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pegscraper

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Everything posted by pegscraper

  1. Cold temperatures don't stop me. I start riding as soon as the salt has been washed off of the roads.
  2. I see. You're machining and welding make your own intakes. It undoubtedly can be done. It just seems like a lot of machining work. I suppose there's not much choice though. I don't know any other way to do it. I have a lathe and mill in my shop, and I don't know that I would feel like doing that. But I'm no master machinist by any means. And you want to make TWO sets of these things? Wow. I suppose the second set would go much quicker though, as you have all the setups figured out by then. The '96 - '01 Royal Stars have 28mm carbs, and a smaller intake cam to match. But the '99 and newer RSVs and '05 and newer RSTDs all have 32mm carbs, and a slightly more appropriate intake cam. I would think he'd about have to make custom intakes for that. Otherwise, you're right, the stock intake boots (of either size) would be too restrictive for 38mm or bigger TBs. I'm not sure how they could even be mounted in the stock intakes. The TBs are just physically too big for them.
  3. My bike does not track pavement ridges and grooves the way you say. I find only continued improvement having done both. I don't find that I get blown all over by the wind either. I like the improved handling results. And I know I'm not the only one around here who has done both and likes it. If someone doesn't like both, then don't do both. It really is just subjective as to what matches a person's riding style. But there's nothing dangerous about it whatsoever.
  4. A 28mm inlet, Squeeze? Specifically what area are you referring to as the "inlet"? The cross section of the intake port at the intake boot mounting surface is a 30mm x 40mm oval with an area equivalent to about a 38.5mm diameter circle. I'm assuming he'll fabricate his own intake boots to mount the TBs to the heads. I'm doubting that the port cross section area in the heads will be a problem. Am I correct, you're fitting your R1 TBs to your V Max, not your Venture? I'd be curious how you're fabricating the intake boots.
  5. What diameter are the throttle bodies you've gotten? The front to back spacing of the stock carbs is 80mm on centers. The side to side spacing is tough to give because the left and right carb banks are not parallel. They tip in towards the top. About the best I know to give you is the measurements at the tops of the intake boots as they set on the engine. Inside to inside is 125mm, outside to outside is 200mm. These are from the inside lip of the intake, where the carbs touch. The stock carbs are 32mm inside dia. The plugs are triggered from a crank sensor on the left side of the crankshaft. Firing order is 1-3-2-4. Best to get a shop manual for more information on that stuff. My only question is why? What is the point of going to all the trouble to fit FI? And I don't want to hear all the theoretical advantages of FI over carbs. I know all those. What I want to know is what are going to be the real world results and differences when it's finished and done. What differences are you going to be able to tell when you're on the road riding it? The drivability of these bikes stock is excellent. They're not cantankerous at all. They start right up and run and go, in any temperature in which you care to ride. Is it really that much trouble to have to operate a manual choke?
  6. It's pretty gray and gloomy here in northern IN. No sun anywhere. An early spring is always hoped for.
  7. Using the narrower front tire does make additional improvement, even with the leveling links. I've done both and like it. Some don't like it. But overkill it is not. It's a matter of how much you want to improve the handling. It's a subjective thing.
  8. Yeah, that. Or tires. Nobody disagrees on anything about tires.
  9. I guess she'll just have to scratch build that bike, too.
  10. Very nice work. Now we just need to find a model of an RSV to go in it. I have literally a closet full of unbuilt model cars that I've collected over several years. No time to do them anymore like I used to. Maybe when I retire, but that's a ways away for me. Sigh.
  11. Without a heated garage, it's pretty hard to want to go out there and do anything on the bike, or the car I'm trying to restore either. My winter projects pretty well have to wait until spring. All I can do right now is dream up ideas. Actually, my winter projects happen inside the house. I'm currently rebuilding an old grand piano for myself, and just last weekend hauled another free one in that I will do some work on and sell.
