bongobobny

OK, 11.3 volts should be good enough! As far as that 22 pin "E" connector which should be under the tank along with a 20 pin connector, as long as you have voltage at the coils then everything should be pretty much OK. What you should have been looking for on the E connector would be the pin with the Red/Black wire and there should be 12 volts there on both ends when the connector is connected. I am assuming you see the number 61 on the X 200K (200,000) scale. That means you are seeing 61,000 ohms or 61K ohms. K stands for Kilo, or 1000. If you switch your ohmmeter to a lower scale such as X 20K is should read open as that scale can only read 20,000ohms maximum. As soon as Wayne and Carl get here I will talk Wayne into letting me read his tip-over switch resistance, and if his is also 21K I will find a 22K resistor and mail it to you so you can try jumpering the connector with it. Perhaps 61K is too high and at first, it will allow the bike to start but as soon as the charging system of the bike kicks in the voltage drop across the resistor is too much and it kills the spark!

Unlike a 2 wheeler that lays on its side when it falls over, with a trike it will end up upside down, and two things happen. First, it gets no gas because the bottom of the tank becomes the top. The second thing is all the engine oil pours into the upper area and that will foul out the plugs... Yes Jeff, you are technically right...

Speaking for Steamer, probably because you pretty much have to disassemble half of the cooling system to get to the switch. I have a fellow venturerider person with a 2nd gen coming over tomorrow afternoon, so maybe I can talk him into pulling his tank back so I can read the resistance of his switch. If his comes out to around 22K ohms too, I will buy Steamer a 22K resistor and drop it in the mail for him to jumper his switch. You really don't need a tip-over switch on a trike...

Well, I found a 33K ohm 5% resistor and read it with my ohmmeter and it read 32.4K ohms so I am going to assume mine is close enough. So, Steamer, we need to test your ohmmeter somehow and see how close yours is. With 60K ohms maybe that is causing the voltage drop to be something that is out of tolerance for the kill circuit just enough to make it intermittent acting. Still concerned with only 10 volts on your coils. Have you rechecked it with your freshly charged battery?? Did you ever check that 22 pin connector "E" and measure the voltage there? According to the schematic, that is where the coil voltage departs from the main harness and heads for the coils... Per my suggestion, try to find a 22K ohm resistor and jumper it across your disconnected plug for the tip-over so that the ignitor sees that much resistance and not 60K ohms. If you want, I can send you the 33K ohm resistor I found in the mail to try...

Yes, I saw that the other day!! Good old 1st Gen has the power!!!

OK, I just got back in after pulling my tank and right side neck cover to access the connector for the tip-over switch and found that with the switch unplugged my bike will not start! I measured the resistance across my switch and came up with 21.4K ohms, so kudos to Outcast for knowing something we did not know!! On the 1st gen model it was a matter of the Black/White wire either seeing ground or open, and also part of the ignition kill circuit did the same thing if you tried to put it in gear and let the clutch out with the kickstand down! On the 2nd Gen, only the tip-over is on that circuit. Now, the problem being Steamer is seeing around 60K ohms, not the 22K ohms I am seeing. Now, it is two different meters so I would expect some difference, mine being a cheap $5 Harbor Freight one, but I'm thinking his meter is probably pretty close as he did see around 200 ohms on his pickup coil. I'll have to find some resistors I may have left over from my electronic days and see how close mine is on the 200K scale... As of this morning, Steamer reported that he is seeing around 10 volts on his coil and it did start a couple of times for about 5 seconds and then died, and now his starter solenoid may have given up the ghost as now the starter motor is dead. His battery is showing a full charge...

Steamer's bike is triked, Baylensman, so the kickstand switch is non-existent, but good thought! What bothers me is the fact that he did not see any voltage on the coils with the key on. 12 volts should be there at all times directly through the Red and Black wire that comes from the kill switch. That 12 volts are obviously there as the bike cranks all the time regardless, which would also eliminate the starter solenoid as being bad. Unfortunately, Steamer and Rockin Robin are about two hours away from here so it's kind of hard to just pop on over to help him. Right now I have given him a spot to look for the 12 volts on the "E" connector as at that connector the Red and Black wire departs the main harness and heads for the coils. What is strange is yesterday the bike did start and run for about 5 seconds for him and died. All of the time his engine warning light is pulsing rapidly which is a clue but we haven't figured out what it means. According to Steamer, it is a rapid flashing, much faster than what an error code would look like, and it only does it when cranking the bike over. Very strange! I am going to try to get to my tip-over switch and pull the connector off and see if mine will still start, and also read the resistance across the connector. Steamer said he was seeing around 60 ohms across it which seems strange to me...

Were you in Canada recently???

Yup, those are the ones you want. Those are MK1. The guy wants waaaay too much, especially when those crash bars are rashed so bad... I'm not sure what they mean by "remanufactured" either.

