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FJR Rider

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Everything posted by FJR Rider

  1. The problem is though, even though your debit card is supposed to work as a credit card as well...some pumps still only recognize it as a debit card, even when you select credit. I experienced this on the SS1000 I did last Saturday. For years I've always used my debit card for gas purchases, but here recently many pumps won't even take the card. First four fills I used the debit card, no problem...last four fills I had to use my MasterCard. Only one pump gave me the option of selecting credit when using my debit card, but it still wouldn't take the card, the other three wouldn't take the card at all as a debit. During our Spring Green Ride-In two weeks ago, several of the gas stations had signs posted that they would no longer accept debit cards for outside sales. I've talked to our bank about this, and surprisingly (well maybe not...) they said they didn't know why my debit card wouldn't work as credit anywhere as it's backed as a credit card...in other words, if I have no $ in my account the $10,000 limit as credit card takes over. My wife doesn't like me using the MasterCard as it means she has to balance more than just the checkbook .. I guess she'll just have to suck it up and get used to it Curt
  2. Do the rear lube and oil changes for sure...won't hurt your warranty. If you have someone other than the dealer sync your carbs (assuming they know what they're doing )...won't hurt your warranty. No problem with the brake and clutch fluids, or radiator fluid as far as warranty goes. I'm just up the road from you in Suamico (in Appleton all the time though as our oldest daughter and grandkids live there)...100k between 99 and 06 RSVs, if you've got a question or need help with something, let me know. Don't know a lot a tricks, but might be able to show one or two . Also, if you're thinking dealer service .. I'd recommend the ride to the Donahue's in Wisconsin Rapids over either TWL or TM for service...especially if you want someone who knows the V4 (and in particular 1st and 2d Gen Ventures) inside and out! Curt p.s. Dan .. it was nice to meet you! Sorry you weren't able to stay longer...you missed a great lunch
  3. Pete, Yes, first "certified" one. We ended up having a great ride, 16.5 hours, total of which 14.5 was rolling. 1,014 GPS miles, 1,038 odometer miles. Easy route for a certification ride. I need to untwist one of the loops on the throttle return spring on the FJR...thank God for my Throttle Meister or my wrist would have been toast keeping that stiff throttle open. Other than sore knees in the middle of the ride, the FJR was nice and comfy! Curt
  4. I had a maintenance day Memorial Day Weekend at my place...where were you guys then? The invite was out there.
  5. Make sure you say hello to Pete Behm (Behmer)...He's a Team Strange guy...I know for sure he'll be on the ride, but not sure if he'll be on his RSV (Red) or his FJR (Blue). Usually wears a blue Roadcrafter one piece riding suit and a white full face helmet. If on the FJR he'll be my himself as the backseat is taken up by an aux fuel tank. If he's on the RSV, his wife Paula will be with him, and the trunk crammed full of aux fuel cell ! I'm not doing the Team Strange ride, but will be going through MN early AM on the front leg of SS 1000. Not Ed and myself are leaving the east side of Eau Claire (I get a bonus 350 miles for the ride over and back from Suamico tomorrow and Sunday) between 4 and 4:30 AM ... I-94 through the Cities to Fargo, I-29 south to Sioux Falls SD, I-90 east to Tomah, and then I-94 to Menominee (GPS miles is 1,014). I was going to say I'd ride at least as far as Eau Claire with you tomorrow, but I have to work a full day before I can depart. Enjoy your ride over and on good luck in the MN 1000! Curt
  6. On 1st Gen FJRs (03-05) there was a mapping problem with the fuel injection that's easily corrected. On both 1st and 2d Gen FJRs (06-08, corrected on 09) they have very stiff throttles; the fix for this is taking one loop off the return spring. I haven't done mine yet, but need to. As far as comfort, you're all right...it's subjective. I like both our RSV and my FJR (notice I said "our" for the RSV and "my" for the FJR ), and I can do long days on the RSV (had a nice 600 mile day last fall), but I find that after the first 100 mile ride or so, I need to get off the bike every 75 miles or so....otherwise my tailbone and lower back are toast. I can stay on the FJR a full fuel load (300 miles plus) with no problems...of course not having a passenger helps because I can move my feet back and forth between the rider and the passenger pegs. Initially I had some problems with my throttle hand getting sore (still do occassionally), but the addition of a Thottle Meister throttle lock helps immensely...a few FJR owners have added an Audio Vox cruise control (fairly cheap, somewhat easy install). Just like my 95 Concours, I like the stock seat and don't see a need to change....but I do put a towel over it