bongobobny

It never does...

I like it!! Great concept! Hmmm, could be a project for someone...

Looks like a lot of projects started and none ever completed! Some interesting stuff there, one I'm thinking one was '49 or '50 Ford convertible but the center post on the windshield is missing...

One of the main reasons oil gets blown out is overfilling the oil when changing it! With the bike cold and level, the oil level should NOT be above 1/2 way up the sight glass...

I did see something like those a while back, and they were effective! For the price it seems like a really good deal, doesn't it?!!? I'm seriously thinking of buying...

If anybody is thinking of a new shield, this is the one to buy!!!

Don't forget to reboot your clocks tonight...

The rotor bolts are loctited so it helps to heat them first...

Hi John! Everything fixed?? I'm sorry I missed your call, we were in Mexico that week...

There was a slight flutter in the air for a few minutes this morning... PS Puc, we had hamburgers for lunch yesterday, but ours were cooked on the grill outside!

What a sweetie!!!

Yup, what Puc says!! Myself, I would make up a 50/50 mixture of ATF (which is pretty much what Marvel Mystery oil is) and brake fluid or penetrating oil (brake fluid is a wonderful penetrating oil and rust eater), and pull the plugs and using a syringe as Puc mentioned, squirt about 5 to 10 cc's into each cylinder and let it sit for a day or two. I would, at this time, drain all that 30-year oil out of the crankcase, and let it drain for a day to get all the nasty sludge as well! I would then find some inexpensive 10W40 oil that does NOT have any friction modifiers in it, just to use for a little while, like as long as it takes to get the engine running, then dump that oil as it will be contaminated with rust and gunk. Now, just as Puc said, once that penetrating mixture has sat for a couple of days, disable the ignition and fuel line and crank it over and over and over to hopefully clean up the piston rings and cylinder walls before you actually try to get it running... There is also an old school trick of mixing kerosene in with some oil to turn over the motor (and maybe run it for about 15 seconds) and then drain that mixture for a good day to flush out the rust and sludge if you are brave, but I'm thinking hopefully with the very low mileage on your motor there should be very little actual sludge, just the possibility of a rust buildup... Best of luck, pretty much plan on rebuilding every caliper and master cylinder as I'll bet you dollars to donuts you will find a crystallized mess in them...

What does the above have to do with why???

Yup! Overall there is very little if any effect on maximum RPM's. The real limiting factor is the sheer mass of the piston and rod as well as the stroke and bore. Of course, friction also plays a role as does many much more minor factors. I also wanted people to think about the role of the crankshaft and what drives what! Do the pistons drive the crank or does the crank drive the pistons or is it both?!!? Ahh! There's the rub! Gee, can the crankshaft limit RPMs too?? More points to ponder... I was just adding fuel to the fire for the great debate going on between Pucster and the Fool...

Absolutely very sorry to hear of your trials and tribulations, but unfortunately it is just a sign of the times! Stay true to your beliefs and convictions and remember God is STILL in control...

You're not the first one to make those observations...

Switch to a 3/4 or full helmet?? I wear a full face mostly because of a friend who went down in the '70s on a freshly oiled road. He told me, as he was sliding, he watched the face shield peal off and thought "That could have been my face..."

To quote Bob (Zimmerman) Dylan, "And the times, They Are A'Changin...

Ummm, maybe some quieter mufflers???

I agree with you on the looks! I had the privilege of actually renting an AMX for a few days in 19780 while on R&R in Hawaii! Held its own against a 'Vette...

Very astute of you, RR! Ummm, however, there are some very educated engineers who might disagree with you... http://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.1177/2041299110394918 https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C2CHBF_enUS719US719&source=hp&ei=6JTzWbCOGafRjwTVurToDA&q=inertia+in+internal+combustion+engine&oq=inertia+in+an+internal&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0i22i30k1.6433279.6444225.0.6448246.23.22.0.0.0.0.197.2788.0j20.20.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..3.20.2787.0..0j35i39k1j0i131k1j0i20i264k1j0i22i10i30k1j33i22i29i30k1.0.6U_R3NXhUrk https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C2CHBF_enUS719US719&ei=HK7zWabGGIijjwTv0aO4Ag&q=moment+of+inertia+in+internal+combustion+engine&oq=moment+of+inertia+in+internal+combustion+engine&gs_l=psy-ab.3...73312.77062.0.79170.10.10.0.0.0.0.127.1107.2j8.10.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..0.1.127...35i39k1.0.fYasbTr6wa8

1st video, yup, definite baffle rattle!! 2nd and 3rd, fix the baffle and see if things change...

The real issue is the thrust washer material was too soft. Replace it regardless of how nice it may look now...

Overall, other than being just a tad slower than an MK1, the MK2 was a far superior bike over the MK1....

Yup, not an Apple fan here either...