bongobobny

Yah! What Camos said! They're still waaaaay faster than a 2nd Gen, the MK1 just gets up to speed faster and believe it or not, according to the factory spec, has slightly more horsepower than the bigger 1300!

OK! Great that you are aware of the differences between a JIS and SAE Phillips, a lot of people do not! There is an inline fuse for the radio in the wiring harness that goes to the radio, just follow the red wire and you will find it. Also, one of the biggest problems with that harness is that it gets pinched between the upper fairing and the frame and shorts out, so make sure the PO didn't accidentally pinch it when he was "fixing" something else!! PS Welcome aboard!!!

The reason you had so much trouble with the p[hillips screws is it is a Japanese bike so the screws are JIS, not SAE!!! You will continue to strip out screws if you do not invest in a good set of JIS drivers!!! Also, those screws have loctite on them so they come out a little hard to begin with... I'll analyze your electrical issues later, too tired to think tonight...

Same deal with the rear caliper, different bolt distance. You can swap out the caliper mounting bracket but then you either have to swap out the swingarm or design an adapter to mount the bracket to the '84 swingarm. Yes, the MK1 brakes are anemic at best. There is a reason why they were improved with the MK2! Maybe the other half or the "improvement" was an engine that was a little slower so that the improved brakes had a better chance of stopping you...

Time to move out of Cali???

Their program was on the radio when we were in diapers, my friend!!!

Ya made me smile there, Pucster!!!

Here Here!!!

Yup, kind of a common issue with the 2nd generation, but pretty easily fixable! Search the tech section here and find a step by step set of instructions complete with pictures for the basic replacement of the clutch. Now, a great fix is to replace the actual clutch with a Heavy Duty Yamaha clutch which has twice the clutch area of the stock one. From there, there are two great aftermarket fixes that make it better than stock. One is to replace the stock "spring" with a heavy duty version made by PCW Racing from Schenectady, NY, and the other is to go with the Barnett system which is the Rolls Royce of clutches but a lot more pricey than the PCW spring. The real issue is kind of a combination of the spring and the stock clutch. For parts, contact a member here, Earl, Skydoc_17 who sells parts and gives very good prices for what he sells! You possibly may be able to beat his prices but it will take a lot of research! Earl is a GREAT guy and really is only interested in helping us out! Myself I ended up going with the PCW spring and the H.D. Yamaha clutch, and so far no issues which is great considering I'm hauling an extra 400 to 500 pounds of trike along with the original weight! I will, however, go with the Barnett clutch next time around if the issue rears it's ugly head again! BTW just replacing the "spring" with a PCW spring does not require actually removing the clutch or the discs, it's an easy take out the old and put in the new fix...

Good truck IMHO!

This thread reminds me of Fibber McGee's closet...

Dang, Stan, I've got to get Goldie back together!! Still waiting on my motor from PCW, John has had some medical problems. Hope I can still ride two wheels though...

The reason Poc made that video was in his original thread he was talking about the E6000 and I made a comment about wondering just how flexible the product was, and that was his answer to the query...

Yup, 2nd gen one size fits all...

There ya go, Ed!!! Now, THIS is the VR.org I know and love!!!

Well, you can try some chrome cleaner or Brasso, but it looks like there is to much chrome missing. Here ya go... https://www.ebay.com/sch/Lighting-Indicators/180034/i.html?_from=R40&_vxp=mtr&selcontext=productType%3AMOTORCYCLE&selfil=1%2C2%2C3%2C6&selvel=2009~Yamaha~Royal%2520Star~XVZ1300TF%2520Venture&_nkw=2009+Yamaha+Royal+Star+XVZ1300TF+Venture And while you are at it, you want to figure out how to extend the bar further out so that when you split your front fairing you won't have to loosen and/or remove the passing light bar to get the fairing off! Some of us have made spacers, and some have designed extension plates.

Hey, Rick, as long as YOU are happy! Screw what others think...

