Squidley

Well I have some time and decided that I will put up how to split the front fairing and install the audio cable to hook up MP3 players, Sat radio or GPS units. This is not a hard thing to do and it just takes a little time. Here is what you will need to accomplish this, all these cables can be purchased at you local Radio Shack for less that $20 2 Way splitter part # 42-2570 6 FT Audio Cable part # 42-2387A You can also use a 3 way splitter if you choose for more hookups Part # 42-2458 and if you want the ultimate audio cable then here is the gold series 6 FT cable Part # 42-2607 First thing to do is take off the chrome windshiled trim, it is held on by 2-3mm hex bolts (Pic) when you remove the bolts you need to get your fingernails under both outer edges of the chrome piece and lift strait up, working it slowly. You can rock it back & forth strait up and this will help it along. If yours has never been off it will go a little hard and your going to be puckered. Dont force it! work it a bit and it will come off. Next is to remove the additional 6 bolts that hold the fairing on from behind, there are 3 on each side and are 3mm also, You'll also notice that the 2 bolts that hold the chrome windshield trim on are longer than the others, they need to go back in those 2 top holes on reassembly The next bolt to remove is the 4mm below the headlight You will see 6-3mm bolts along the top of the fairing, these hold the windshield on and the top of the fairing. There is a trick here, remove the 1st bolt to the right of the center completely out. Then you will loosen the remaining 5 but dont take them completely out. You will see that the windshield has slots and that it slides over the other bolts. Once you have them loose and the one out you can lift the shield strait up and off the bike. Take out the remaining bolts and you can now remove the fairing. If you have driving lights that are not on an extention you will have to take the bracket loose to remove the front of the fairing. Now the bike will look like this You will now have to dig around inside the wires to free up the connectors for the Aux jack, here is the wire to which it is connected on the amplifier unit. This wire has the female end on it and is what you will plug the new splitter into. And here is the male plug that goes to the back of the cassette deck. You will plug this into 1 of the female ends of the splitter should you want to hook up the aux jack behind the cassette door. What you now need to do is take your splitter, which you can get from your local Radio Shack and install it onto the female end that is on the amp. I just wrapped it in electrical tape for seal out any moisture and debris. Now you can plug the male end from the casstette deck back into the splitter so it's still useable if you wish. Remember to wrap it in electrical tape so it is sealed and wont be pulled apart. You can now plug in your 6 ft Audio Cable that you will be running to whatever device your hooking up MP3 GPS or Sattilite radio. If you want to hook up 2 of these then just omit hooking the tape deck line back up and purchase 2-6 ft leads. You will then need to run your Audio Cable from inside the fairing to the handlebars or where ever you are hooking your components up at. I had mine run throught the cable loops that the bikes wiring and cables run through. There will be some extra length with these audio cables, just wind them up inside the fairing and put a zip tie on them to keep them neat and orderly...it makes getting around so much easier when you have to go back in there. Once you run your Audio Cables your ready to put the fairing back together, here is a little trick that will help you out. Put the outer 2 bolts in the upper fairing and start to thread them in before you slide the windshield back down into place. Many times the small brackets that hold the steel backing plate are broken and when you try to install the windshield it pushes the threaded guide holes out of position...dont ask how I know this. Install the windshield and then the right of center bolt, now the shield wont fall out. Replace all the additional bolts but be sure not to tighten any all the way up until all the bolts are threaded in....Tighten all the bolts Thats all there is to it! you now have additional hookups for the aux position. Mind you this will not work with the CD changer in the bike if you have one as it will use the auxillary on the bike. This works great for MP3 players, GPS systems and Sat radio.

Sam...Welcome to the site! That is a common problem on some of the G2's, if you need any ideas or help just ask away. There are no dumb questions here and we'll get any problem you have squared away.

Dan, I dont believe that a quality weld can be accomplished other than the way Randy did it (upside down). #1 it would have to be perfectly clean to make sure of good penetration and # 2 it is difficult at best to weld with the MIG upside down from the underneath. That area is very tight and it really should be done while flipped as Randy did.

