bongobobny

Yup, the Beast went to a good home!!!

Yup, what Jeff said! You have the wrong replacement block. You need the type that has isolated terminals on each side of the fuses. I do indeed recommend buying Earl's (Skydoc_17) kit especially if you are electrically challenged...

To my knowledge, they are still available and not that expensive. Replace it and the o rings and be done with it... And yes, bend the guard back to its original position!

Once again, sprinkle some lye which will break down the nasty organic stuff faster...

Wish I could have been there to see exactly how Carl did it! I was going to bore out the caps on the grips and find the right sized nut but opted for just buying the Kuryakin weights...

To answer your query about just the spring or the whole enchilada, usually just the spring will at least fix it, just remember all the time it is slipping you are glazing surfaces. The easiest fix is to replace the stock "spring" with the beefier PCW racing spring which does not require you to totally disassemble everything! If you do decide to replace everything, I highly recommend replacing the stock clutch disc with the Yamaha Heavy Duty one which has more surface area and you don't have to reinstall that stupid wire! Of course, the Barnett spring assembly is the best way to go but costs a lot more than the PCW spring...

One way to improve your steering is to get the front wheel further forward. The greater the distance the front tire is from the rear tires, the easier it is to steer, but at the price of turning radius which with a Voyager is 40 acres, to begin with! Life is always about compromises, isn't it?!!? You stated you haven't removed the "lowering" in the front yet, so start with that! The usual way to add "easy steer" is with a 6-degree rake which requires a different triple tree, and that gets expensive at least a thousand bucks! Another less expensive trick is to get the handlebars back further and wider if possible. The Flanders bars for the Venture coupled with the Barons risers accomplishes this, but plan on having to replace your throttle cables with longer ones, and possibly your front brake and clutch lines as well!

If you can find one, the Honda Valkyrie Interstate is a great easy to handle bike, but they are still in high demand and usually are sold within hours if not days...

Yup!! Breakfast burritos are a wonderful reason as to why live in Arizona!!! Oh, you meant the scenery...

Uh HUH!! And everything on Facebook is 100% true too...

I'm sure it is compared to a water cooled true Venture!!!

Also, the fluid in the reservoir may appear clean, but the fluid in the system itself is probably very dark! It's not like all the fluid in the reservoir goes through the whole system and mixes with it, quite the opposite! The fluid in the line pretty much goes back and forth in the line and stays there. The yucky stuff will appear at the bleeder end! I highly recommend using a speed bleeder, which is an 8MM x 1.25 (turns per MM) thread, and a vacuum pump to do the bleed operation! Use DOT4 synthetic brake fluid for the best performance. The synthetic fluid has a higher boiling point so it will stay cleaner longer and work better.

I remember the California Emissions plug being a different color than the white...

The two main complaints I've heard (besides no luggage room) is cramped space for your feet, and getting in and out... They have come out with some really interesting color combinations over the past few years, there is a really sharp looking (IMHO) green one at Pioneer right now!

One other possibility, what are you using for oil??? Using the wrong oil can make your clutch slip...

Yup, one of the few unfortunate "bugs" with the 2nd gen. Good old Cheaper, Better, Faster (choose 2)... The other bugs are the ignition switch and the fuel pump points.

Uhh, Pucster, the warranty on the 2nd gen was 5 years UNLIMITED miles...

No, 2nd gens do not have linked brakes, the fronts and the rear are independent. One thing about the rears, due to the setup of the system, they tend to wear one pad faster than the other. Knowing that many of us swap the rear pads from side to side on a regular basis, like yearly or more depending on how many miles you ride AND whether city or country riding... I was taught many many years ago to hit the rear brake just before the fronts to prevent going over the handlebars on bicycles. The same is relevant to motorcycles. As a matter of fact, with the linked brakes on the 1st gen, there is a device called a proportioning valve which has a spring loaded valve in it that delays hydraulic fluid going to the front brake by a few milliseconds for this very reason...

Not sure, need to see a picture, but there was an unused plug on the harness for hooking up the module for California Emissions standards that wasn't used in the other 49...

Sprinkle some Lye on the ground to help disburse it faster...

Extended warranties are a crap shoot at best! All you have to do is have your air conditioner crap out and it pretty much pays for itself, but otherwise, you can be just throwing your money out the window! Myself, I have bought the extended warranty on the last 3 new vehicles, mainly because I'm getting old and don't feel like fixing them anymore. On one car it cost me money, on another, I recouped maybe a little over a half of the cost, and another it was a good thing I had it as the combined repair costs were around double what I paid for the extended warranty. The cost has been continually rising, the first one I bought over 10 years ago ran me just under a thousand, my current one ran closer to two thousand...

I'm not sure who, but he's pretty important here!!! I'm surprised nobody wished him a Happy Birthday yet!!! You know who you are!! Hey, Boss, I think this needs further investigation... :group cheers:

Yamaha also used to make a spray can of Teflon lube...

I'm sure you know better, but I have to throw this out. Are you sure your oil wasn't overfilled at the last change?? If the level was higher than halfway up the site glass with the bike level high speed would push the oil out of the engine, usually into the air cleaner, where the excess will drip out of the overflow tube...