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Everything posted by Monty
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oil filter options..
Monty replied to painterman67's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I buy my Fram filter kit at Advance Auto Parts. Never had a problem with it. I have skipped using Frams in the past because Fram makes an EXCELLENT filter...too good...they filter so good, that I have seen them cut down oil pressure in some of the vehicles I have driven or raced. They really need to back off a bit. Never had any trouble on my bike though. -
I just hope this girl is not a member here. http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/1806761601_5e7cae89ea.jpg
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I used to live close to you...Mackinaw. I don't miss that weather at all. I haven't even set foot in Illinois since 1988. Since I moved down here, all of my relatives, friends and neighbors that have visited, have ended up moving down here also. I still have some family in Mackinaw and Atlanta, but they come and visit.
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Electrical Gremlin
Monty replied to Marcarl's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Yes. Like I said, I had forgot he was using a horn that drew more amps than stock. Look at the drawing from the factory manual, and then look at his drawing, and tell me it's the same. -
Electrical Gremlin
Monty replied to Marcarl's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I forgot the aftermarket horn draws more current than the stock one...duh. -
Electrical Gremlin
Monty replied to Marcarl's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I just don't see it working correctly, if that last schematic I posted from the manual is right. You must have completely rewired the switch and horn. According to the schematic, the button is in series with a ground circuit (wire comes from ground, then thru switch, then to ground side of horn), so that when you push the button, you complete the ground circuit, allowing current to flow from ground, thru the switch, then thru the horn coil, and back to the voltage source. You have it wired from voltage source to switch, then thru relay primary coil to ground. You would have had to completely rewired everything to do that. -
Electrical Gremlin
Monty replied to Marcarl's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
OK. As you see here in the schematic, the horn button applies the ground. I think there may be a problem with the relay latching on sometimes. I really need to see how you actually wired it, or at least take some pictures of it all. http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/HornDrawing.jpg -
Electrical Gremlin
Monty replied to Marcarl's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
OK, when you turn the key on, the relay coil is energized, closing the secondary circuit.(look where it says K1). It makes the connection between points 1 and 7, thereby allowing you to have a fully closed circuit between ground and the power source, via the horn, while pushing the button. Really, the only good reason for a relay in this circuit, is to disable the horn when the key is off. I need to see a schematic of the bike, as what others are saying about closing the ground circuit makes the most sense. I drew it up this way, because you said the horn had a wire on it connecting to ground. I'll get back to you after I dig it up. -
I didn't say to try to pinch thru it. It doesn't take much pressure to do it without damaging the hose. Is there another option without letting your master cylinder drain out all over the place, or doing the c-clamp thing? I am a former ASE Tech, and that's how I learned of the ABS thing. Gave that up...too much damage to hands/wrists shoulders after all those years.
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Also...On all vehicles, bike or car, I clamp the brake hose with a pair of needle nosed vice grips, then open the bleeder screw to relieve pressure to the caliper. Then, I retract the caliper with a screwdriver. You want it all of the way in before you add the new pads, so that it will have room for the thicker pads. Some people use a c clamp to retract their calipers, which is ok too....UNLESS... the vehicle is ABS equipped. NEVER do this on an ABS vehicle, or it could possibly cost you lots of money, as the pressure going back into the ABS unit can destroy it. Those who have done it without problems have just gotten lucky. Once everything is replaced, just tighten the bleeder screw, and remove the vise grips. Pump the brake a few times, until it feels good, and then top off the brake fluid. No bleeding is needed this way.
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The pads ride against the discs, with no pressure on them. When you release the brakes, the pressure is relieved, but the calipers only retract a little bit...just enough to take the pressure off.
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Yes, it seems I read about the wire being green/red, and you ground it to turn the fan on. I may be wrong about the color.
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If you're gonna mount the battery on a trailer or something that doesn't keep it charged, I would suggest getting a deep-cycle marine battery. You can get one for a decent price at Wallyworld.
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LIke GG said...running direct from the battery is your best choice.
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Electrical Gremlin
Monty replied to Marcarl's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
OK, being an Electronic Engineer, I made up a simple schematic depicting the way it should be done. According to your description, you wired it right. When you turn on your key, you energize the relay coil, and it stays energized as long as the key is on. When you push the button, you complete the path to the horn, energizing it momentarily. The only thing I can think of, based on your description, is that the horn button was sticking on you. I would need to see a shematic of the bikes' wiring harness to accurately say whether or not you wired it correctly for your bike. http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/NewHornSch.jpg -
I have a few ideas, if ECK decides to pursue this guy. (I am also an ex Deputy Sheriff). 1: Have the scene investigators take a look at the local gas stations that are at that onramp. If they look at the tapes from that time and date, they may find that the guy stopped in for gas or something. They find people that way alot. 2: It's possible that the guy belongs to a local Mustang club, if he was local. We don't even know if he was local, or just popped off the interstate to fill up. It's worth checking into, anyway.
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I am certainly up for it also.
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As a Desert Shield/Desert Storm Vet, I can tell you that they could REALLY use some care packages while they are there. When they get settled, maybe you can get their addresses for us, so some things can be sent. Those packeges really mean ALOT, and help with the morale and loneliness.
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I just put a Fram on my '83, and everything fit fine. I got it at Advance Auto Parts.
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Here is one site. You have to put in your zip code. http://www.kbb.com/motorcycle?r=702834746196323456 and here is another. http://www.nadaguides.com/SectionHome.aspx?LI=1-28-0-5000-502-565-50214&l=1&w=23&p=0&f=5600
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Well, I just ordered a set of Elite IIIs from Motorcycle Superstore for $235.
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Ron Ayers is the cheapest, but they charge $12/tire shipping, which makes them more expensive in the long run. It looks like I'll have to go bias...hard to find radials in my size.