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pegscraper

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Everything posted by pegscraper

  1. pegscraper
    Since you've ridden both, maybe you can answer a question for me. What exactly makes the big difference in comfort between the two?
  2. pegscraper
    What sizes is the stuff?
  3. pegscraper
    Bigger valves are for higher air flows, which will increase not only with higher rpms, but also by increasing displacement even if you only stay at lower rpms. By machining the carbs, do you mean boring them out? I looked at that once myself, as I have a lathe and a mill. But I didn't think these carbs had much meat to give. I'd be afraid to bore them more than 1mm bigger in diameter, and that's not enough to make a real significant difference anyway. Then you'd also have to turn out your own throttle plates. If there's one thing I've learned in my playing around with engines, the biggest key is that you get the most out of the engine when all the parts are sized to match and complement each other. Increasing the displacement on an engine that's already borderline too big for the carbs and cams that set on top of it is only going to make the mismatch of parts worse. IMHO this is not the angle that needs attacked first. I hear ya, Squeeze, the only substitute for ccs is more ccs. But the package of parts need to be complementary. It may be great out of the hole, but unless I miss my guess it's going to fall on its face on the interstate. The carbs will be running at their max and won't have anything more to give. This is why so many around here notice that gas mileage goes down the tubes when they try to hold more than about 75 mph for very long (and that's on a stock size engine). The carbs are running at their maximum capacity. If they were bigger that wouldn't happen. (When I run my manually operated V boost wide open on the interstate I notice that gas mileage doesn't go down. Before I put that in, I used to notice the same gas mileage drop on the interstate that every one else does. That tells me that the engine needs more airflow on the highway, and these 32mm carbs aren't big enough to give the engine what it's asking for.) Like I said before, it'll be interesting to see how it turns out. I wish I could have a chance to ride it when it's done.
  4. pegscraper
    Are you sure that the 32mm carbs can support 1500ccs well enough? The older Royal Stars have 28mm carbs on 1300ccs which was a really bad mismatch and clobbered their performance. Even Y realized that and corrected it to some extent in the later bikes. But putting 1500ccs underneath 32mm carbs is creating almost as bad of a mismatch as that was. The 32mm carbs are barely big enough to feed the stock 1300ccs. Even the 1st gen Ventures have 34mm carbs on them. A 1500cc engine will badly need bigger carbs than 32s. The V Max has 35mm carbs on 1200ccs and they say that they are still too small. Then you still have cams that aren't big enough to feed 1500ccs. Really, there are a lot of easier things you can do before pulling the engine apart. Best to make the most of the displacement you have before adding more displacement that the rest of the parts won't very well support. You're sure starting out with the biggest possible mod first. Is this going to be a winter project? If you're going to have the engine apart and the heads off, for that much displacement, I'd recommend putting bigger valves in while you're at it. It'll be interesting to see how it turns out.
  5. pegscraper
    FI is great for people who don't know how to work on anything nor operate a choke. They can just push a button and go. But injectors clog easily, and electronic parts can go bad at any time with no notice at all. FI is great... until it breaks. Then it's mega bucks to fix. With a minimum of general maintenance, carbs will run forever. Gas stabilizer in the winter is all they need for years at a time. Having carbs also means you can still easily modify your bike for more performance.
  6. pegscraper
    Our local postmaster had an '86 of that color for many years. He wasn't a member here though. He told me that the official name of the color was dark cherry and aztec gold, or something like that. It sure looked brown to me. It could be seen at the side of the post office building on any day with clear weather. He sold it just this past summer, and for some reason hasn't replaced it with anything yet. I'm not sure why.
  7. pegscraper
    No it won't. The V Max cams are just not that big. Keep making the cams bigger and bigger and you'd start to be right. But stock V Max cams aren't big enough yet for that to happen. The stock Venture cams are very, very small.
