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wes0778

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Everything posted by wes0778

  1. wes0778
    2 here
  2. wes0778
    If you don't want it higher (I didn't 'cause I'm only 5'6"), you can lower the front by an inch to get the same results. This involves pushing the front forks up an inch in the triple tree.
  3. wes0778
    prayers going up for all!!!
  4. wes0778
    Just curious, did you take the bulbs out of the housing, or use the housings as shown on N/T's web page http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200407598_200407598?issearch=127757 Do they create any electrical "noise" which interferes with the radios?
  5. wes0778
    No it is TOTALLY different!
  6. wes0778
    Help us ALL, She's BAAAAAAAKKKK!!!!! :yikes: :rasberry::rasberry: :crackup::crackup::crackup:
  7. wes0778
    Let me know when, I may just pester some of you for a bunk so we can change the oil in mine. AND if past history is any indication I'll need Thor's hammer!!!
  8. wes0778
    Just a thought, but if you buy the manual now, would they deduct that amount from the $660.00 when you actually order the kit?
  9. wes0778
    DECEMBER????? Heck I thought you were gonna learn all the "gotchas", pretty quick, so I could bring my bike out there and you could change the oil in it!!!
  10. wes0778
    My Don't know if you are inseam challenged like some of us, but leveling links will raise the rear of the bike about 1 inch, which will improve the slow speed handling. That was not an option for me. What I (and some other short folks) have done is to lower the front by 1 inch. Lowering the front accomplishes changing the geometry the same as raising the rear. Since I have a 27" inseam lowering the front allowed to almost get both heels down at the same time.
  11. wes0778
    If you mean the ones that clip on the crash bars, I have a "never installed" set. $150.00 plus shipping
  12. wes0778
    Depending on your return route if you get close to Jackson, MS, call me. The # is in my profile.
  13. wes0778
    Wiring is simple, it's the installation that may be difficult, Don't know where you would hide the converter on a TD, as you don't have a CB box... Here's my http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=568616&highlight=progress#post568616
  14. wes0778
    Also, the white wire on the trailer side is (or should be) connected directly to the trailer frame. So, trying to hook it to any one of the wires on the bike is gonna let some smoke out somewhere! Unless you rewire the trailer for 5-wire, you MUST install a 5-wire to 4-wire converter
  15. wes0778
    From what I've heard is every bike is ALWAYS $2000.00 short of being "finished"!!!
  16. wes0778
    2 hours??? That's not even a whole tank of gas! Wish I was closer, I'd be glad to ride it back for you.
  17. wes0778
    Darn, almost missed it!!! Walter
  18. wes0778
    Had one of these idiots split my lane between an 18 wheeler and me on the way home from Vogel. He went out ahead of us and almost ran into Kenny and Beth, by passing them on the right half of their lane.
  19. wes0778
    I cannot help you on your 1st gen, other than to say you will need a 5 wire into 4 wire adapter, available at most parts stores. I got mine at O'Reilly's. I bet it won't be long before some of the Maytag repairmen will chime in!!!
  20. wes0778
    I put those in my G2 W/S this year at MD. I guess I did it all wrong! I left the W/S on the bike and guessed a where I wanted the 1st one and marked where to drill the pilot hole. measured 2-3 times and had others (thanks Kirby!!!) help verify the 2nd location. Drilled the 2 pilot holes then attacked it with the hole saw from the front. Stopped half way through, went around to the back side of the W/S and completed the cut from that side. It does make a lot of sawdust but by the time I got back to Mississippi, all the dust was gone! Yeah, sometimes I'm a "here hold my beer and watch this!!!" kinda guy.
  21. wes0778
    I may be wrong, but from your 1st post I think you are looking for an "open" not a "short". That is if all the fuses were ok when you 1st started. A "short" blows fuses. You mentioned the back-off relay, if you can take it out of the circuit and see if your brake light starts working. Otherwise start behind the license tag with a volt meter and check for voltage at each connection in the circuit. Here is a link to online manuals from the tech section. http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1828&highlight=service%26amp%3Bmanual
  22. wes0778
    Think we saved you $12.00, huh??? Time to Join:missingtooth: don't ya think??? and BTW :welcome1:to the asylum!!!
  23. wes0778
    I did install a switch(it was already there) in the (red) main power wire, although I have, so far, not needed it. The light stays on just fine when I start the bike. The installation was very simple. I uses double sided tape to stick the ballast to a flat part of the inner fairing. Oh, there was one "opportunity" with the installation, the plastic fuse holder is "crap" so run by the local parts store and pick up one, before you start. Other than that I love it!!! It does however make my stock passing lights look like I have yellow fog light bulbs.
  24. wes0778
    :shock3::shock3::shock3: :rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf:
  25. wes0778
    Hey why not set up a fictitious "Lady" account, lead him on and meet him, for a "wall to wall" chat...
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