bongobobny

Those look a little pricey IMHO. You may be better off with the Polk DB401's at around half the price. Once again the stock system is not all that powerful, and regardless of how efficient the replacement speakers are the sound quality is going to be limited by its size. Just like engines, there is no replacement for displacement! The issue with power amps is making them weather resistant and finding the area to mount them. Regardless of that, the speaker size is going to be the limiting factor! There is a reason why I gave up on my project, you need two amps, one for the front speakers and one for the rear. Weatherproofing isn't that big of a deal, spray varnish over everything helps, but finding the room is the other issue. There is just so much room in the fairing and that's it... Good earphones and your cell phone is the ultimate answer!

Most, if not all automotive speakers are somewhat "weather resistant" as opposed to a lot of the cheaper home speakers. As mentioned above you want to avoid paper cones like the plague! Marine speakers are more than just water resistant, they also have to be corrosion resistant as well!! When you think marine, think salt water... There should be a thin nylon mesh material under the speaker grille to prevent droplets of water from getting through but not muffle the sound. I can't remember if the 2nd gens have them, the 1st gens did. I've driven through the rain more than once with no damage done to either the front or rear speakers. The main thing is to improve on the dynamic range of the speakers which when you convert to coaxials it does just that. Just make sure whatever speakers you purchase that they have decent sized magnets like around 20 oz for higher power capabilities. Unfortunately, the stock Yamaha amplifier does not put out a lot of power but if you pick out speakers with a lower power capability you can overdrive the speakers into distortion, whereas if you pick out speakers with a large capacity you will not drive the speakers into distortion, but at full volume some distortion will occur in the amp itself. I actually did buy two booster amps to drive the front and rear speakers with more power but never pursued it. Also, unfortunately, there is no substitute for the total volume of air you can push. Going to a 5 1/2 inch speaker does indeed make a huge difference in fidelity and apparent volume level...

I'm not sure if the mounting holes will line up properly. I'm not 100% sure on this as it has been a few years since I upgraded my speakers but from what I remember the Yamaha speakers have a "square" frame and not a round frame which has different mounting holes. I used some Kenwood coaxials which helped over the stock single cone speakers. They were around $50 per pair from what I remember. These are just regular automotive speakers. The stock plastic enclosures that our motorcycles work pretty good to keep them dry, the stock speakers are not marine grade anyway! The trick is to buy replacement speakers that have plastic cones and not paper. As you stated, you don't plan on driving through any monsoons any time soon...

Has it been rainy or excessively humid where you live? The TCI's can trap moisture inside the case which will lead to problems. You may want to take the 4 screws out and remove the cover and look for accumulated moisture inside. A common cure is to remove the cover and bake the unit in the oven at 250 - 275 degrees Fahrenheit for an hour or two, and then use vasolene or synthetic grease and put a bead around the mating surface of the cover to help waterproof the unit... Relocating the TCI to the top of the airbox is also a common practice to help protect them from moisture.

Probably...

There is one important fact you need to know about as some side information. A built-in safety feature is that the fuel pump relay has a special circuit that only allows the fuel pump to run for a few seconds and then shut off until the engine starts! The actual time may vary due to slight differences in the circuit values. That means one relay may only run for 1 1/2 seconds whereas another may run for 4 seconds, etc. That being said, it is a little hard to predict just how dry a set of carbs may become overnight due to so many variables, but I also think you may have a valid "experiment" going on here. Can't give you an answer here as my 1st gen has been stored for several years now...

You might want to consider finding a set of fork lowers from an MK2 and then replace those anemic MK1 calipers with some R1/R6 calipers!! Unfortunately, that also includes replacing your front rotors with MK2 ones. A big plus is using the MK2 electric anti-dive solenoids instead of those power robbing hydraulic ones...

Two options... 1. Turn up the radio volume 2. Remove your muflers

Bigger is better, IMHO...

Hey, you Canadians spell different anyways...

Hmmm, you're right, Jeff! I should have looked at the schematic first... I sometimes get the two confused!

OK, let's get things straight here. When you turn the key to on does the headlight come on?? Does the dash boot up?? If not, with the ignition switch on and nothing works except the radio then your ignition switch is defective. If the headlight is on then the next thing is when you hit the start button does the light go off?? If not then your start switch is probably defective. There is a second set of contacts that turn the headlight off while cranking the bike over. As mentioned before, cycle the kill switch several times to try to clean the contacts. The switch needs to be in the CW position to work. Make sure you are in neutral!! Look for the green light! Try squeezing the clutch lever when starting, should not make any difference in neutral but it may be an indicator if it magically starts with the lever squeezed. As mentioned measure the battery voltage with the key off, and again with the key on. Your battery voltage should drop a tenth or so due to the headlight drawing current. Keep measuring when you hit the starter! With the start switch pressed it should still read around 12 volts, maybe 11... Get back to us!

Save yourself some money and use generic rubber vacuum hose. Just remember it is METRIC size when you purchase it...

Umm, maybe a leaky exhaust gasket???

Like he said, it belongs in a museum! Betcha he doesn't get a single bid at that price regardless of how nice it is...

OK, the 12 volts to the coil does NOT come from the TCI!! The TCI supplies a ground to the other side of the coil when it's time to spark that coil... I am ass-u-me'ing that you stated you see 12 volts at the coils with ignition on, and when the starter motor is turning you are seeing it drop down to about 10 volts which should be somewhat normal. To clear up Jeff is the battery also dropping down some when the starter motor is turning over? I would expect a fully charged battery to drop down to maybe 11.5 volts when the starter motor is turning over but then recover to around 12.5 volts or more when you stop turning over the starter motor... Once again with emphasis, the Stator and the R/R have absolutely NOTHING to do with the ignition circuit...

And here I thought you lost your cell phone from that empty mount...

You're all wrong!! Gold is the fastest Venture ever built...

OK then I'll explain that! Just before the rally, I asked everybody to bring along a rock, sized anywhere between a baseball and a basketball and a lot of people did making this waterfall special!!!

Perhaps one of the most effective ways to really clean out a tank, but not an easy way, is to remove the tank and put about 5 pounds of galvanized roofing nails in it, seal it up and play shake the can with a few friends for about an hour or so. When you're done then remove the roofing nails and give the tank a good flush with some sort of solvent. Myself, I would cote the tank with red cote or cream or any of the coating products out there...

My pleasure, my good friend, my pleasure!! You know you are always welcome at our house!!!

This afternoon we fired up the waterfall for the first time!! We still have some finishing stuff to do and I still have to find some bigger stones but here's the project!!

LMAO!!! Yup, knowing me, I probably would have done the same thing...

Woah!! Sorry to hear this but glad you're OK!! On a side note, we had a deer run into the side of the Impala a couple of evenings ago. I saw it leap from the center median just as the front of the car was at the same spot, and heard him hit (right on the "C" pillar) and saw him fly in my rear view mirror. Pulled over and saw no damage but notified 911 anyway as I had no clue about the status of the deer. Washed the car and found just a slight scratch in the paint that should buff out with no problems the next day. I know all about hitting a deer with the Venture, we were on the way back from MD and only had the bike for 4 days and 500 miles when we hit one head on! Managed to get stopped but it took a good quarter of a mile and the tank was slapping my thighs! Not a scratch to us but $6000 worth of damage to the bike...

Yayyyyy!!! Most likely reseating the connectors, especially the one for the pickup coils was the answer as corrosion is the enemy and reseating can clean them up!!