bongobobny

https://www.facebook.com/NomadicFanaticUnite/videos/1797139990350563/ Click on the picture to see the video...

I have a sneaking suspicion of who may have texted Puc and why, someone taking exception of Puc's opinion on something...

Yup. carb sync is the number 1 cause of popping on decel, and an issue with the Air Injection System is #2 !

Chaharley is correct, the MK1 and MK2 clutches are different...

Here's a start for you... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf Now, you can bypass a lot of safety features by putting a ground on the Black/White wire on the TCI box but the downside is you can start in gear without the clutch squeezed, with the kickstand down, etc. The kickstand issue should not be an issue as a trike, but the starting in gear with the clutch engaged can be a safety issue...

Yup! An unfortunate fact of life is the High Output stators don't last as long! Life is always a trade-off or compromise, you get one thing at the cost of another. That being said, you stated that the replacement was billed as a long life one! Not very long IMHO!! I wish I could give you the answer you are looking for but instead, I'll say DON'T buy a Chinese one! Rick's stators seem to be a good one, and I've heard RPM is supposedly good as well. The bottom line? Just as John Arbuckle said, you get what you pay for...

You can use the 1157's which are a lot cheaper! The difference is that the 1157 has only 2 prongs, not 3. You just cut or grind off one of the prongs and it works fine! I believe you keep the prong that is closest to the edge but I'm not sure, it's been many years since I converted to LED's

The difference is whether or not the link showed US dollars or Aussie dollars! Yup, for that price you can almost buy ready made plug wire sets complete with the caps that are designed for the Venture!!! Here's a start in your search, I checked eBay but didn't see anything specific today... https://search.myway.com/search/GGmain.jhtml?searchfor=spark+plug+wires+for+1988+yamaha+venture+&tpr=hpsb&st=hp&qs=&n=

Thanks for the compliment!! The black cover for the compressor module is directly under the trunk mounting rack, so the trunk and the mounting rack both have to be removed to access the unit. The seat does not have to be removed just to get to the unit, but it is a good idea to do so to gain access to the connecting plug, etc. Myself I would suspect the leak is either a loose hose or a bad o ring on the end of the hose. The hose itself could be bad and if it is then good luck finding a replacement, you will probably end up using another used one or having one specially made up. Yes, the solenoid could possibly cause a leak as well. Talk to Carl as he has actually serviced the solenoids by disassembling them!

Yup! My response is "Don't do it!"

A stationary drop would not cause grooves like that. It was more than likely a low-speed parking lot drop, or possibly a low to medium speed one. Your most recent pictures reveal the repaint wasn't as good as I thought, but so what!! For the price you paid and the mileage, cosmetics should be of little concern. The mechanical condition should be what is important! I still think you done good...

No specific "Motorcycle" antifreeze, but you need to make sure it is safe to use on aluminum for our particular motorcycles. I generally use Prestone myself...

For your own protection, I recommend you do a search on the serial number...

It's an obvious repaint and a very good one at that! The VIN will tell you what year it actually is...