  12. You said it pretty well, Don. Anything I would say here would just be repeating something you've already said. No one's going to change my mind and I'm not going to waste any effort trying to change someone else's. Wanna talk politics, do it somewhere else.
  13. Corn furnaces? Constant attention and fiddling, cleaning, corn storage facilities and keeping the darn mice out of the stuff, and the fact that it won't keep working while you're gone - no thanks. And the price of corn is going up too. Don, in our part of the country, if you don't have natural gas available, propane is about the next best option. I've been told that the best way to do propane is to buy your own tank, and have a very large one, two if necessary. Have enough tank capacity to carry you through the winter, and then you can fill up in the summer when the price is down. Owning your own tank means that you can shop around for price when you need a fill up instead of being tied to one company. I know someone near me who did this. He has two 1000 gallon tanks. And IIRC, he told me that because he saves so much in gas costs, that he got back the cost of the equipment and installation inside of two years. After that, it's all savings. While our current residence does not use propane for heat, our previous residence did. I know how much the propane companies love that winter time fill up. They will clean your clock. When I can see my way to doing it, our current place will also be on propane, but set up to where I don't have to fill up in the winter.
  14. Why yes, they're from the Electric Amish, don't you know. They take that little energy to run and they put out that much heat??? Not buying it. That ratio is way out of whack. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
  15. The point of him saying that the choke is not actually a choke is that this statement isn't true. Having the choke on doesn't restrict air flow at all. Unusual for the Goose. He usually knows what he's talking about. If you can squirt carb cleaner on the cracks in the intakes and get an rpm change, you certainly have found a vacuum leak, and fixing those will make a difference.
  16. Gee, I read that wrong too then. But I still took it as just a joke.
  17. Baron's weight ends are an option. But they're not as big and heavy. And then because ultimately they connect to the handlebars only through the rubber of the grips themselves, I wonder if their effectiveness would be reduced that little bit more, and especially the throttle side, because that grip doesn't mount solidly to the handlebars at all. It's left sloppy loose as that grip has to twist. How much good can that do? Anything that mounts directly to the bars themselves and not to the grips will do a better job. Of course, Baron's weights are much easier to install.
  18. I did mine a little differently. I knew I wanted to keep the K grips, but didn't know whether I would want the weights or not. (My bike didn't originally have the weights.) So I didn't want to gouge out the ends of the grips and then not be able to put the end caps back on if I wanted. I figured better to ruin the weights than the grips. So I chucked the weights in a metal lathe and turned the shoulder off so they would fit through the existing holes in the grips. Blue loctite holds them solid. It turns out I like the weights, so the means didn't matter much. The result is the same. Because my bike never had the weights, I had to acquire a couple metric nuts with the correct thread, turn them down in the lathe, and weld them inside the handlebars. Now I just need to figure out a way to attach K's leather fringe ends to these weights instead of to their own end caps. As far as vibration elimination goes, I've always been curious just how solid the bars would feel if they were filled up solid with aluminum or lead. One day I might get ambitious and melt down some old pistons or something and pour it into the handlebars just to see what happens.
  19. A tourniquet. That means he lost his foot anyway.
  20. It's not difficult to do. The weights do make a difference.
  21. Getting rid of that extra rear gear, eh? Don't forget that thing will fit in a USPS flat rate box, and I think they lose money on that one. The couple things I would have liked are already gone.
  22. I'm missing something. You say they take a single D. DT and also their website link above say they take four AAs. Did you get different gloves? Or are the four AAs run in parallel and you modifed them to take a single D instead? Fill me in a little bit please.
  23. Where are you going to put 4 D batteries per glove? Four D cells would be pretty heavy. And... let us know how you like them. I'm itching to order a set myself.
  24. Eck, is your write up of how you did these grip extensions still around? Where can I find it? I'd like to see some of the details of this.
  25. DT, have you had opportunity to use these any more? Are you still liking them?
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