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Today I received some correspondence from PCW Racing and they are finally getting their new facility up and running!! That means that very soon their dynometer will be operational and they can finally complete my engine and ship it to me after all these years!! There will be a motor pulling party followed by a motor putting party after the frame gets powder coated this summer!! I am very excited to finally get this project completed. Unfortunately due to my health when it is done I will be looking for an appropriate new home for Goldie. I hope to find someone who will love her as much as I do...

Have you tried any of the Head Shops?? They usually have a large selections of pipes...

Invest the $14 in the Damon Ferraiuolo video I mentioned earlier, it covers everything in great detail and even explains the theory and how to set them up properly!

Yes, one surface is sufficient as the other surface will come in contact with the sealant when assembled. Some people may be anal and insist that both sides be coated to insure a complete seal but then each surface has to have a super thin application to make sure that not too much is used and it gets everywhere! It is good that you are thinking about all of the possibilities that can happen. Just use common sense and think of what is trying to be accomplished with the task. In this case you are just making sure that the two surfaces, which are never completely flat at a microscopic level, mate up and nothing can leak past the seam...

Yup! Think of it like caulk or a gasket. You want to keep it away from bolt holes because when the two halves compress the yamabond gets squished and it can get into the threads which will cause the bolt to bind up giving you a false torque reading and make it difficult to remove the bolt in the future. just a millimeter or less is sufficient to do this. What I am trying to tell you is if you get a little in the actual bolt hole just remove the excess with a toothpick or something. You do want the sealer around the bolt holes but not in the bolt holes. Keep up the good work!! You will be very pleased with the performance of the bike when it is finished! Back in the day the Venture would run circles around the Gold Wing!!!

I dunno, it has a ticketa-ticketa sound like maybe a bad cam tension-er or something, and why is there vapor coming out of only one exhaust???

No idea as to why one cylinder is hotter than the other, but you may be right about the stale gas! I would suggest that you put a whole can of Seafoam into a full tank of fresh gas and ride it like you stole it first, then give it a set of the proper plugs as well as doing a sync on the carbs. If the sync is way off that might explain why one cylinder is running hotter. Also I would suggest checking for any type of exhaust leak that might have caused the bottoms of the bags to melt. There might be an issue with the mounting of the aftermarket exhaust. Also, you didn't accidentally leave the choke on?? That will cause the bike to run rich and hot...

OK, the real purpose of the bar end weights is to dampen out vibrations. If you want to change the throwback and width of the bars you need to go to aftermarket bars and a lot of times you need to have longer brake and clutch hydraulic lines as well as longer throttle cables. A lot of us like the Flanders bars to bring the controls back a bit. Aftermarket grips will require not using the bar weights or need modifications to make them work. My choice was Kuryakin (sp) grips with their own end weights. I like the comfort of them, and did consider drilling and tapping to make the Venture weights work which a few people have done in the past, but it looked like too much work at the time...

If your selector switch is going through all the functions, i.e. AM, FM, Cassette, Aux, then there is most likely nothing wrong with your controller... From our Tech Library, maybe this will help you out... https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf

You hit the nail right on the head, Casey!! What REALLY matters is not how cheap your insurance is but rather how they handle their claims!!! We are with State Farm and they are extremely fair and prompt with claims!!!

Yup! On the 1st Gen it is the bottom most bolt! No, it does not have to be removed for an oil change! The oil level should be halfway up the site glass with the bike level such as on the center stand. If you overfill, just let a little out of the drain plug as any more than halfway up will blow out the vent hose and into your air box, not a desirable thing to have happen!

News I have been both dreading to hear and yet in a way glad to hear, Scott! I know it is sad to loose a brother and I also know you will miss him a lot! I am glad, though, because not only is his suffering finally over, but I rejoice that Heaven has a new citizen! I also feel that you and him will be reunited again in the future just as all of us who accept Jesus Christ as our Lord and Savior will eventually be reunited in the Kingdom of God! So, for now my sincere condolences to you, Tippy, and all of your family and I trust that God will comfort all of you in these sad times.

No, I read that they are trying out some new-fangeled brake system they call "drum" brakes! (I wonder what kind of "roll" those drum brakes do...)

Just released today from Yamaha is a photograph of the new for 2020 completely redesigned Venture!!!

I just wheeled it out of storage...

Just so you know, the MK2 pieces will fit your MK1, but some are direct bolt-on and some require changing out the sub-fairing brackets. The trunk requires changing out the chrome mounting frame (direct bolt-on) and changing the antenna bracket but then you have a much bigger trunk but it is not removable unless you can find an '85 trunk frame and the mounting hardware for the trunk but then you need a second key...

Wish the video was a little longer... Just out of curiosity, if you squeeze the clutch does the sound change at all?? How about if the clutch is squeezed and you put it into gear???

That would be my thought, a needle valve that is not seating properly...

First off, WELCOME!!! Yes, this site is directly traceable to the old Venture Touring Society, we are a splinter group from the website Venturers which sort of came out of the VTS. Per above, yes you can rebuild and adjust the carbs yourself, but keep in mind they are very complex and can require some very specific attention to detail. The video that Blue Sky mentioned is an excellent reference source! Anybody that has a dedicated VMax engine just for bench testing the carbs deserves a hats off!! As was also mentioned be prepared to shell out several hundred dollars in parts if you want to do a complete and thorough job of it. There are some cheaper alternatives that you can try first. Put a whole can of Seafoam into a full tank of gas and then drive it like you stole it!! Another thing you can try is called the "Shotgun" method of cleaning the carbs. Also, as mentioned, inspect your diaphragms for little pinholes and replace if needed or st least repair them. Cowpuc can fill you in on what product to use for that! Just what is the bike doing that led you to the conclusion the carbs are what's wrong?? We could sure use some specific symptoms to help you out. There are a lot of experts here that can help you straighten out your issues...

A long time ago I was a regular listener of Pastor Perry F. Rockwood on The People's Gospel Hour, and he wrote an article called "Cremation, Is It Christian?" I read the article and it presented a very strong argument with scriptural reference against it! Unfortunately that was probably 30 years ago and I don't remember the references but for myself I choose NOT to be cremated. Now this choice, just like any choice in my life. is for me and only me. Just like God the Father I will not force my beliefs on anyone else, it is up to each and every individual to make their own personal choices as to how to run their lives. I choose to follow the Lord and his wishes. Anyway, I tried to locate this publication for you as reference material but this is as far as I got. maybe a phone call can get you their advertised booklet "The Bible Has Something To Say" and it might give you some insight... http://tpgh.org/current-issues/ Still praying for your brother and his family, and you!

You will enjoy the bike a hell of a lot more when it is at its full potential!!!

I agree 100% with Blue Sky!! The videos will get you to the transmission, and I'm pretty sure someone has taken pictures or done a write-up on how to change that pesky thrust washer...

Holy Crap, Earl!! Sorry to hear this but I also know just how tough of an old bird you are! Best wishes for a speedy recovery and enjoy the time off, I guess...

Yup, read that on Facebook yesterday. Prayers up!

Yup, the easiest way is to pick up a MK2 wiring harness from '86 - '90 and a TCI box from '84 - '90. The main frames are the same for all years 1st gen. The MK2 has different sub-frames but they bolt right on. With the different harness you will also have to change out your speedometer cluster as the '83 is unique. All this stuff is found on eBay for a reasonable price usually, except the TCI which for a good working one they want a small fortune for! There are aftermarket TCI's available that will work...