OK, my spin on things! Let me start with driving in the rain. As far as gloves go, buy yourself a pair of rubber gloves just like the ones your Mother used to do the dishes in the largest size you can find. An alternative is rubber gloves for handling hazardous waste. You want them in the largest size possible so they slip over your riding gloves. Word of warning put them on BEFORE it rains, if your gloves are even slightly wet you will have a struggle getting them on! You can also get a smaller size and only wear them and not your gloves under them. As far as the windshield goes, use furniture polish in an aerosol can such as Pledge, Favour, etc. and clean your windshield with it! This will cause the rain to bead up and roll off of the shield. The faster you go, the clearer your shield becomes! The last thing to do is invest in a pair of yellow lense hunting glasses!! You will be amazed at just how much the yellow lenses brighten up your vision in the rain!!! As far as the driving lights go, it depends on how they were wired. Some have them wired so that they are only on with the high beam, and some are wired to come on regardless if the headlight is on high or low. The difference is whether they were wired as passing lights or driving lights. They are single filament so they are only one level, not two. I personally have mine wired as driving lights so I can turn them on or off at will regardless of what the headlight is. Myself I am NOT a fan of the headlight modulators as there is a possibility that some idiot could mistake them for turn signals and pull out in front of you from a side street. I would rather have several pairs of lights in the front such as LED strip lights, running lights, and driving lights to get other people's attention. To each their own..., For mounting your phone, I highly recommend the RAM mount. I prefer linking my phone through Bluetooth to my GPS and having it linked to the audio system and keep my phone securely in my pocket so that way I don't accidentally leave it on the bike but once again to each their own. I understand your need to have it visible but the only real place is on the handlebars but off to the side so you don't block the speedometer. The RAM mount will elevate it up so it won't block the dash as much... As far as performance mods go, there isn't a heck of a lot available that really do much. The free-flowing exhaust doesn't make them faster, it just makes them louder. You need to open up the intake side of the motor to make any real changes with opening up the exhaust side, and it will cost you fuel economy. One of the best performance mods you can do is swap out your stock RSV differential with a VMax differential which changes the whole RPM vs speed aspect. The RSV is pretty quick as is if driven right... I'm sure others will have differing opinions here...

Oh, I agree they offer better protection, Camos!

If it starts, runs, and stops, I'm reporting you to the police as you stole that bike!

Here is the PROPER way to fix the battery sensor. Under that insulator, there should be a resistor with a value of around 2000 to 4000 ohms. One end of the resistor goes to the sensor wire, and the other end goes to ACCESSORY, not directly to the battery!!! Although the current draw is small, it is still there, and after a couple of weeks setting it could drain the battery.

Hi KISA! They are an aftermarket product and are generic. They are designed to fit many brands of motorcycles. Yes, they are a very good idea! There are also rubber covers you can buy new called "Gaters" that work well but not as pretty. Hope this translates OK.

I remember somebody handing me one when we were looking for the little chrome cap I dropped, maybe Jim Crane?? (JCFolly) Did you find it in the garage where Phil's bike was??

To my knowledge, they are the same OEM with the difference being in the plastic chrome only...

Feel free to ask away to us Hannigan owners!

If your carbs are out of sync that makes the engine run hotter. Also, how old is the thermostat?? You should be getting around 40 mpg, so if you are only getting 34 then something is wrong. Without reading through this whole thread, are you sure you are firing on all 4? These bikes can and will run quite well on just 3 cylinders. Perhaps you should invest in a spark gap tester and confirm you have good spark on all 4. You should be able to draw a minimum of 0.100" spark. I believe the factory spec is 0.109" or something like that. There are several things that can cause a weak spark, the dreaded green corrosion on the coil secondary, old wires, corrosion in the guts of the plug caps, etc. I'm surprised you are having issues with crosswinds as normally this is not an issue. Perhaps part of the issue is with the swingarm suspension needing cleaning and lubricating. There are bushings for the shock arm that wear out and/or get dry. The main bearings for the arm may get worn, etc. That may contribute to crosswind resistance if the suspension is too rigid. Then again maybe it doesn't... Yes, fuel grade can effect spark knock, but that is usually an indication of other issues such as valve adjustment, carb adjustment, or perhaps a defective boost sensor. The 1st gen should run satisfactorily on 87 octane fuel IF it is properly tuned up. This includes the valve, carb, and ignition tuning. I did have a slight issue with spark knock that higher octane did seem to cure until I replaced my spark plugs. Our bikes are extremely rough on plugs and seem to need replacing with as little as 5K on them sometimes. NGK's seem to work best, and yes it is worth the extra money to invest in the Iridium plugs...

Yes, it was designed so that you can not adjust the suspension while on the fly! It's never a good idea to change your suspension dynamics while in motion...

Ya done good, my friend!!