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wes0778

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Everything posted by wes0778

  1. This is truly a video which should be retained for posterity so that our children, grandchildren, and Great grandchildren can be witness to and appreciate one of the most solemn and meaningful ceremonial gatherings in the annals of world history (the Civil War surrender ceremony notwithstanding) especially in the event that true history ceases to be taught in our schools. This is an actual film made of the surrender ceremony of the Japanese to MacArthur in Tokyo Bay in September 1945. Actual voice of the General. Never been shown to the general public before. We always saw the "stills" but never the film itself.The quality of the film is outstanding. http://enka2.netorage.com:9711/harddisk/user/lyk36/mumess/376-macarthurjap.htm http://enka2.netorage.com:9711/harddisk/user/lyk36/mumess/376-macarthurjap.htm
  2. Don't forget disconnect both horns!!!
  3. Maybe he miss-identified the valve core as "stem"...
  4. Lets break it down very simply. For example only forget the bike's system and just think of a very simplified electrical circuit. It will start from the positive post of the battery. A wire runs from there to one terminal on the horn. From the other terminal of the horn a wire runs to one terminal of push button switch which has to be pushed to make connection between the two terminals of that switch. From the other terminal of the push button a wire is run to the negative post of the battery. When you push the button, the circuit is completed and the horn blows. Now to relate this to our bikes (RSVs and RSTDs). The horn button on the handlebar is the same as the push button mentioned above. It completes the circuit to ground (the negative battery terminal). That is the part that confuses some folks who are used to a switch sending positive voltage to a component, like the horn. Back to the bike, when the key is turned on, the system sends voltage, full time, to one terminal of the horn (there are two horns on an RSV, not sure about the RSTD) via the brown wire. The pink wire runs to the horn button. Some confusion is generated by trying to check voltages when only one horn is unplugged. If you are going to install after market horns of any kind I feel it would be prudent to add a relay to control them, as the factory wiring will not handle much additional load. Of course THAT opens a whole different discussion.
  5. While you have it apart, I would suggest that you put in a relay for the passing lights, if there is not one already. Doing so will get that load off the ignition switch AND will give you a separate point of failure, that will not take out the head light, leaving you in the dark.
  6. wes0778

    Tires

    Local independent shop here; $30.00 mounting if you buy the tire from him, $45.00 if you bring your own tire. His prices on the tires are $50.00 - $70.00 higher than you can buy online.
  7. It is my understanding that it cannot be done on the TD, 'cause the speedometer is in the way. I'm sure some more knowledgeable folks will chime in...
  8. Hey, I think I've seen that bike!!! :stickpoke: Now back to our regularly scheduled program...
  9. I have a 32 LED board in both my RSTC and the RSV. So far no problems at all with either. I did however buy mine from Biker Highway. The reason being THEY mentioned that their board had 3 LEDs for a tag light. Custom Dynamics did not mention the tag lights, although I think some members say that the C/D board does have them. I did order the LED running/brake light from C/D. http://www.customdynamics.com/knight_rider_nonsequential_led_video.htm
  10. Here's my '98 RSTC. I was under the impression it was a 67hp engine. Not a mouse motor by any means. It'll give the Hardleys fits
  11. 3rd gear, well at 96mph, maybe she was scared!!! :stickpoke:
  12. That's the first bike I bought too, 'cept mine was a '64 and black. I stripped it down and painted it candy apple blue. It was a repo that I bought it from my boss (I was working at the Greenwood Honda Shop). You'd be amazed at how that little engine would run bored .125", head ported and relieved, and with a 305 dream carb. makes a real street sleeper!!!
  13. The Dunlop 404s were the only WWW I could find. IMHO the 404s are an adequate tire for the Royal Stars. Most folks say they are a short mileage tire. I have about 3000 miles on the rear one of '98 RSTC and while I have not measured it, there IS noticeable wear on it. Again I have not measured the front tire (about 2000 miles on it) but no noticeable wear on it. Since my RSTC is a new (to me) ride, I don't have anything to compare handling. So, I can only say, to me, it handles fine. Others say the EIIs, EIIIs or Avons handle better.
  14. That looks like what I bought for mine...
  15. If you want a quick fix to get them in the "Ball Park", run down to Harbor Freight and pick up two of their $12.00 vacuum gauges. Hook them up on the two right carbs, sync them (screw on right side), move the gauges to the left side, sync them (the screw that takes the LONG screwdriver) then move the gauge from the left rear to the right rear and sync them (Screw on the left side). It won't get you as exact as the Carb Tune will, but will be close. As a side note, you will either have idle the engine up a good bit to stop the "stop to stop" needle oscillation, or you can pinch the rubber tubing, to create the dampening.
  16. Cannot speak from personal experience, but others on the site have expressed concerns about using Metzlers on these heavy bikes.
  17. The Cliff Notes version is: 1. Split the fairing 2. Take off the handlebars 3. Disconnect the inner fairing 4. Take the retainer nut off the triple tree 5. Loosen the clamp bolts and remove the top part of the triple tree 6. Remove the fork covers 7. Loosen the bottom fork clamp bolts 8. Make a mark on the fork tube the distance you want to lower the front (Max 1") 9. Push the tubes up to the mark 10. Re-assemble in reverse order. With the excellent folks that did mine, it takes about 3 hours. Ride and enjoy!!!
  18. Not at all, take an 8mm wrench, remove the old ones (just like taking a bolt out) and screw in the new ones. I guess because of the thread sealant on the speedbleeders they are tight going back in. You will lose some fluid as the old ones are removed, so I just used a rag to soak it up until I got the S/Bs inplace. Snug them down hook up the tubing and catch bag back them off maybe 1/4 turn and pump away. Pump the reservoirs almost dry and then clean out any "crud" built up in the bottom of the reservoirs. Refill with clean fluid and pump the lever/pedal until you get clean fluid coming out into the tubing. One word of caution keep a rag over the open clutch and front brake reservoirs as you pump the lever. If you don't the little geyser will get brake fluid on all the places you don't want it on. Also (don't ask) don't be looking directly into the open reservoirs, from above them, when you pump the lever. That is unless you are wearing a face mask. Getting the rear brake reservoir cap off/on will be the most time consuming part of this adventure.
  19. Put them on the RSV last weekend. I like them. Be sure to order the bag and the tubing!!! That takes MOST of the mess outa changing fluids. Now just gotta order a set for the RSTC...
  20. Being inseam challenged myself, I lowered the front end. Nothing needed other than help from Gunboat's hammer. :crackup: I think you could do both, to lower the entire bike, but if you do, from what I've heard you will need to shorten the kickstand. Otherwise you will have to be REALLY careful where you park it. Walter
  21. Guess Not, HUH??? :crying:
  22. Just a thought, if your seat is the black factory standard seat and will fit my '99 RSV, how 'bout I ship my seat for you straight to Day Long and you ship your seat to me? Only rub I need a seat for a ride this Saturday. Walter
  23. These guys are NUTZ :yikes:
  24. Lowered mine 800 miles ago and LOVE IT!!!
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