Monty

Yes. Like I said, I had forgot he was using a horn that drew more amps than stock. Look at the drawing from the factory manual, and then look at his drawing, and tell me it's the same.

I forgot the aftermarket horn draws more current than the stock one...duh.

I just don't see it working correctly, if that last schematic I posted from the manual is right. You must have completely rewired the switch and horn. According to the schematic, the button is in series with a ground circuit (wire comes from ground, then thru switch, then to ground side of horn), so that when you push the button, you complete the ground circuit, allowing current to flow from ground, thru the switch, then thru the horn coil, and back to the voltage source. You have it wired from voltage source to switch, then thru relay primary coil to ground. You would have had to completely rewired everything to do that.

OK. As you see here in the schematic, the horn button applies the ground. I think there may be a problem with the relay latching on sometimes. I really need to see how you actually wired it, or at least take some pictures of it all. http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/HornDrawing.jpg

OK, when you turn the key on, the relay coil is energized, closing the secondary circuit.(look where it says K1). It makes the connection between points 1 and 7, thereby allowing you to have a fully closed circuit between ground and the power source, via the horn, while pushing the button. Really, the only good reason for a relay in this circuit, is to disable the horn when the key is off. I need to see a schematic of the bike, as what others are saying about closing the ground circuit makes the most sense. I drew it up this way, because you said the horn had a wire on it connecting to ground. I'll get back to you after I dig it up.

I didn't say to try to pinch thru it. It doesn't take much pressure to do it without damaging the hose. Is there another option without letting your master cylinder drain out all over the place, or doing the c-clamp thing? I am a former ASE Tech, and that's how I learned of the ABS thing. Gave that up...too much damage to hands/wrists shoulders after all those years.

Also...On all vehicles, bike or car, I clamp the brake hose with a pair of needle nosed vice grips, then open the bleeder screw to relieve pressure to the caliper. Then, I retract the caliper with a screwdriver. You want it all of the way in before you add the new pads, so that it will have room for the thicker pads. Some people use a c clamp to retract their calipers, which is ok too....UNLESS... the vehicle is ABS equipped. NEVER do this on an ABS vehicle, or it could possibly cost you lots of money, as the pressure going back into the ABS unit can destroy it. Those who have done it without problems have just gotten lucky. Once everything is replaced, just tighten the bleeder screw, and remove the vise grips. Pump the brake a few times, until it feels good, and then top off the brake fluid. No bleeding is needed this way.

The pads ride against the discs, with no pressure on them. When you release the brakes, the pressure is relieved, but the calipers only retract a little bit...just enough to take the pressure off.

Yes, it seems I read about the wire being green/red, and you ground it to turn the fan on. I may be wrong about the color.

If you're gonna mount the battery on a trailer or something that doesn't keep it charged, I would suggest getting a deep-cycle marine battery. You can get one for a decent price at Wallyworld.

LIke GG said...running direct from the battery is your best choice.

OK, being an Electronic Engineer, I made up a simple schematic depicting the way it should be done. According to your description, you wired it right. When you turn on your key, you energize the relay coil, and it stays energized as long as the key is on. When you push the button, you complete the path to the horn, energizing it momentarily. The only thing I can think of, based on your description, is that the horn button was sticking on you. I would need to see a shematic of the bikes' wiring harness to accurately say whether or not you wired it correctly for your bike. http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/NewHornSch.jpg

I have a few ideas, if ECK decides to pursue this guy. (I am also an ex Deputy Sheriff). 1: Have the scene investigators take a look at the local gas stations that are at that onramp. If they look at the tapes from that time and date, they may find that the guy stopped in for gas or something. They find people that way alot. 2: It's possible that the guy belongs to a local Mustang club, if he was local. We don't even know if he was local, or just popped off the interstate to fill up. It's worth checking into, anyway.

I am certainly up for it also.

As a Desert Shield/Desert Storm Vet, I can tell you that they could REALLY use some care packages while they are there. When they get settled, maybe you can get their addresses for us, so some things can be sent. Those packeges really mean ALOT, and help with the morale and loneliness.

He posted on Tuesday.

I just put a Fram on my '83, and everything fit fine. I got it at Advance Auto Parts.

Here is one site. You have to put in your zip code. http://www.kbb.com/motorcycle?r=702834746196323456 and here is another. http://www.nadaguides.com/SectionHome.aspx?LI=1-28-0-5000-502-565-50214&l=1&w=23&p=0&f=5600

Well, I just ordered a set of Elite IIIs from Motorcycle Superstore for $235.

Ron Ayers is the cheapest, but they charge $12/tire shipping, which makes them more expensive in the long run. It looks like I'll have to go bias...hard to find radials in my size.

Do most of you run bias or radial?