when doing long rides...provides just enough "air" to keep the butt burn at bay. As far as passenger comfort, again up to the passenger. My wife doesn't care the FJR..why should she when the RSV is sitting there (remember, "ours:)? We bought our 99 RSV (and then an 06) because my wife loved to ride, but was complaining if we did more than 150 mile day on the Concours. But there are options out there to improve pax comfort if the pax so desires...Sargent makes a great seat for the FJR (preferred by most over the Corbin) and then you have the various custom seat builders such as Mayer. You can add a top case from either Yamaha or Givi, either with a backrest or without. Since I really didn't need the top case I added a custom-made (FJR Forum member) backrest and luggage rack. Regarding weather protection...again, like any bike, there are options to make it better. Several different manufacturers have taller wider windscreens. The windscreen is adjustable in stock form...from laid down (ala sport bike to almost straight up)...I put it up about 1/3 which pushs the air over my helmet. Curt
  7. Hmmmm...nice "stretch" for you 1st Gen guys. And...if you want to sit bolt-upright on the FJR, you can! Handlebar risers will take care of that one for you if that's your desire. I'll have to figure out this bad posture thing out though, I've never experienced it with either my Concours or my FJR...but if you say so........................................ I let you know about comfortable for a "length of time" after this Saturday's ride from Eau Claire WI to Fargo ND to Sioux Falls SD to Tomah WI to Menominee WI. A little more than my last "long" Sunday ride from Lowell AR to Green Bay WI.
  8. Whew, I was worried..... but.....I got a receipt , so I know all is well. Time for a
  9. I like it Don....it didn't hurt too much did it??
  10. Don't forget the "master" volume. There's THREE volume controls on the 550. The main one is the "Master" volume and it's the one most people miss adjusting, and likely it's the one causing this problem. If you're only using the internal volume control where you see the two 100% bars, you have not completely adjusted the volume for the unit. Make sure those are at 100%, and then with the screen on a map, press the lower left button on the edge of unit...you'll see a vertical volume "level" bar come on on the ride side of the panel, use your +/- buttons on the left side to move the "master" volume up or down. Curt
  11. Rick, Sorry I caused some confusion. Almost all of the aux fuse boxes will handle up 30 Amps per circuit. So, if you want to run a fuse box in line between the battery and switch unit...you might want to go a heavier guage wire (than 12, maybe 10 or 8) from the battery to the fuse box, and then at least 12 guage wire on the circuit with the 30 amp fuse. The reason I said it the way I did is I've never put more than 10 amps on any one circuit on the aux fuse boxes I've installed. For my trailer box, while I do have more than 3 circuits used, never more than 3 are in use at any one time...so having a 30 amp relay in line before the box is not a problem. Again, sorry for the confusion...your diagram is correct. Curt
  12. SilvrT, Everything is the same except going through the fuse box on the way to the relay. I basically concur with RR's response to you, however I did use a fuse in line...just off the battery, approximately 2 inches into the 12 guage wire power lead to the relay, I installed an in-line 30 amp fuse. Provides that added level of protection before getting to the relay and onto the switch gear . I used a 30 amp because the running lights (switch one) is on a 10 amp fuse; the accent LEDs (switch two) is a 10 amp fuse; and I left the 10 amp fuse in-line to fire the relay (switch 3) for aux fuse box. You've got it Curt
  13. Interesting thread...as it just came on another forum as well. I have the Kuryakyn switch unit as well. The way I wired it is exactly what RR said, and we haven't even compared notes ....must be a Wisconsin thing . I ran a power lead from the battery to the power in terminal on a 40 Amp relay, then using the same gauge wire (12) ran a lead from the relay switch out terminal to the Kuryakyn switch unit. I switch the relay of the headlight. Accomplished two things this way: 1) the relay allows the Kuryakyn unit to only be powered when the key is on, and 2) provides extra protection for the circuits coming off the switch unit. But...even better, it actually allowed for a third thing. I run a relay in line between the battery and my aux fuse box that provides power for the four relays for my trailer harness and aux power plug in the trunk. The third switch on the Kuryakyn unit is what fires this relay. Double relay protection for the trailer harness as well . Curt
  14. So what I hear you all saying is the 5 hours I spent cleaning my garage today was wasted time?
  15. Toy Box
  16. No issues...I understood your humor as well...all smiles on my end
  17. My comment was purely TPFIC (tongue planted firmly in cheek). It was the "humor" of the title of the post..."A sportbike coated..."
