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RandyR

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Everything posted by RandyR

  1. RandyR
    I hope business is good for them. There have been too many shops close the last few years.
  2. RandyR
    good for him. But, he still won't be able to tell you what he does....
  3. RandyR
    yes sir. They get tighter, not looser with use. Somewhat counter intuitive, but happens this way as the valves pound/wear into the heads I'm told. So if I found one a little out of spec on the loose side I'd probably just leave it alone. Which brings up another line of thinking... What do those who've worked on the engines think about torquing to spec the head bolts as part of this procedure? And. if one ever torques the head bolts, should valve clearance be a must do follow-on procedure?
  4. RandyR
    your Mom is in our prayers
  5. RandyR

    Cody chili

    RandyR replied to Black Owl's topic in Watering Hole

    Are we going to have a 'donation' jar set out for the judges to be able to buy a bowl and spoon with, or some other way to help defray the cost of ingredients?
  6. RandyR
    Thats 1 lucky person's experience (you). Please don't tell everyone they don't need to check their machines based on your good luck. Of the dozen machines with over 26K that have used my kit they all required at least some adjustment.
  7. RandyR
    good to hear the news. take it easy for a while though.
  8. RandyR
    EBC makes 2 kinds of pads. Organic and metallic (HH I believe). The metallic are harder on the rotors. Organic pads are made with man made fibres such as Kevlar or Twaron bonded together with a petrochemical resin and sintered metal pads are copper alloy fused together under heat and pressure. http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/organic_brake_pads/index.shtml If one can lock up the wheel with organic pads, I see no reason to use metallic. That said, lots of people use them without ill effect to their rotors. There are a few other kinds of pad material available from other venders.
  9. RandyR
    Somewhere on this forum is a thread about placing a shim washer on one of the rear brake mounting bolts which is claimed to even out the wear.
  10. RandyR
    Here are a few pictures of Flyinfool's tool next to a commercial tool. We're planning on using it this weekend.
  11. RandyR

    Son's Wedding

    RandyR replied to Monty's topic in Watering Hole

    The best of all to the newly weds.
  12. RandyR
    Looks like a BMW airhead engine powering it. With legs dangling down like that, I suspect its only a matter of time until he breaks one of them. neat machine. I want one.
  13. RandyR
    If you recall there has been serious flooding along the Mississippi, which is where the Missouri feeds into.
  14. RandyR
    There's not many places one can use a bike like that, without getting in trouble with john law. putt putt putt
  15. RandyR
    IF your tach is wired to the stator, then that might explain how AC is getting into the system although its hard to imagine.
  16. RandyR
    they have a minivan.
  17. RandyR
    glad you're able to talk about it. the bike can be fixed or replaced.
  18. RandyR
    You got taken.
  19. RandyR
    good looking scoot
  20. RandyR
    Kent, glad you and Al made it home Ok, even if it had to be a 1,000m mile Monday. And thanks for the steering bearing and shock upgrade clinic on Friday, and tightening my steering bearings for me on Saturday. I should be able to do the ones on my Millenium now.
  21. RandyR
    Glad you found a seat that's more comfortable for you. For myself, I wonder about the 1-1/2 higher seating position on a bike already top heavy. The extra seat height would put it out of my comfort zone in terms of leg length.
  22. RandyR
    so who got tipped over? http://venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=57351&d=1307448444
  23. RandyR
    It seems that 200,000 miles is the stock answer. It might go longer with the proper maintenance and some luck. I agree that changing the oil at 2,000 miles seems a bit more often than necessary, assuming you also change the filter. 3,000 miles with dino oil and 5,000 with full synthetic should be often enough to stay ahead of oil breakdown and contamination. When you finally start to lose compression at 200,000 or more miles in another 15 years, it will likely be cheaper to change out the complete engine than rebuilding the origonal.
  24. RandyR
    read the posts by member Skydoc_17 (Earl) on clutch upgrades. he sells kits to rebuild. I think they are in the classified.
  25. RandyR
    I have a pair of Chippewa engineer boots with steel toe. they are everything a MC riding boot should be. http://www.chippewaboots.com/category/STREET_WARRIOR These boots should last a lifetime.
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