Yup, you got screwed out of the mounting brackets! There are two styles, one for the MK1 and one for the MK2...

The carbs should be sync'ed once a year, and just run a can of seafoam to a tank of gas maybe once a month to keep them clean. Suggested valve adjustment is 50,000 miles but as already mentioned, if it starts easily you should be ok for now. I've heard of a case of a Venture with around 300,00 miles on it. You should normally get over 200,000 miles with normal maintenance, they are pretty much bulletproof. $1900 is a fair price but not necessarily the deal of the century. Offer $1500 cash and see what happens. Cash talks, BS walks... Not a clue as to what they mean by updates, I would certainly ask as to what updates were done! Check the date code on the tires, you do NOT want to use any tire, car or motorcycle (especially motorcycle) that is older than 6 years old as stated by tire manufacturers. Hydraulic fluids should be changed every 2 to 4 years, and the cooling system should be flushed every 4 - 5 years. The driveshaft splines need to be greased every time you change a rear tire. Spark plugs should be replaced about every 10,000 miles or less as these bikes are known to eat them! Overall these are very dependable bikes and perhaps the most advanced touring bike for its time ever made. They are fast and handle a little bit like a sports bike. For the most part, they are very easy to work on, but if you have to rebuild the carbs they are very complicated and to do it properly cost a small fortune for replacement parts. Adjusting the valves is also a bit complicated as they use shims and require a special tool and it is easy to screw up if not done properly. It can be done without removing the engine. Bottom line, if it does run and stop OK then swing a leg over and decide if it is the kind of bike for you. Warning, it is a tall and big heavy bike but they will give you years and miles of smiles!

Complete with a pan under it to catch the oil! Hmmm, maybe I found a new meaning to the term "Panhead"... Actually, cool looking old Harley!

Wait a minute, your Motor repair labor estimate guide is suggesting you be a slowpoke???

Well, there is quite the checklist go through from here, Bob. Unfortunately, we are leaving for the afternoon so I am not available on the phone for you. I do have a spare untested TCI you are welcome to borrow or keep if needed. I'm a little hesitant to blame the TCI as they are not a high fatality device on the 2nd Gen. If the ignition fuse were bad the starter would never turn over so scratch that... Maybe an issue with the pickup coil??

Actually, it is the second generation of the Venture (99 - 14) that are top heavy, not the first generation (83 - 93). The first gens are just a tad tall but very nimble and agile. The second generations claim to fame is the comfort. Regardless, you have a very nice looking one there for a good price, hope you enjoy miles and miles on it!!!

It's metric, M10 I believe. Not sure of the pitch, but if you buy a nut of the same pitch you're in like Flint! From what I remember it is a through bolt with a nut... Maybe someone has a spare one laying around that they will ship you.

That style won't work for you! That has a common for all the fuses, and you need one that treats the fuses as inline fuses... Contact Earl, Skydoc_17 as he sells the complete kit for you, and his prices are very reasonable!

There ya go! MacGyvering at its best!! Your passenger will love them!!

Yup! What Don said! The problem being, the Service manual does not even mention the tip-over switch! It only appears on the schematic! I have always thought it was normally closed and open when the bike tips over, but I could be wrong! Here's something to look at for you! You said you hit a nasty bump. Look in the area where the fuel pump and filter are, and in the center hooked onto a tab with a rubber hanger is your starting circuit cut off relay. Make sure it is still suspended on that hook. Here's what can happen, it happened to me and others. The relay falls down and rests on the engine. Eventually, the heat from the engine melts the plastic case and causes a ground where a ground isn't supposed to be. This can cause all sorts of electrical symptoms to include not starting! With mine, once heated up I had autostart (the starter was always on) and 2 red indicator lights for low oil level and overheating came on! Getting back to the tip-over, try starting with it disconnected, and then try with the switch jumpered. If the switch is the problem one way will work and not the other way...

If I remember right, they were made by a FORMER member Dingy, but maybe it was someone else like Flying Fool, or maybe Earl, Skydoc_17 will know. Me, I like my anti-dives...

OK Steamer, just testing for understanding (TFU). You do know that it is normal with the key on for the fuel pump to only run for a couple of seconds and then shut off until the bike is running?? It's a safety feature they've had since the 1st gen model... I would start with a spark tester to see if you have spark at all when cranking over. There are two sparks per cycle on ours, 1 for ignition, and a second at 180 degrees to burn off any leftover vapors. You should be able to draw at least a 0.100" spark. The testers are available at Auto Zone, Advanced, etc. I will ponder the wiring diagram after church. As far as the tip over sensor, seeing as you have a trike I would just jumper the switch...

It's a reasonable price, offer him $4500 citing the fact you have to replace tires and do a lot of Preventative Maintenance as well. Settle for $5000...

Just ordered mine yesterday, cost just under $60 including shipping...

This is strictly a 2nd gen issue along with the ignition switch...

Facet 40171/ss171... http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php