  8. pegscraper
    More nay sayers. Downshifting doesn't make more hp. And a 15 - 20 hp increase is significant even in a car, much more so in something with only a 1.3 liter engine and weighing only 800 lbs. like our bikes. The V Max engine would probably fit in our frame. But why? Believe it or not, the Venture block is heavier and stronger than the V Max block. We already have a stouter short block to start with. We just have a weaker top end. Some of the V Max boys who want to build up a radical engine will start with a Venture block and fit it into their frames. With the hp boost I've given my bike, I'm making real close to what a Valkyrie is doing. I've never raced a Valk, or anything else for that matter. A Valk could probably still beat me. But I'm thinking I could give him a real hard way to go. I like the Valks a lot, especially the red and white '97 (wouldn't you know). It's too bad Honda Ruined them and then quit making them. But in the small details and trim items, I like the looks of the Royal Star and RSV better. Actually I have ridden my bike pretty ambitiously against my brother who owns a '95 Kaw GPZ1100, basically a Ninja without the name (see pics in my gallery). In a straight line up to about 70 mph, I keep right up with him. He can't pull away from me. Outside of those parameters, I don't really care. He has ridden my bike a couple times, and his comments were that it felt heavy and awkward compared to what he was used to, but that if you nail the throttle, you had better know where the front wheel is pointed, because you're going somewhere very fast.
  9. pegscraper
    V Max cams will fit the RSV. I once had a set of RSV heads setting on the bench. They are the same thing as mine with two exceptions. Mine don't have the air tubes in the exhaust ports for the AIS, and the intake manifold bolt pattern is different as they tried to prevent bigger carbs from being installed. As you might know from my carb swap article, I figured out how to get around that.
  10. pegscraper
    Indeed, the V Max cams are a drop in fit. I have them and I know of a few others who do too. I don't know where the notion that they won't came from. Any aftermarket cams for the V Max will also fit ours. Webcams and PCW Racing both make some. I'm with you here, BK. A 1300cc engine ought to be making more power than this one does. It has a lot more capability. I get real tired of the questions about why do we think we need more power. I like plenty of power. What difference does it make whether I'm on a touring bike or a sportbike? There was a day when Cadillac made the fastest cars on the road, and they were putting dual quads and triple deuces and full dual exhaust on their engines. Many of the guys on this board are old enough to remember this. I don't know why the concept of a hot rodded Cadillac is so hard to understand. V Max cams are a bare minimum. They're not really all that big anyway, and the stock cams here are way too small. Swap in the V Max springs while you're at it. If you don't go any bigger than stock V Max cams, the bottom end does not suffer at all. The stock cams are so small that half the potential powerband is below idle speed. (It gets a bit academic.) V Max cams bring the low end of the powerband right up to idle speed. Any bigger than that and you would start to lose low end power. More displacement isn't going to gain much because the stock carbs are barely big enough for 1300cc as it is. More ccs mean that they're even more inadequate. What really needs to happen is to put the 35mm V Max carbs on the bike. It'll be a job getting them to fit in the frame and under the tank though. The next real step is to use the D3K for the V Max rather than the one made for the RSV. The one made for our bikes is better than nothing, but the spark advance curves aren't very good and the rev limiter is too low. The V Max unit has real performance curves in it, and will allow higher rev limits, which, with the V Max valve springs, you can really use. It will take some cutting and splicing of wires to get it done, but it will bring the most out of the engine. By "cleaning up the heads", do you mean porting? I'm a big believer in porting heads. However these ports look really good for stock castings. If you're going to do that, you ought to put larger valves in too. V Max valves are 1 or 2 mm bigger. They also require new valve guides as the V Max valves have a 5.5mm stem and ours are 6mm. And if you're going to go to that trouble, you may as well put even larger than V Max valves in. Get them from the same companies that make aftermarket cams. All that said, all I really have over a stock RSV is V Max cams, V Max rear gear, an opened up airbox with carbs rejetted to match, and the D3K (the one made for our bikes). I'm making about 15 rear wheel hp more than a stock RSV. You might start there and see what you think.
  11. pegscraper
    You do realize too, don't you, that the formula only figures what CFM the engine will draw, and says nothing about what these carbs will actually flow? It also assumes 100% breathing efficiency, which is virtually never the case. Even 85% breathing efficiency is really high. You could cut that CFM rating down at least to 85%, if not less. I'll do some digging around and see if I can come up with any CFM figures for these carbs anywhere.
