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wes0778

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Everything posted by wes0778

  1. wes0778
    The entire city of Jackson, Mississippi has been out of water for several days. The extreme cold weather we have had in January caused broken water mains (140+) all over the town to break. This caused complete loss of pressure for everyone on the Jackson water system. Most of the pipes are still cast iron and some are over 100 years old. The water is now back on in most of the city, but they are under a boil water notice, which will last for several more days. Those of us who live in the outlying suburbs are lucky to have our own water supplies and have not lost pressure.
  2. wes0778
    Retired :sign yeah that:too :bawling:
  3. wes0778
    :rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf:
  4. wes0778
    Got the link to that thread handy?
  5. wes0778
    Hey Breeze, just noticed you are in Mississippi, what part?
  6. wes0778
    Ain't even gonna ask how you discovered THAT one!!! Oh, I hope it doesn't attract deer at night on the highway... :stickpoke:
  7. wes0778
    Been there done that! There is an old post of mine going down a similar road. Just a shot in the dark, but take a couple of strips of duct tape about a foot long and stick it on the windshield over part of the dull area. wait a few minutes and peel it off. If you have a relatively clear area from under the tape, the "hard coating" is damaged. If that is not the case you are in for a LOT of polishing. If it is just use duct tape strips to pull all the hard coating off. And it still will not be real clear and will scratch very easily. You might search for my original post. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=313571&highlight=windshield#post313571 Walter
  8. wes0778
    Four would be Ideal, but I use two that I got from Harbor Freight. Think they were about $25.00 US, each. Will eventually buy two more and need to get some kind of valve to restrict the hoses as the needles "bounce" way too much and I have to pinch the hoses to get the needles steady. Yeah, I know $25.00 each for 4 gages I could have bought a "Morgan"... :bang head:
  9. wes0778
    2 hours sounds about right... Pour a cup of coffee, round up tools, go to AutoZone for a bottle of DOT4, Hmmm, Coffee cup is empty, pour another cup. Hook up vacuum bleeder, suck out old fluid, Damn, Coffee cup is empty again, back to scoot, pour in new fluid, vacuum new fluid in and bleed air. Put up tools. pour old fluid in collection pan for later disposal. Yeah 'bout 2 hours...
  10. wes0778

    Carb sync - wow

    wes0778 replied to a topic in Watering Hole

    http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=258
  11. wes0778
    I think it is a quote by Will Rogers that goes something like; "If dogs don't go to Heaven, then I want to go where dogs go!" So sorry for your loss! We have lost 2 of our 4-legged children in the last several years and I still miss them!!!
  12. wes0778
    I cut into the L/B wire, see the note on the schematic.
  13. wes0778
    Gary, Both are SPST N/O relays
  14. wes0778
    Mission accomplished!!! I ran a (30 amp fused) wire directly from the battery to power my passing lights AND the headlight. This wire is connected to the #30 terminal on my relays. As a switched power source, I tapped the Blue wire with a black stripe (listed as L/B on the schematic). It comes from the headlight fuse and normally powers the headlight. I cut that wire and connected the powered end to the control circuit terminals #86 on two relays. One relay powers the passing lights and the other one is for the head light. The "down stream" end of the L/B wire goes to the dimmer switch, so I connected it to the switched (87) terminal of the relay for the headlight. The #87 terminal of the second relay goes to the passing lights. I then connected the remaining control terminals #85 on each relay to a suitable ground. The mounting bolts for the radio were convenient, so that is my ground connections. What I have accomplished is that the "load" of the headlight and the passing lights does not go through the ignition switch. I hope this cools off the switch as it was kinda hot to the touch. Now as some have mentioned relays can and do fail, so as a backup system, I also added a manual switch next to the auxiliary power connector. I then wired it parallel to the headlight relay. This provides a direct connection from the battery to the dimmer switch. Yes I'll have to be careful as when this manual switch is turned on the headlight is on regardless of the position of the ignition switch. Also in the process I installed a Silver Star Ultra headlight bulb. I have also noticed that the passing lights don't look as "yellow" as they did.
  15. wes0778
    Was a good day for a ride here today, sunny and temps in the mid 40s. BUT, since I don't have an enclosed shop, I took advantage to rewire my passing lights and add a relay. Didn't get started 'til after lunch, so still got some "finishing up" to do. BTW if you get a relay with a diode across the control circuit, don't hook it up backwards, 'cause it will blow fuses. At least that is what I've heard. :whistling:
  16. wes0778
    Whoever installed the passing lights on my '99 RSV tied them in to the yellow (High beam) wire right at the headlight. I have cured that by installing a relay which is turned on and off by the R/Y wire for the headlight. What I'm also wanting to do is add a second relay for the headlight. This way none of the lighting load is going through the ignition switch. This would also enable me to put an "emergency lighting" switch in the circuit which would allow the headlight to work, completely independent from the bike's circuits. My question here is what color wire runs to the dimmer switch? In the circuit pictured, there should be a red wire with a yellow tracer. I found the R/Y wire which powers the headlight, but it goes into a plug only to come out the other side as a solid blue wire. I want to find and cut into the wire where the arrow points. once I cut it I would attach the top cut to the output (terminal 87) of the relay and the wire on the bottom of the cut would then hook to the terminal 85 or 86 on the relay. So, where in the real world harness do I make this cut?
  17. wes0778
    Don't forget the blue lock-tite...
  18. wes0778