Gary, Do you have any pics of it? If the HD one isn't compatable with the RSV I'm looking for all the options I can get

Absolutely...let us know and we'll get hooked up with you folks for a bit of a ride

This will be another of the upgrades I make on my bike also...along with the 100 others or so to make it just right I know Rick H has them for the 1st gen, not sure on the G2's

There you go Scott...ask and ye shall recieve That does look good Randy

Rick, That is perfect! I dont need all of that other crap thats on most of the MP3 players. As far as the price goes most of the MP3 players on the market are $200 + Thanks for posting that up, I am going to check that out and see how feasable it is

Jim, Mig welding the frame will be fine, thats how they come from the factory as it's all automated and done with robots for the most part. The biggest things you need to do is make sure the pieces your welding are clean steel. I would also heat them up a bit prior to striking the arc as mig wire will flow better if it's started on a preheated surface. As mentioned use a good machine to do this with plenty of power. I would NOT use a 110 vac welder or a flux core to do this, Use a 220 vac unit as it will give better current for a better weld and better penetration. If you have problems or other questions give me a shout, I just happen to be a welder by trade

Looks decent...but I haven't had much luck with MP3 players that have all the doo dads. I wish they would make one that just handled music, all the other crap just makes it more unrelaible. I'd really like to get another one for the bike, but I hate having to keep taking them back due to them going bad

Scott, Nothing against the Diamond R, they have great quality items. I have a venturedad hitch and I love it I too was looking for something to make an adapter to haul a flag on PGR missions.

It's good to see that someone stepped up and does this for our militart folks. Granted it is good for him also but I'm sure that it's from the heart and I know that it makes me happy to see it....Thanks for the post Bobbie

Tim, Something that needs to be done when you pull the clutch apart is take some sandpaper and rough up the steel discs that are between all the friction discs. What happens is when a clutch slips it glazes the assy and if you dont remove that glaze you can have problems with slipping even with a new set of springs. Rick H at Buckeye performancs can get the friction discs, probably has them in stock. Jack had a good point also with completely bleeding the clutch system and install new fluid. Let us know if you need some more info and we'll get you rolling again

Either way would be a good ride, coming down through Michigan would be cool or south from Sudbury. I think that this would be a VERY cool M&E, might have to work on the plan over the winter

Brad, The ride to and from Tobermory is a good one, lots of fun and plenty to see as far as landscape. That would be a good ride to there and across on the ferry then up to 17 That would be a cool ride...maybe we can plan something like that eh?

17 across the top is nice and would be a decent ride on a bike in the spring. Me personally I do not want any part of Toronto on a bike I think going up top is a good idea and I liked the ride when we took Charlie back home with his new bike.

Thanks Gene....I'm sure if a thread was posted you could fill a bunch of orders. ....not that I want to create work for you

Gene, Owl had been on me to make something like that for a year and I just haven't got to do it. I know you would sell a lot of those if you choose to make them....I'll take 2 please

Harley with french rings on them, I love that look and I'm planning on putting french rings on the passing lights also to complete the look.

I await with baited breath for your whit

Dave, I put the driving lights on the underside of the bracket instead of in line with the headlight. Just something different that all the others...thats all

Well seeing your fishing for a wise answer..."a little different" that being not quite like you, you know...on the short yellow bus

Not as of yet.... It took me a while to get all the stuff off of ebay and make it on the fly so to say. If there is truly enought interest I can assist folks in doing this, thanks for the kudos. You know me I'm always trying to be just a little different than everyone else ...yeah I left myself wide open for that one

A few folks have shown interest in how I did my lights on my RSV, here are some close ups for anyone interested. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights005Medium.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights001Medium.jpg I made this extender out of a block of 3/4 " Aluminum and shimmed it fwd with some 3/4" nuts over the bolts. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights002Medium.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights006Medium.jpg The lights are from a H/D both the driving and turn signals http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights004Medium.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/weldman66/Venturerider/RSVlights003Medium.jpg The collars are made of Aluminum that has been drilled out and is polished. It's all custom and I just worked out the engineering as I went along. I would cut the collars down from 2" to 1 1/2" should I decide to do it again. Hope this helps out inquiry minds

Good catch Todd....it isn't included, but he's definitely way out of the ballpark on the price without it