  12. pegscraper
    The formula looks correct, right off. Make sure to use the bore and stroke dimensions in inches, which you did. With one carb per cylinder, you won't multiply by 4 though. You'd only do that if you're using one carb for all four cylinders. I'm curious about the CFM capability of these carbs too, as well as the 35mm V Max carbs and the 32mm carbs from the RSV.
  13. pegscraper
    Okay, what is the half disc mod? I've never heard of that one. If weak springs is the first reason why the clutch starts slipping, here's another idea - the double D clutch mod. This is written for the V Max, but ours is the same thing. There is a lot of stuff we can use on the vmaxoutlaw site. http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/double-d.htm Actually, I virtually never shift into neutral at a stoplight, only if there is already someone behind me and it is apparent that we're going to be sitting there a while. I've probably only done it two or three times. I don't tend to ride real hard, at least not while slipping the clutch.
  14. pegscraper
    Is there one anywhere that will work on a Mac? They left Mac out completely.
  15. pegscraper
    The V Max rear gear swap helps a lot. Other than that there's not much to be done for lower rpm power. The V4 engine likes to rev up, that's just the way it is. Freebird was far from the first one to do this swap. People have been doing this since '96 when the Royal Star first came out. I did mine two years ago, shortly after getting the bike. He was the first one around here who got anyone to listen to him about it. If you happen to have access to a machine shop, you can make the V Max rear gear and housing work for a whole lot less than Sportmax gets for it. Machine the boss flat and bore a hole for the speedo sensor, and bore and tap a hole for the mounting bolt. Then unscrew the shock mount bolt, and it's ready to go. There is no adjustable suspension for this bike. About all you can do is lower it and let that be it. I would start by lowering the front. It's not hard, and doing the front is free, but it takes a while to get to the front shock tube bolts.
  16. pegscraper
    That's a real nice looking cabinet. How did you do the lettering? Can you determine how many degrees from TDC the spark is advanced with this?
  17. pegscraper
    What kind of mileage does our clutch generally have in it, and what kind of symptoms happen when it's worn out? Does it just quit hooking up and slips all the time? My bike has close to 45,000 miles on it now, and I'm doubting that the clutch has ever been touched, seeing as how I got it with less than 15,000. I've heard of some that were worn out by the mid 30s. I'm not having any problems with it yet. I just don't know what to expect or what happens. I've never worn a clutch out in any vehicle.
  18. pegscraper
    Could a guy with MS handle a gun? I don't know. The other problem is that Canada's government doesn't like their people having guns, and most Canadians I know don't believe in owning one or see much of a need. I have cousins in Canada who make fun of me for owning them. Long live the NRA. ...from my cold, dead hands...
  19. pegscraper
    The other angle about power draw is that the ratings are a maximum. One outfit may be higher powered than another, but then it doesn't need to be on as long either.
  20. pegscraper
    Well, duh. If I would just look around a little bit more. Some people. Thanks.
  21. pegscraper
    Putting vaseline, an oil based product, or most any other kind of grease on rubber will cause it to break down and fail prematurely. If you want to do this, use a synthetic grease designed to be used on rubber. A specialty brake supply shop will have it, if not the regular parts houses.
  22. pegscraper
    My first thought at Don's very first post here was - we removed the post counter and now we're putting this up? Maybe this could be put in the profile instead of appearing by the board name all the time. Isn't that where the post counter is now? I never look at it.
  23. pegscraper
    What's the power draw on the Synergy gear? I don't see anything listed on their site. Their prices sure do look nice. Does anybody have any comments about a full jacket liner vs. just a vest (brand no matter)? Do your arms stay warm enough without the heated arm pieces? Heated gloves would probably help that anyway.
  24. pegscraper
    One fix that worked for me and a few others is to tape a metal shim to the boss inside the fin cover where it goes against the plug. Then when you put the fin covers on, that pushes the plug in a little farther and seals up the leak. Mine used to start leaking about this time of year when it got cooler. I'd go out in the morning and find a few drops on the floor. The first year I didn't do anything about it. Then the next summer it quit doing it. Then come fall it started up again, and I did this shim fix.
  25. pegscraper
    I've done both the narrower front tire and raised the back of the bike, and I don't think it's overkill. I like it. It's a matter of how much you want to improve the handling.
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