bongobobny

For the Slingshot, it depends upon the state as to whether it is classified as a motorcycle or a car. When they first came out this was a long drawn out process and until each state decided, the Slingshot could not be sold in that state. It may depend on what state the vehicle is registered in...

OMG that just scared me too, Ben!! Somebody pass the brain bleach...

Yup, I've bought tons of stuff off of eBay and normally I am very satisfied but every once in a while you do run into a scumball but eBay is excellent at handling those situations...

Run a few tankfuls with a can of Seafoam in each tank, that stuff does a fairly decent job on blowing out the carbon. There is an old school trick for cars that have a carbon buildup, and may work on a motorcycle as well, but do AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! At high idle, use an eyedropper and slowly drip plain old distilled water through the carbs. The water sort of literally explodes the carbon off when it gets compressed. The water atomizes and bounces around knocking the carbon off. Once again, this was used on old cars that had a lot of carbon buildup and if it killed them it didn't matter because the car was old and high mileage anyways but proved very effective in getting some more life out of an otherwise tired old engine...

Already booked a room at the Red Roof, but if everybody changes, I will too...

I am actually laughing about the statement or "banning AR's and similar LOOKING weapons..." So, it will be OK to sell a rifle with perhaps superior power of the Armolite Rifle as long as it doesn't look like the AR??? Oh, if those idiots only actually knew something...

Yup! Been a fan of speed bleeders for years and years! Used them on cars too!

You should be able to find a new slave for a lot less than what your local stealer wants for one. Try partzilla or boats.net instead, they are probably around $80 now. A lot of us have tried rebuilding and even with honing the bore a lot of times they start leaking after a few months or so. Sometimes they will last for a couple of years before failing again, but a new one will last for many years. BTW I am pretty sure the slaves are the same for the 2nd generation Ventures as the 1st generations. As far as that crush washer goes, I too have reused them with no problems. What I do is I take a piece of 800 grit sandpaper and flat lap both sides before reinstalling to give you a refurbished surface for the washer to be crushed against. To flat lap, you just put the sandpaper on a flat surface and take the washer and using your fingertip move the washer on the sandpaper in a figure 8 pattern for a while. Go in one direction like ccw for a while and then go in the other direction. Do both sides that way. Also, when you put a new gasket on, make sure both metal surfaces are clean as a whistle for a proper seal...

Hey Stan, if the bell is for you, let me buy it for you because the legend says that you aren't supposed to buy a bell for yourself...

Hey, get in touch with the WNY crew when you are up here, we will gladly schedule a M&E and show you around the area. As far as the ride down there is a distinct possibility I may cage it due to health reasons but that is up in the air but you are welcome to hook up anyway...

Well, it could be the actual switch in the controller, but what it could also be is the connector from the controller into the main unit. This is a common problem for some kind of strange issue happening due to corrosion on those connectors. What needs to happen is to split your fairing to gain access to these connectors and clean both ends of the connectors with a spray electrical contact cleaner and then plug and unplug the connector several times to help clean the metal. When you finally get done re-seating the connectors smear a little dielectric grease on the plastic part of the connectors prior to the final connection to keep moisture out of them, but be very careful not to get the grease on the metal as the grease is an insulator so you will end up defeating the whole process of cleaning the connections...

What everybody above says!!! Unless you want to spend endless hours re jetting and tweaking your carbs, non stock filters are a bad thing. Along with the tweaking, you will also need to re-synchronize your carbs every time you do any changes. The fact that you stated popping on deceleration suggests at very least your synchronization is off, but you may also have an issue with your air injection system on the exhaust...

You may be better served just replacing the slave cylinder with a new one. They are not that expensive and they are the same for all Ventures 1st and 2nd gen. Many of us have rebuilt those slaves only to have them fail a short time later. It is a hit and miss situation, and honing the cylinder is absolutely essential and if you don't do a good job they end up leaking again...

Yup, that seems to be around the time Avon was having trouble with their tires from what I remember. Before that it was the Metzler 880's throwing chunks of rubber off of the tire. OK, this morning's best try... Street Tires Under Pressured Is Deadly!!!

Yup, that was going to be my suggestion, wheel bearings! Try to jack the bike up so the front wheel is off the ground and spin the wheel and apply the brakes to try to duplicate the sound. I'm betting you won't be able to duplicate it if the bearings are bad as there needs to be a load on the tire to make them grind...

Cool beans!!! Maybe someday we will see you and the bike in person somewhere!

Yes, I can understand the conflict possibly, the 15th is Father's Day. My Step-daughter is a little disappointed I will be gone for the day but that's life sometimes...

...and they fixed the stator cooling problem in '84!

I'm assuming you mean the big ignition switch cover on the gas tank, and I recall you installed risers on your handlebars. That being the case you do not want to use those chrome covers as the handlebars will hit with the risers and the next thing you ,know you, have a piece of plastic broken off!! Also, they do not stay shiny for very long, they are cheap ABS plastic with an inferior plating on them...

Yes, the R/R should be mounted to the frame for heat dissipation. The R/R has cooling fins but it needs a heat sink such as the frame which represents a huge piece of metal for the heat to go. You could even go as far as to use a heat transfer compound which is like a white paste to help mate the two surfaces...

Running properly you should get around 40 mpg...

There are a few members that are truckers, like IH Truck Guy and Walter from Missouri whose screen name I have forgotten who aren't active here any more, and I'm sure there are others...

I'm thinking you will be very happy with that 2nd gen! According to his crooklist ad he has a different bike and doesn't need this one. In the picture I see a nice 2nd gen next to his 1st gen. I wonder if he is a member here...

Not to worry, Carl, there will be food and drinks for those that show up!!!

Actually Scott, he DID offer to install it for free but I backed out of that for several reasons. The old engine is still in the bike, the rear shock is out and the rear wheel is off, and I ain't waiting ANOTHER 5 - 6 years to get it back!!! Besides that, they are c;ear across the state from me. OK, here's what happened with the delay. They were in one location when I first dropped off the engine, and then they moved to a different location on the other side of town. I guess that location didn't work out so well and the owner moved out of town and into the country and set up his own shop. They are just now getting the building up and running so time will tell but they did let me know via email that they should be testing and shipping soon.