bongobobny

That depends on how much money you want to spend! The most expensive conversion is to go with the Barnett kit. A cheaper upgrade is to replace your clutch spring with a thicker PCW Racing spring. Member Skydoc_17 (Earl Harrell) sells these. There is also an upgraded Heavy Duty Yamaha clutch disc which has about twice the area of the stock one. Do a search and there is a nice step by step instruction article complete with pictures here on the site...

Glad to be of assistance! You will find out we are one big happy family around here!

I believe the book calls for 15W45, so 10W30 is way too light. A lot of us use Diesel engine oil, with Shell Rotella T being the most popular. Here's another remote possibility. Is there, by any chance, an aftermarket metal radiator cover on the bike? If there is one and it was not properly installed with the rubber bumpers on it the grill can and will vibrate and hit the radiator on the edge making a terrible racket at certain RPM's. Speaking of RPM's, you are not trying to drive your bike like a Harley, are you? These V4's like higher RPM's as your power band doesn't even start until above 3500 RPM! Maybe you are lugging your engine! To give you an example, 1st gear should be good for 20 to 25 MPH, 2nd up to 35 to 40, 3rd gear around 50, 4th up to 65 to 70, and don't even THINK of using 5th under 60! To give you another example, the top speed in 3rd gear is around 90 MPH! The bike has a rev limiter so you won't hurt the engine by over-revving it! Your fuel economy actually is less at lower RPM's than at higher RPM's! Perhaps if you could make a sound clip of what it sounds like we can analyze it better...

See my comment on your other thread...

Find an 18" rim from a Yamaha Stratoliner, they are plug and play...

+1 for clogged air vent tube on the gas tank...

What it could be is the notorious "popping during deceleration" which is usually caused by the Air Injection System. The AIS is known for causing this and you have one of two options, either fix it properly or eliminate it completely! Do a little search here on the site and you should find adequate information on this. There is also a downloadable factory service manual here in the Read Only Technical forum. There is also a remote possibility that your Throttle Position Sensor can be dirty, but I kind of doubt it because you are only noticing it on deceleration. I kind of doubt it is a rod knock as these engines are pretty much bulletproof. Improper carb sync will just make them run a little rough, run a little hotter, and lower your MPG. Have you changed the oil yet?? Make sure you use the proper oil in your engine as you have a "wet" clutch and you do NOT want to use any oil with friction modifiers in them as that will cause your clutch to slip...

Hey Cougar, long time!! Have you tried jacking up the front of your trike with a hydraulic jack?? Jack up either side on the floorboard mounting brackets and you will find you can lift the whole front off of the ground as far as the jack will let you!! I can get the front tire on mine a good foot or two off the ground on mine! Just make sure you chock the rear wheels. Take the front tire off and you have plenty of room to pull the forks right off! If you are replacing your triple tree bearings make sure you replace the races as well, as they will be worn in by the old bearings and if you don't replace them the new ones will wear faster...

BTW the brown stuff on your board that looks like somebody threw up on it is quite normal, it's called a conformal coating and it's on there on purpose! It's there for waterproofing! Yes, there are altogether 8 diodes on the board that can and do go bad and should be replaced with 1N400(X) (ie 1N4001, 1N4002, etc) If your tach is bouncing around it is most likely a bad coil trigger signal to the #2 coil which also drives the tach... BTW the '83 TCI can only be replaced with another TCI from an '83 because of where the vacuum comes from for the advance. they are 180 degrees out of phase from the '84 - '89. Also, the '90 thru '93 only uses one pickup coil for ignition sense as opposed to two coils on the '83 - '89. You can get the '84 - '89 to work on the '83 but you have to change the vacuum from the carburetor to manifold vacuum, or if you are really good, change the polarity on the vacuum (boost) sensor...

Yup, all you end up doing is having the excess oil blow out through the ventilation system and all that oil ends up in your airbox mostly. To read the oil level, as mentioned, the bike needs to be as straight up as possible like on the center stand. The bike needs to be cold and hopefully not been running for several hours as it takes forever for all the oil to drain into the crankcase. The VMax and Venture carbs are very similar with the only real difference being in how they are metered! What is really important is proper synchronization of all 4 of them AND proper air/fuel mixture on them!! Buy the Damon Ferraiuolo videos as that guy knows exactly what he is doing and will give you some great insight on how to properly tear them down and properly reassemble them! The guy is a PRO!!!

That is a fair price, and yes the din connector is for the CD changer. The CD changer is more trouble than what it is worth! Your CB unit is under the trunk mounting rack. You can always counter offer $8000 even and see if they will bite...

Welcome back!! Are you hiding from the NY State Police after stealing that RSV?? Hope to see it in person at the WNY NE Regional Rally in Chaffee, NY this summer or sooner!!

Yes, the CMU is looking for a specific current to work the reed switches, but you can always jumper the switches... PS the clicking (I missed the "89 VR" on the title) is the relay for the anti-dive solenoids which is activated when the brakes are applied...

