Jump to content

wes0778

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,347

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by wes0778

  1. wes0778
    If you use a drill bit just a little larger than the bolt head, could you not drill down just to the shank of the bolt and then slip the parts off and grab what's left sticking up with Vise Grips or a pipe wrench? Also, be very careful if you decide to try drilling a hole completely through the shank of the bolt to get as close to centered as you can. If you don't and leave a "half moon" shaped piece of threads in the hole, it can and most likely will turn and lock your ez-out or tap. THEN you really ARE in trouble!
  2. wes0778
    :sign yeah that::innocent: BTW There is a CB radio and wiring that is attached to the trunk...
  3. wes0778
    I noted that her weasel, uh lawyer, thought she was unfairly being made an example of. Well DAMN-IT THAT is exactly as it SHOULD BE!!! I wish laws were such that she could spend several hours each day of her sentence (rain or shine) sitting in front of the court house holding a sign saying "I'll never again paint my nails while driving!!!"
  4. wes0778
    :sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign20::stirthepot:
  5. wes0778
    Was never "full time" but was a sworn reserve officer for a total of 15 years split between Columbus, MS PD and Greenwood, MS PD.
  6. wes0778
    except mine....:bawling:
  7. wes0778
    Radiator cap is under the tank. :bang head: There is also a coolant recovery bottle behind the right side cover, below the seat. Only have to remove one of the socket head bolts and the cover snaps off. The other socket head bolts only fills up (hides) a hole.
  8. wes0778
    This is the set of "ball" wrenches I use... [ATTACH]44746[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]44747[/ATTACH] I'm probably wrong, but best I remember the 8 fairing screws take a 3mm wrench. The 2 passing light mounting bolts take 5mm.
  9. wes0778
    Been there done that!!! I always let the passenger get on/off while the bike is on the kickstand and I'm standing on the left side, to act as "catcher". The gyrations necessary to actually mount/dismount are up to her.
  10. wes0778
    That looks like the same seat I have for my '98 Tour Classic, minus the fringe. [ATTACH]44710[/ATTACH] It IS hard when you first sit down on it, but I have gotten used to it and it is my choice of seats for long rides on this bike. I do like the factory seat for short trips around town.
  11. wes0778
    If it ain't raining and what I'm going after will fit on the bike, I take the bike. Standard equipment even if I'm riding the one block to my son's house is helmet, Tourmaster jacket, jeans and gloves. On a long trip I wear the Vega boots, but boy they are hot and make my feet sweat. It is only about a mile to the local Wally-World and THAT is where I feel the most threatened (nuts on cell phone telling family "I'm on the way home".). I need to look into Kevlar jeans and some better boots.
  12. wes0778
    My suggestion is that the oil pressure switch be in the control circuit (terminal 85 or 86) of the relay, which would in turn carry the load between terminals 30 and 87.
  13. wes0778
    Rev limiter on both my bikes; 1st-46mph, 2nd-64mph, 3rd-96mph 4th-I quit when the RSV speedo maxed at 120, 5th-???
  14. wes0778
    some are variable, for example, if they are for an analog gauge, some are off/on, for example if they are for an oil pressure warning light.
  15. wes0778
    My vote is for Speed Bleeders. I have a unit VERY similar to this and I find it pulls air in the system around the bleeder screw threads. I wonder if Teflon tape carefully placed just on the threads would help?
  16. wes0778
    Just a suggestion, but add a normally open oil pressure switch. I think there is an oil pressure tap port on the lower right side of the engine, behind the oil level window. Tap the "supply" wire to the dimmer switch* and run it to one terminal on the oil pressure switch. Then run a wire to the #85 terminal on the relay and run a wire from #86 to a suitable ground. Run a fused suitable sized wire from the (+) battery post to terminal 30 on the relay and from terminal #87 to the HID circuit... *Since I haven't seen the schematic for the HID hook up, I don't know, but you may need to cut the supply wire to the dimmer switch.
  17. wes0778
    THAT is the way my RSV was wired when I got it and WHY I undid that and put the passing lights on a relay...
  18. wes0778
    If I remember right, one member found a mouse nest in the air box on the low mileage (long stored) RS.
  19. wes0778
    My thoughts are IF you already have passing lights on the bike, I'd add a SPDT (single pole double throw) relay in the circuit and a SPST (single pole single throw) manual switch to control the relay. hook the passing lights to the #87a relay terminal and the yellow fog lights to the 87 terminal. This way (i think:think:) the passing lights would be on and the fog lights off if the manual switch is off. Then when you turn on the manual switch, the passing lights would go off and the fog lights will come on.
  20. wes0778
    Question; before this failure, were the passing lights only on when the headlight was on low beam? If so I'm thinking dimmer switch failure.
  21. wes0778
    For what it's worth, on my bike, I also ran a second 14ga wire from the #87 relay terminal to one terminal (disconnect and tie back the factory wiring) on the 2nd factory horn behind the left lower fairing. Ground the other horn terminal. At least in my case THAT made the "hidden" factory horn louder.
  22. wes0778
    Just curious, did the stop sign runner stop to see if you were ok?
  23. wes0778
    Speedometer is in the way...
  24. wes0778
    May be a difference in the seat, itself, but with ALL the air out of the suspension I can almost get both heels down on kbran's 1st Gen. I have a 27" inseam. The other night when I got to ride it, I had no trouble at all. Well I did have trouble finding where to put my feet. Yeah, I missed my RSV floorboards!!! I was impressed with the slow speed handling, seemed much lighter than my RSV or RSTC.
  25. wes0778
    Cliff note version; Mount the relay that comes with the Stebel horn on a bolt under the coolant recovery bottle Hook the two wires from the original horn to terminals 85 and 86 on the relay Run a fused 14ga wire from the (+) battery post to the #30 terminal on the relay Run a 14ga wire from the #87 terminal of the relay to the (+) terminal on the Stebel horn From the (-) terminal on the Stebel horn to a suitable ground.
×
×
  • Create New...