    computer help

    wes0778 replied to rod's topic in Watering Hole

    Still got one of the "one piece" Trash-80s with dual 5-1/4" floppy drives...
  19. wes0778
    Simple stuff first! Didja check all the fuses? Have you checked the battery voltage? when it won't crank, does anything else like the dome light or heater fan run? If so, when you try to start it, does the dome light stay on or go out? Have you tried to jump starting it with another vehicle? Is it possible that the headlight bulbs are burned out? Check ALL grounding points. Just a few thoughts... If the battery keeps going down while sitting for a day or two, two things I almost never found that was running the battery down; 1. trunk light didn't turn off when the lid was shut, bad mercury switch. 2. Glove box light did not go off when door was closed, door out of adjustment.
  20. wes0778
    Like the others said , don't bail on us!!! Just curious, when you say the wife cannot get on the venture, how is she trying to get on? Are you getting on first and then letting her try to mount up? If so my suggestion is to let her get on first. Turn the handlebars all the way to the left then put the passenger foot boards down. Have her step up on the left foot board, while if necessary holding on to the left handlebar grip. Then swing the right leg, knee first, across the drivers seat. (If you have a driver's back rest, put it down first) This works well for my handicapped son who is only 5' 1" and is partially paralyzed on his right side. I would bet if you took a poll, you will find that most everyone lets the navigator get ON first and OFF second, with the bike on the kickstand.
  21. wes0778
    Jonas, Just a thought, are you planning on putting the "32s" on one of your RSTC IIs? As I understand it they are not a direct bolt on fit. If I remember a long ago post, the bolt pattern to the cylinder head is different, among other things. Walter
  22. wes0778
    Boomer, be nice, he's new here!!! We don't want to scare him off!!! Breeze, to the asylum, uh Site!!!
  23. wes0778
    I would think it would depend on whether you are riding with the wind, or against it. If the wind is blowing at 25 mph and you are riding with it at 45 mph, theoretically your speed through the air would only be 20 mph. So the wind chill would be figured at 20 MPH. Now if you are riding directly into that 25 mph wind at 45 mph, theoretically your speed through the wind would be 70 mph. In this case the wind chill would be figured at 70 mph.
  24. wes0778
    Hey, it got up to the mid 40s today, Soooooo... :stickpoke:
  25. wes0778
    Hey sun is out and temp is mid 40s Sooo it's time for PMS therapy!!! :cool10::cool10:
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