I found the info here...good stuff. How to read tire fitment charts and info: Typical complete tire description: 120/70ZR17J (58W) Now, let's break that down into pieces that make sense: The first number (120) represents the widest point of the tire's width between the left and right sides, called the "section width", and measured in millimeters. In this example, the width of the tire is 120 millimeters. The slash ( / ) is there to differenciate the first number from the second number, and serves no other purpose. The second number (70) represents the sidewall height as a percentage of the first number (in this example, it tell us the tire sidewall height is 70 percent of 120 millimeters, or 84 millimeters tall). Then comes either one or two letters (in our example, ZR). Sometimes these letters are placed elsewhere in the description, but traditionally, they should be listed this point. The first letter is always the speed rating (see Speed Rating chart), and the second letter, if it is there, is an "R" (radial tire) or a "B" (bias tire). Lack of a second letter means it is a bias or non-belted tire. The next numbers (17) represent the wheel's diameter, measured in inches. In this example, the wheel is 17 inches across. A letter at the end of the first part of the designation (the J in our example) is not required, but if present means that the tire has a special characteristics to match some manufacturer's specific motorcycle model. For example, Metzeler makes (made at the time I first wrote this portion) a Z4 radial as a 150/70ZR17, as a 150/70ZR17B, and as a 150/70ZR17J, where the "B" model was intended specifically the OEM factory tire for BMW 1150GS models (slightly different tread pattern), and the "J" model was intended for Yamaha FJR1300's (again a minor tread pattern variation from what I could tell). A two digit number follows, which is sometimes omitted but never should be (58). This number represents the load capacity or weight rating of the tire (in terms of how much weight, including both the rider and the motorcycle itself, the tire is designed to handle as it's maximum). In our example, the 58 can be looked up in a cross-referenced chart, and represents a maximum load rating of 520 lbs. There is no simple way to directly convert the number to the weight that I have been able to figure out. Finally, a letter may follow the load capacity (W). This is a manufacturer "modifying descriptor" and means that the standard for the tire is modified by some means (W generally means higher speed rated than a standard Z rated tire). We haven't been able to find a cross-reference for the various modifiers (yet -- they do vary by manufacturer), so if you are concerned about the rating modifier, contact the actual manufacturer's rep for the tire. Additionally, all motorcycle tires are normally marked with three or four digit code on their sidewalls, which represent the date of manufacture (the first two digits are the week of the year, the last digit is the year of the decade it was manufacturered in). Since modern cycle tires are only good for about five years from the date of their manufacture (the time period it takes the various compounds that keep the tire pliable and strong to evaporate out), knowing which year of a decade it was manufacturered is normally enough. Example: 011 would be a tire manufactured in January (1st week) of 2001. 118 would be a tire manufacturerd in the 11th week (between the 13th and 19th of March) of 1998 (since 2008 hasn't arrived yet, as I write this). As a general rule, newer tires are better, and we recommend you buy tires manufactured within the past 12 months whenever possible (obviously, if you have a flat away from home, you will take whatever you can get). Do not buy a four or five year old tire -- and if you buy an old bike, immediately check the tire age before riding it! SPEED RATING: Speed Rating vs. Used Tires Tire's speed ratings are established with new production tires. Tires that have been repaired (patched), abused (dyno-tested, used at a track day), or are worn down somewhat no longer qualify for their original speed rating. Keep that in mind when you try to figure out why the motorcycle's manufacturer specified a 149+ mph rated tire for a bike that only goes 130 mph max. It's for your own safety! RATING RATED TOP SPEED MPH / KPH J 62 mph / 100 kph N 87 mph / 140 kph P 94 mph / 150 kph S 112 mph / 180 kph H 130 mph / 210 kph V 149 mph / 240 kph Z 149+ mph / 240+ kph SPECIAL NOTE: Tires with a 2" to 2.5" nominal section width (think choppers) are rated at 75 mph. LOAD RATING: The importance of the load rating on a tire can not be overstressed. A tire that is overloaded beyond it's design limit will run hot, wear fast and may quite literally blow out on you. The load the tire is designed to bear also affects it's shape and construction -- if you think about it, a GoldWing tire is not going to look like a GSXR600 tire. The load rating the manufacturer sets as the spec for your bike takes into account extra loading for weight-transfer (loading up the front wheel during braking, loading up the back wheel under acceleration), so you can't simply go by the curb weight of the bike. Always check the specs for your bike before ordering