wes0778
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Everything posted by wes0778
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I'm gonna suggest that you pull the fairing and check to see that all the plugs are tight and that the pink wire has continuity through each plug. If the pink wire IS broken inside a harness, my suggestion is to cut the pink wire at both ends where the break is and run a new piece of wire parallel to the break. If you go cutting into a harness to make repairs, you are gonna have a mess trying to get the (cut in to and repaired) part of the harness back in the tunnels under the tank. Just my
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"Those convinced against their will are of the same opinion still."
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Oh I just use "Shark" as a parts book. Try Harbor freight, http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
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Brown wire = power to horn circuit - hooks to terminal 85 (or 86) on relay Pink wire = ground (through Horn Button) - hooks to terminal 86 (or 85) on relay A fused hot wire from the battery goes to terminal 30 on the relay From terminal 87 on the relay to the (+) post on the Stebel From the (-) on the Stebel run a wire to ground. My personal preference is to disconnect the factory wiring from the horn in the left lower and also run a wire from the 87 relay terminal to one terminal on that horn and then run a short wire from the other terminal on that horn to a suitable ground location. I used one of the horn mounting bolts. My
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Does the relay "click"? If not, the contacts in the button on the handlebars may not be making a good ground. Yes, The horn button makes a "ground" to complete the circuit.
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Yup! But if there is very much air in the system, you won't build sufficient pressure to push the Speedbleeder check ball off the seat. As mentioned above it may be necessary (I had to do this too) to use the original bleeder screw(with teflon tape) and Mity Vac, to get the majority of air out before installing the Speedbleeder(s)
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When mine did that I found the relay had quit working. BTW with the factory wiring, before the Steble, the front horn would barely make a sound. I wired it to the Steble relay and grounded it to the bike frame.
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Borrowed from a FB Friend... I was in a pub on Saturday night. Had a few drinks........ I noticed two large women by the bar. ... They both had strong accents so I asked "Hey, are you two ladies from Scotland?" One of them screamed "It's WALES you friggin' IDIOT!" So, I immediately apologized and said "Sorry, are you two whales from Scotland?" That's all I remember...
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1st off both are a Bi#ch to bleed under the best of circumstances:( Have you tried a vacuum bleeder? According to the parts book (from partshark.com) the complete front brake master cylinder is 4NK-W2587-02-00 (replaces 4NK-25870-00-00). The repair kit is 4K0-W0041-50-00 and the complete clutch master cylinder is 4NK-W2645-00-00. The repair kit is 3GM-W0099-00-00
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Mine got away like that 1st thing this morning. With the help of my wife, we cornered it for a time at a Waffle House but it got away again. We chased it all over Rankin County, before we finally caught it in the home driveway. But later on that afternoon, my son let turned it loose again, and he and I were FORCED to chase after it in Rankin County again for over 40 miles. I think it is finally secured at least for the night......
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I don't have any way to "link" to it, but if you wish I can put it on a CD and mail it to ya. (PM me your address) I downloaded it somewhere here on the site. just not sure from where.
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Makes me think about the cruel irony of an article I saw some time ago. I don't remember all the details, but there was a guy that was protesting helmet laws (again don't remember the state) in his state. He was with out one when he hit a parking lot bumper with his scoot. He fell over and hit his head on the pavement. He was pronounced dead at the scene...
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Right or wrong, the PureONE filters are all I have used on my bikes. Been getting them at Advance Auto, but I think this price is cheaper. Guess I'll be looking at our Wally World....
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Can you see the double lock nuts through the steering lock hole?
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Ride up here this week end and I'll get out my big hammer and punch....
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While you are at it, remove the passenger seat and clean the connections under there...
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Ignition Switch has gone south, or the plastic connector has melted.....
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Here ya go.....:cool10:
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Let me know the blink pattern and I'll see if I can help more. Gut feeling is the throttle position circuit is causing the "opportunity" but that is just a "SWAG"
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Those won't cover his '98 Royal Star. I have a manual(PDF) that will, and I think I downloaded it from this site, so I'll need to go look!
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My I tend to disagree about the ignition switch failure. When it fails, NOTHING works. No headlight, no dash indicators and no starter relay "clicking". I would lean more toward dirty battery cable connections or bad failing battery.
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Thanks!!! But I've had a relay on the headlight almost from the time I got the RSV. The Silverstar Ultra did look "bright white" next to the stock passing light(also on their own relay) bulbs.
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The butt to the seat doesn't work for me. I have to put my fat belly against the seat and push with my legs. The adrenalin from falling over helps too....
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It was just protesting being put on a trailer!!! :stickpoke::stickpoke::stirthepot::rasberry:
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2008 Rear Pass Seat Removal
wes0778 replied to Rickster's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Yes, except these are bolts and face straight forward.