  18. Dang sportbikes...sprayed that oil straight back . A cruiser would have dumped it straight down
  19. Looks like it painted...check the bag hinges, look like they're painted over.
  20. 950 miles, Acworth GA to Sun Prairie WI, 12.5 hrs, Kawasaki Concours 850 miles, Bentonville AR to Suamico WI, 13.0 hrs, FJR Lots of 500+ days and few 600+ days. Most two up 550 miles.
  21. As long as Mark and team don't have any bad luck, the rest of the field better watch out! He's went from 34th in points to 13th in points over the last four races. He and his crew are doing now what Hendrick, and most of the rest of the garage, thought he'd be doing. Sad part though, if the 5 starts beating the 18 consistently, look for the 18 to stuff him like he did the 88 last year . You'd thought the crew chief Gustafson had just won the Daytona 500 and the championship when Mark crossed the line last night. They were telling the story about Mark being one his boyhood heros, and now he's Mark's crew chief...what a thrill it must have been for him too!
  22. FJR Rider

    one album

    10 Years After - Essential
  23. Got you....probably thought I was tagging on the moderators' thread...nope, just some safety stuff. Enjoy. I'm a subscriber to Road Runner Magazine, and now also get their e-mail .... the following is an extract from this month's e-mail. Some great safety related articles. Curt SWING INTO SPRING It’s fast approaching - the time of year for getting back out on America’s highways and byways for another exciting riding season. (Unless, of course, you’re fortunate enough to live in a warm climate and never left the tarmac all winter.) Here are a few reminders for making sure that you and your ride are ready to go: ‘Be All You Can Be’ Physically: Practically everyone knows that riding a motorcycle or scooter is more physically demanding than driving a car. When recently following a rider through a curvy section of tarmac, I noticed that while he started out strong and sharp, his technique began to devolve after a couple of hours. Tiredness evidently lessened his concentration and his smooth riding and cornering became a little jerky and slower. Even a light regimen of aerobic and strengthening exercises—on a regular schedule—can pay big dividends out on the road. Service Your Bike(s): At least once a year, riders should do a thorough inspection of their bike, making sure that: key fasteners are at their specified torque; brake and clutch fluid is fresh; regular services have been performed (oil and filter changes, etc.); tires are not damaged, have sufficient tread and are properly inflated; chains and sprockets aren’t worn out; brake pads don’t need replacing; all controls are freshly lubricated and a list of other things to check that are mostly likely stated in your bike’s Owners Manual. Check Out Your Riding Gear: Make sure your riding jacket, pants, gloves, rain suit, and other apparel are in good shape. Most importantly, though, inspect your helmet closely to make sure it doesn’t need to be replaced because of damage or age. Brush-up on Basic Riding Skills: There’s no better way to start the riding season than with a little parking lot practice of fundamental riding skills, such as: emergency stops, swerving, tight, slow-speed cornering, etc. This also may alert you to any potential mechanical issues, before embarking on a long day or week in the saddle. Sign-up For Advanced Courses: Riders should always strive to be more accomplished each year than they were the year before. A good way to leapfrog up the riding skill ladder is to attend an advanced riding course or clinic, such as the MSF Advanced Rider Course, a track school, a street riding school, an off-road course or one of the host of other riding schools available for motorcyclists. Reading books or articles about motorcycle riding is another strategy for improving your skill level. Here are some of the “service articles” that are available on our website (http://www.roadrunner.travel): “Lee Parks Total Control Advanced Riding Clinic” - http://www.roadrunner.travel/article-6621.php “Ride Like A Pro” - http://www.roadrunner.travel/article-6543.php “Helmet Help” - http://www.roadrunner.travel/article-6423.php “When the Pavement Ends” - http://www.roadrunner.travel/article-6386.php “Time to Re-tire?” - http://www.roadrunner.travel/article-6336.php “Cornercraft: Staying Safer in the Swerves” - http://www.roadrunner.travel/article-6208.php “Road Bites” - http://www.roadrunner.travel/article-6029.php “Bike Prep for the New Season” - http://www.roadrunner.travel/category-service-4.php “Brake Dance” - http://www.roadrunner.travel/article-6233.php
  24. THank you!!! Might help make a difference on which year I decide to retire the second time! Curt
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