I will rent a two-bed room, Wizard765 was going to share with me but he is not making it, so if anyone wants to share a room contact me...

OK, you don't list what year you own, but all years are pretty much the same. As Kevin mentioned there are 4 wires on the brake light switch normally, two for the brake light and two for the cruise control. If you have an MK1 without cruise control you may very well only have 2 wires on your switch, I seem to remember something about that. Anyway, the two wires you need to look at are the Brown and the Yellow wires. The brown wire has 12 volts from the signal fuse. this same wire goes to the rear brake switch as well, so I will assume that the 12 volts you measured is on the Brown wire. Now the Yellow line is the wire that goes to the actual brake light. Obviously the rear works so everything going to the light must be OK. The yellow wires from both front and rear are tied together. What you want to do is press the brake lever and look for the 12 volts to be transferred to the yellow wire. If it does not then your switch is bad. One usual issue with the front brake switch is the little plastic tab that holds the switch in place gets worn and the switch is no longer held in its proper position. When this happens the switch never actuates even though there is nothing electrically wrong with it. Check and make sure the switch is fully pushed in before going any further. The switch works backward from what you may think, with no brake applied, the switch is actually pushed in, and when you apply the brake the switch is released. This is why when the switch is not in its proper location the brake light never comes on. Your cruise control will also never work in this condition as it thinks you are applying the brake! Here's a link to wiring diagrams... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?42358-1st-Gen-Wiring-Schematics-1983-1993

OK, I see you already found the overpriced controller from Pinwall on eBay. I read Watering Hole before I get to the Tech Forums. Now, exactly what makes you think the issue is with the controller and not the actual pump assembly located under the trunk below the black cover?? An E1 error can mean either one of the reed valves or the motor is defective. Also, there is a moisture remover that is shaped like a canister that has a silicon desiccant inside that should be blue colored but is probably pink. Fix that by removing the desiccant and bake it. There is also a one-way valve for the air that gets plugged up and a foam filter that can get clogged. To answer your question, the CLASS is the same for all 1st gen 83 through 93. There is a downloadable service manual available on this site... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals Also, contact member Marcarl, he has serviced the pump assembly a few times and knows it pretty well! The controller is just that, an electronic device that controls the actual pump assembly! if it lights up it pretty much works! Other than the infamous E4 all other codes usually mean something is wrong with the pump assembly itself!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-1993-Yamaha-Venture-XVZ1300-XVZ1200-CLASS-CONTROL-AIR-SUSPENSION-CONTROL/382389137368?hash=item59082b2fd8:g:ELkAAOSw145ajzFW

Done!

With cataract surgery, you might want to consult your surgeon about riding motorcycles. It will probably be OK, the only concern is vibrations. Other than that you will be fine pretty much the next day...

You need the Butler Butt Mod done! Rick Butler, a member here does a mod on the seat that makes it sooo much more comfortable! You can also try using a sheepskin, or find a newer RSV pillowtop seat, but even them can be a ball buster...

Yup, the Red Roof in Elyria where we stayed the last time 2 years ago. As far as Red Roofs go, it is a better one!

I absolutely LOVE the Valkyrie and would love to own one, but like you, I already have my RSV trike...

Wow!! Really hope to see you there, John!!!

What Don said!! Lemme see, proper etiquette for Md. Hmmm... Well, there is basic BS, advanced BS, and professional BS! Bring along a friendly smile and be prepared to use it a lot! Make sure your tongue stays lubricated because you will have to use it a lot along with lips and lungs! As far as tools, well just some basic ones and maybe if you have some kind of specialty tool that would be fine but there will be plenty of tools there as most of us bring some. MD is designed to do some basic stuff only, not major projects like valve jobs. Generally, it is tune-ups, oil changes, an occasional clutch replacement, etc but sometimes a semi-major project might come up. If you have surplus stuff you want to give away you can bring it. There generally is a table to put things you either want to give away or sell. There is also a prize giveaway that we buy tickets for a chance to win. There is usually more than one prize providing Don is planning one this year as usual. Be prepared to meet one of the nicest Motley Crews you ever could expect to meet in your life and be prepared to meet some lifetime friends as well!! As said many times before, this ain't no website, this is a family!!!

Yup, CLASS is only supposed to work on Acc, it's a safety feature!! They didn't think it would be a good idea to be tweaking your suspension dynamics on the fly! I sort of agree with that... Your vibration can be a multitude of things! The first thing I would check is the proper torque on the head bearings. I would also consider replacing your neck bearings regardless as they are very old, and the grease in them may have changed to glue. There also can be an issue with the rear tire, or bushings on the swing arm, etc, etc, etc! Front forks. Replace the fork seals with OEM, not aftermarket, too many aftermarket ones leak! You may also want to consider replacing your old worn out springs with a new set of Progressive brand springs and new shock oil. There was never a set of rubber boots over the fork tubes from the factory, what you saw was most likely aftermarket. Other than being ugly, they do protect the upper tubes from getting pits and dings which lead to minor leaking... Your cruise control vacuum actuator is located on the left side upper fairing bracket...