Try eBay!!! To my knowledge, they are still available but new is big bucks! Here's an example, I need a good black one for mine... https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/2C9-2835K-00-P0 I just checked eBay, none for sale today but you may want to try Pinwall, they have stripped down lots of Ventures. Yes, try Mike Eyecamp, EUSA1 on the site...

^^^^^^^^^ Both good points!!!

Do you actually need the slider, or are you just dealing with torn diaphragms? If so, there are aftermarket diaphragms available or in a pinch, you can repair the old ones with some goop. See Cowpuc for info on that...

That sucks, John!!! Wishing you the best of luck finding a new job!

OK, you have gotten a lot of good advice already! RR is pretty spot on with his advice. Here's my slant... Popping on deceleration is indeed mostly an issue with the AIS or Air Injection System, but improperly synced carbs can also contribute! Yes, you can just bypass the AIS but for best efficiency and emissions you should repair the system. A bad exhaust gasket can also cause the problem as well as non-stock mufflers. High-speed handling usually is not an issue with these bikes, before I triked mine it felt rock solid at 100 MPH plus! One of the key issues is a proper torque on the steering head. There is a specialty tool out there to aid in setting the steering head bolt to the proper torque, but that usually causes strange oscillations in the handlebar. I would more so suspect a bad front tire or possibly the rear tire, or it could be a swingarm issue. As pointed out, improper air pressure on the front forks can also cause an issue, especially if they are not the same psi on both sides. Yes, please, please, please do NOT use anything but a hand pump on them unless you like replacing fork seals! As mentioned, the cracking of the rubber on the intake boots is not necessarily an issue as the centers are metal. If you do decide to replace them, please make sure you replace the rubber "o" rings as well, as they have aged, and thoroughly clean the mating surface as you will find a lot of crud built up there! The stock horn leaves a lot to be desired, so a lot of us have converted to air horns! We use the WOLO Bad Boy or the Steibel which has the same OEM and a relay connected directly to the battery for power. You can use the original horn wires to trigger the relay or contact member Carbon_One who makes a wiring harness and bracket for the conversion. Now, seeing as there are two stock horns and one is protected under fairing pieces, I would suspect the issue being with the horn switch. All it does is supply a ground through its contacts. With the cruise control, one of the primary reasons for it failing is slop in the clutch lever! There is a secondary set of contacts that turn the cruise off if you touch the clutch, and if the one bushing has slop in it that will shut off the cruise. Of course, there may be an operator error issue here, so make sure to read the owner's manual for proper operation. There are other possible reasons for failure, but the clutch lever seems to be the usual issue. As far as running on all 4, when firing up a cold engine, use a heat probe on all 4 exhaust pipes to monitor for uniform heating up. If you find one that is out, there are a few reasons for this, but most of the time the issue is electrical! There are elements inside the plug wire caps that can go bad. inside the caps are a resistive disc and a spring, and corrosion can set in hindering the spark! Invest in a cheap spark gap checker, available at most auto parts stores for around $10 to $15 that will tell a tale as to how good your spark is. You should be able to draw a spark at least 0.100 inches on each plug. Also, Ventures have a tendency to eat spark plugs and yearly replacement is not out of the question! Using Iridium plugs is worth the investment as they do indeed last longer. NGK's work best! Yes, add a bottle of seafoam to your next tank of gas and drive it like you stole it!!! BTW these V4 engines like their rpm's and are totally unlike a V Twin! 1st gear is good to 25, 2nd maybe 40, third 50 or more, and forget about 5th under 60 -65!! Actually, redline for all gears is much higher than I recommended, I'm just offering a guideline as to when to shift, the power band starts at around 3500rpm and redline is over 7000! They actually perform better and get better gas mileage at higher RPMs!! You should be getting around 40mpg. Also, only run regular gas, high octane does not help and actually can impede performance! Seafoam is our friend, initially run a full can but after that 1/2 can is good to say every 5 tanks or so. Keep us abreast of your progress and feel free to ask questions, it's part of the reason we're here!! We are also here for friendship and fellowship, we are more than a website, we are family here!!

Looks absolutely beautiful!! Congratulations and enjoy!!!

Great!! Early June, please...

Yup, cash talks, bull**** walks...