correct. One would think that if there was a bad cable, the noise would be there all the time...

Yes, that 5 wire box is called an R/R or Regulator/Rectifier. The Stator produces an AC voltage that first has to be changed into DC, or is "Rectified!" The second part is to Regulate or make its output at a constant voltage. When the voltage level that is trying to be rammed into the battery is too high, the regulator shunts the excess power to ground...

​Both...

They're trying to make it look like a Beemer IMHO...