tires, and make sure the tires meet or exceed the load rating requirements for that wheel on that particular bike. For example, if the load requirement for the front wheel is "58" (520 lbs max), then you can fit a 59 or 60 weight-rated tire in the right size on there with no issue, but should never fit a 57 or below! TIRE LOAD-RATING CHART 20 176 lbs / 80 Kg 53 454 lbs / 206 Kg21 182 lbs / 82.5 Kg 54 467 lbs / 212 Kg22 187 lbs / 85 Kg 55 481 lbs / 218 Kg23 193 lbs / 87.5 Kg 56 494 lbs / 224 Kg24 198 lbs / 90 Kg 57 507 lbs / 230 Kg25 204 lbs / 92.5 Kg 58 520 lbs / 236 Kg26 209 lbs / 95 Kg 59 536 lbs / 243 Kg27 215 lbs / 97.5 Kg 60 551 lbs / 250 Kg28 220 lbs / 100 Kg 61 567 lbs / 257 Kg29 227 lbs / 103 Kg 62 583 lbs / 264.5 Kg30 234 lbs / 106 Kg 63 600 lbs / 272 Kg31 240 lbs / 109 Kg 64 617 lbs / 280 Kg32 247 lbs / 112 Kg 65 639 lbs / 290 Kg33 254 lbs / 115 Kg 66 661 lbs / 300 Kg34 260 lbs / 118 Kg 67 677 lbs / 307 Kg35 267 lbs / 121 Kg 68 694 lbs / 315 Kg36 273 lbs / 124 Kg 69 716 lbs / 325 Kg37 282 lbs / 128 Kg 70 736 lbs / 334 Kg38 291 lbs / 132 Kg 71 761 lbs / 345 Kg39 300 lbs / 136 Kg 72 783 lbs / 355 Kg40 309 lbs / 140 Kg 73 805 lbs / 365 Kg41 320 lbs / 145 Kg 74 827 lbs / 375 Kg42 331 lbs / 150 Kg 75 853 lbs / 387 Kg43 342 lbs / 155 Kg 76 882 lbs / 400 Kg44 353 lbs / 160 Kg 77 908 lbs / 412 Kg45 364 lbs / 165 Kg 78 937 lbs / 425 Kg46 375 lbs / 170 Kg 79 963 lbs / 437 Kg47 386 lbs / 175 Kg 80 992 lbs / 450 Kg48 397 lbs / 180 Kg 81 1019 lbs / 462 Kg49 408 lbs / 185 Kg 82 1047 lbs / 475 Kg50 419 lbs / 190 Kg 83 1074 lbs / 487 Kg51 430 lbs / 195 Kg 84 1102 lbs / 500 Kg52 441 lbs / 200 Kg WHAT ELSE TO KNOW: NARROW VS WIDE: Although wide tires are all the rage now, narrower tires handle better under most real world conditions. TIRE GROWTH: All tires will expand to some degree over time once they are mounted, both due to the pressure on them, and due to heating-cooling cycles. Street tires normally expand 3 to 8%, while race tires can expand up to 22%. Be cautious in mounting a tire that will barely fit your clearances; the tire may easily grow to exceed the available space once it gets up to temp. UNEVEN TIRE WEAR (#1): Because roads are normally crowned to permit rainwater drainage, and you consistantly ride on the same side of the crown (right side of the road in the most countries; left side in the UK, Japan, and certain former British colonies), under normal street riding, tires wear unevenly to one side across the peak of their center apex. UNEVEN TIRE WEAR (#2): Depending on a variety of factors, including the size of the land-sea boundaries, the compound composition, the ambient temperature and the road surface temps, tires may wear unevenly from the front to rear of the individual tread blocks. Tire pressure and how it relates to tire surface temperature can have a drastic affect on whether this kind of scalloping/cupping at the land/see boundaries occurs, although certain tires types do it more than others. HIDDEN LEAKING: Your tires leak. Period. Under pressure, tires leak out some of their pressure directly through the rubber compound of the tire each and every day, very slowly. Check your tire pressure before you ride anywhere for the day (usually referred to as measured "cold") and add air as required. PRESSURE DIFFERENCIALS: A ten degree (F) change in the ambient temp will result in a significant pressure change in the tires. If the weather cooled or got hotter since yesterday, check your tire pressure again before you ride. NAILS, SCREWS, TACKS: If you get a nail, screw or tack in your tire miles from home or the closest shop, you have a few choices. The wisest of them is to call a ride to tow you & the bike to somewhere where you can get a new tire, then pull the object once you get there and hope it didn't go all the way through. The second is to cut it off flush (if it isn't already) and ride it to a safe place slowly -- very very slowly (think walking pace), ready for a possible leak or blow-out. The third is to pull the item out and pray it didn't go through -- and if it did, you're not going anywhere without a tow. And the final way is to carry an emergency patch/plug kit, pull the item, plug it as necessary, then proceed directly to somewhere that sells replacement tires. TIRE AGE: Motorcycle tires should not be used after five years from date of manufacture. Tires contain Volitile Organic Compounds (VOC's) which help keep the rubber flexible and grippy; as tires age, the VOC's leach out. Certain conditions can accelerate this process, including extremely hot and excessively humid or dry environments, parking on certain forms of man-made carpeting, certain molds & mildew forms (which may accelerate or even cause what is commonly known as "dry rot"), as well as overheating the tires due to low tire pressure or hard use.

My '83 Venture has MR90-18 on the front, and a MU90R-16 on the rear. I am looking at buying a set of Elite 3's from Motorcycle Superstore, and these are the sizes they give... Front: MR90H-18 Rear: MU90HB-16 Will these work? Does the "B" mean bias? I want to stay Radial and tubeless.

Nice. Hannigan Motorsports is only about 15 miles from my house, in Murray, Ky. Is that where your bike/trike is?

No ideas? Does the spring really need lubricated?