bongobobny

Greetings from Wyethville, VA! We are on our way to Florida this year. We are only doing an 8 day cruise this year followed by a week at a timeshare outside Orlando, and then a weekend in Key West. Looking at the weather back home, it looks like we got out of town just in time! We did see some snow yesterday in New York, Pennsylvania, and west Virginia, but no major snowstorms. It's nice and sunny here but a little chilly. We're on our way to Savannah for a couple of days before our cruise out of Canaveral Sunday. I'll try to post some pictures as the time goes by...

First off, Welcome aboard fellow WNY'er!! Hope to run into you this summer!! Larry makes an excellent hitch, I don't know if the other guy bought the one above, but if not that one would be a good one! I'm not sure if Diamond R is still selling them, but that is anther possibility. You could also try the Hitch Doctor. You also may luck out and some member might have one laying around not in use... Be sure to check out the WNY Rally this August!! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?133915-Wny-regional-rally-2018-august-16th-19th&p=1031669#post1031669

Sure glad I'm halfway to Florida today...

Was it ever financially rewarding???

Auto Zone, Advance Auto, etc! You want a simple 12 volt SPST which stands for Single Pole, Single Throw relay. Single pole means there is only one set of contacts for the electricity to flow through, and single throw means the contacts are either connected or disconnected, as opposed to a double throw which means when one set of contacts gets disconnected another set gets connected. What that means is when you energize the relay, electricity goes to one place, and when you de-energize the relay the electricity goes somewhere else. A single throw just sends electricity someplace when turned on (energized) and shuts it off when turned off. An SPST relay has 4 prongs. Two of the prongs are for the relay coil. The coil is what turns on the main electricity or turns it off. A relay is just a simple electromagnet! When you apply electricity to the coil, it becomes an electromagnet and it draws the secondary contacts together and completes the circuit for whatever you are trying to control. The relay coil draws very little current, but the secondary contacts can handle a whole bunch of current! When you buy your relay you can use a 30 amp relay just fine, but you can also use a 40 amp relay as well. Here's the good news, you can and should use your existing horn wires to trigger the relay! You simply hook up the two wires to the coil and be done with it! It does not really matter which wire goes where as there is no real polarity to the primary coil. Next, you need to hook up a wire from your battery to one of the relay contacts. Use 14 gauge wire or 16 gauge wire at the thinnest. the other relay contact gets a wire hooked from it to the horn plus contact. the minus horn contact gets a wire going to ground, use the same thickness wire as you used on the horn plus and battery wires. If you look at the relay bottom you should see which prong is what, or you will see some numbers for each contact. Sorry, but it's early in the morning and I haven't had my coffee yet, and I'm also getting senile so I don't remember what number is what. I'm sure some younger person like FF knows on the top of their head which number is what... There's today's lesson in electricity!

Hey Blue Sky, sounds like you're suffering from getanewone syndrome...

If you do decide on swapping your starter motor to a 4 brush, and 2nd Gen starter is a direct bolt on! You should be able to find one on eBay for well under $100, like in the neighborhood or around $70.

Back in '09 when I had the great electrical fire on my '84, the wife said to me "Why don't you just buy a new one??" Within 24 hours I had my '09 RSV...

Happy Wife, happy life!!!

Hey Lewis!! As usual, I didn't respond immediately but of course, when I read this earlier I immediately prayed!!

Hey YPC, welcome!!! There are quite a few VR members close to you in TO and surrounding areas so you will have plenty of riding buddies!! Hope to meet you either at the July Niagara Falls Rallye or the August Western NY Northeast Regional Rally in August, if not sooner!

OK, no problem at all, sell it to your friend!! I had a deal literally fall into my lap, so since February I literally own one for a SONG!! Thank you very much for being my friend!! That means a lot to me!!! EDIT: Yes, we are both very happy and healthy, but not the case a couple of weeks ago, we both were sick but now are fine!! We are leaving on vacation next week for a month!

July is the Ontario, Canada Rallye. August is the Western New York Northeast Regional Rally.

Holy cow, Abdul, yes, I completely forgot!!! In the meantime, I came in possession of one over the winter, but I am still interested!! If you can hold on to it until July I plan on making the Niagara Falls Rally, or if you can transport it to Caledonia Wizard765 comes over here often, as a matter of fact, he was just here today! I know, why would I want two?? Well, I'll keep the brand new one for myself and donate the used one for a door prize or something like that...

Made me think of this song...

At least it's not a V Twin...

The original purpose of the probe was to alert you if your electrolyte in your battery was low which could have prevented you from being stranded somewhere with a dead battery. It went into the middle cell of your battery. As long as there was liquid at the level of the probe it "sensed" 6 volts but as soon as the level went below the probe it saw zero volts and triggered the logic circuit in the Computerized Monitoring Unit (CMU). Depending on what type of battery you buy for a replacement, it may or may not accommodate the probe. Sometimes the probe would get dirty or corroded and quit working. There is detailed information on how to bypass the probe and fool the CMU into thinking everything is all right. It requires a resistor anywhere within 2000 ohms to 4000 ohms, 1/8 to 12/4 Watt to be installed in series with the probe wire to 12 volts accessory. In simple terms, in series means to solder one end of the resistor to the probe wire, and attach the other end, via a wire, to the accessory terminal on the fuse block. If you do not use this series voltage dropping resistor you will fry the circuit in the CMU. You also do not really want to hook up the resistor directly to the battery as it will very slowly drain the battery as the bike is stored...

As far as antifreeze goes, a 50/50 mixture provides the optimum protection regardless of what engine it goes in! Tap water is OK, but distilled water only costs about a dollar a gallon at any supermarket, so why not invest in it and not worry about any contaminants in your tap water???

What, a Harley that shook a part off at idle?? Unheard of...

When she had her Voyager kit, Aussie Annie has the perfect name for it, she called it a "Quike!!"

Stupid is as stupid does, I guess...

It seems to me that someone several years ago mentioned opening up the hole just a tad to let more oil through...

Hey, defecation occurs...

OK, the first thing to check is whether or not 12 volts is getting TO the switch!! Perhaps the best way is to see if You have 12 volts going to the 10 amp "Odometer" fuse. You should have 12 volts coming through your 30 amp main fuse. See schematic... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf

There's a lot of $5.00 automotive fuel filters that will work! Fuel pumps on the 1st gen don't fail that often...