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pegscraper

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Everything posted by pegscraper

  1. pegscraper
    I wouldn't worry about the stock pistons and rods. The D3K for this bike will only allow 8000 rpms. The stock bottom end can take that much. I wouldn't spend the money on putting the V-Max valves in. They're only 1mm larger with a 1/2mm smaller stem, meaing you need new guides also. They're not enough to make the cost and effort worthwhile. If you really want larger valves, go with aftermarket larger ones. I think it's PCW who has oversize valves. They're something like 2 or 3 mm larger, which would be more worthwhile. Unless you put oversize valves in, porting the heads won't gain anything significant either. I was really impressed with the smoothness of these castings. Cams/springs and bigger carbs are where you will see the most advantage. Cams and valve springs themselves are a straight swap. Stock Venture cams have 206* dur. @ .050 and .303 lift. Stock V-Max cams have .236* dur. @ .050 and .325 lift. The V-Max cams are very similar to what the old XS1100s had, which did not have any V-boost. Both PCW and Webcams have larger cams than that available. One or the other or maybe both of these companies have adjustable cam gears that would let you degree the cams in and set any amount of cam advance and overlap you want. Bigger cams in this engine require a modified airbox, or you're just wasting half the potential. The stock airboxes are really convoluted. Even then the engine could take more induction capability, which is why I installed the V-boost. In the 2nd gens, I'll tell you, that is a JOB. Not for the timid. It requires custom work on the intake boots and the V-boost valves themselves. Then are numerous other tiny little issues and details that have to be addressed and fiddled with to get it all finished and functional. But it can be done. Here is a pic. Just try adjusting the sync screws with this thing in the way. These carbs weren't designed with V-boost in mind. I'll tell you, this thing runs like stink. Just take all the adjectives the 1st genners use to describe how fast they think their bikes are, and then double them.
  2. pegscraper
    Any witnesses with cameras? Post some pics. Not that I don't believe it. I just want to see it anyway.
  3. pegscraper
    Yes, do it with a full tank of gas, then there's no room in the tank for vapors and liquid gasoline doesn't burn. Make your punch super sharp too, then it won't slip and possibly make sparks when you hit it with the hammer. Quite a bit more gas will fit in the tank and you get several more miles out of a tank of gas.
  4. pegscraper
    Thanks.
  5. pegscraper
    I know a few of you here own or have owned a Roadstar. What size of carburetor do they have, and are they downdraft or sidedraft style? I'm not where I can look at one.
  6. pegscraper
    ...get up and go in luxury. That's me. I'm a guy who likes to hot rod Cadillacs, and have. I'd rather look bad and win, than look cool and lose. (A while back I had this phrase in my sig: Never run a bike that looks or sounds faster than it is.) And the bonus is that RSTDs don't even look bad. They look better than any HD. HD should take a few styling lessons from Yamaha. Round and square shapes on the same bike just don't go together.
  7. pegscraper
    I'd like to add a question to this. How much difference is there in wind protection between the two, with one having a full fairing and the other having just a windshield?
  8. pegscraper
    Exactly. It took 262 more ccs plus modifications to make it only a little faster than a stock RSTD. V-twins are the most efficient way I know of to turn gasoline into noise. I'll grant it is a cool noise. I like the way they sound going down the road by my house. But I don't like their performance. When it comes to what I want to own and ride, it's horsepower, and a pushrod V-twin just doesn't make it.
  9. pegscraper
    My dealer tells me that the RSTD will take out the Roadliner anyway. V-twins need at least 500cc more to even have a chance of keeping up, and they still don't. Who wants a V-twin? I like my cruiser with a sportbike engine. It makes a real sleeper. Just have to correct the factory's detuning.
  10. pegscraper
    The D3K would be necessary to raise the rev limit, or you won't see the maximum benefit from the cams. Actually the V-Max ports are the same size as what we already have. I had a set of V-Max heads once and compared them to our stock ones. The V-Max valves are 1mm larger with a 1/2mm smaller stem diameter, which isn't real significant. There are aftermarket valves available that are 2 or 3mm larger, which would make a difference. You would also have to have new guides put in the heads for the smaller stem diameter. By the time you're done that adds up to a bunch of bucks. The V-Max rear gear has a little lower gear ratio. The V-Max gear ratio is 9/33, where all Ventures and Royal Stars have 10/33. It's enough to make a noticeable difference in acceleration, but not enough to do anything to gas mileage. The V-boost system comes on all American V-Max bikes. Some foreign ones don't have it. It is a passage that runs between the front and rear intake boots on each side. It has a butterfly valve in it that opens up to allow any given cylinder to breathe from two carburetors. The V-boost parts fit nicely in the 1st gen Ventures. Putting them in the 2nd gens is a real project. It takes a lot of modification. On the V-Maxes, the V-boost opens automatically starting at 6000 rpms and is fully open at 8000 rpms. Some owners will modify the system to open at lower rpms than that. At the moment I have mine set up to open manually, and I generally run it open all the time once the engine warms up. The last dyno run I got was after I had swapped cams and carbs, but before the V-boost, and I was making 106 hp at the crank. With the V-boost I have to be getting close to 115 hp, and I haven't used oversize valves or larger aftermarket cams. It's all Yamaha factory stuff. Once I get the jetting ironed out I will get another dyno run. Here are a couple pics of the V-boost valves.
  11. pegscraper
    Was that 115 hp at the rear wheel or the crank? And what exactly does the $2300 buy you? If you can do the work yourself, you can put V-Max cams in the thing for a fraction of that. They go by on ebay from time to time. V-Max cams will open up the top end for you, but they aren't big enough yet to lose anything on the bottom. Have you swapped in the V-Max rear gear? That will give you more acceleration all the way around. I've put both V-Max cams and the V-boost valves in my bike, as well as ditched the 28mm carbs that the older Royal Stars have for the 32mm carbs that you already have. I'm creeping up on that hp level, if not there yet. I haven't done a dyno run since adding the V-boost, as I'm still ironing out the jetting. I operate the valves manually at the moment. Opening them up feels like pushing a NOS button. This engine can still use more air though. This winter I will be looking into seeing how much the carbs can be bored out.
  12. pegscraper
    I've never checked the temperature of the rear gears after a ride, so I don't know how hot they might get. I would wonder if they pick up some heat from the mufflers, too. The only real rule we have around here is that new members have to post pics of their ride. So let's see some. I particularly like the '96 - '01 Royal Stars myself.
  13. pegscraper
    Plugs and K&N filters by themselves with no other airbox mods won't require any rejetting. Mufflers may or may not. On this bike probably not, as these bikes seem to be jetted a bit rich to start with.
  14. pegscraper
    Thanks again. I had thought the the radiator fan was coming on more frequently than usual lately on this trip, but wasn't real sure. When I level the bike it reads full, so apparently I don't need any. It must just be my imagination.
  15. pegscraper
    I need to ask this only because I'm on the road and don't have my owner's manual or shop manual with me. When checking the antifreeze level in the tank behind the right side cover, is the bike supposed to be level and balanced or leaning over on the side stand? It makes a huge difference in what the level reads. The bike in question is a '96 Royal Star, if that makes any difference. TIA.
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