pegscraper
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Everything posted by pegscraper
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I almost always wear them. Generally I don't when I'm store hopping in town and don't get going more than about 45 or so. Above that and the wind noise gets too much, and I will find my ears ringing at the end of the day because of it. Wearing a helmet almost seems to make the effect worse. I use the basic white foam type. I'm finding that they seem to break down after a time, and while the volume level seems like it's reduced, they don't stop the ringing effect. Lately I've been changing them out more often than I used to. I hope that helps reduce the ringing. The ringing in my ears stinks. It really has me quite concerned, but I don't know what else I can do about it. I've tried different kinds of plugs and nothing else seems to make any difference either. I will admit that I feel a little sheepish if there are people around when I put them in. I try to do it in one sweeping motion of reaching up to remove my glasses when I put the helmet on.
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I've heard that state referred to as Minnesnowta.
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If that BAK is only listed up to '01, it will certainly not fit your bike. The earlier Royal Stars had only 28mm carbs, where yours has 32mm carbs. Four pods will fit under your tank, but you'll have to get them individually from K&N.
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Those are windmills, once used to drive a pump for a well. I know the one in the back is still hooked up, but I don't think they use it. It's hard to tell the scale in the pic, but it is quite tall. Sorry pal, they are not weather vanes.
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Wow, what a fine looking ba- I mean bike. Is there a bike in that picture? I do like that black and white Roadstar. It really isn't hooky if you take a vacation day, is it? I did that once last summer too. I was headed to a shop where I was supposed to do some work that day. It was a fabulous day, weatherwise. They don't get any better than that day was. I got to the road the shop was on where I should have turned down, and I throttled right on by and kept on going.
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One windmill coming up. This one was a cinch for me. I rode all the way across the street to my neighbor's place. Oh wait, I see two windmills. The first doesn't have blades on it though. The second one does, although I don't think they use that one either. Shooting almost straight into the sun here. I lightened this up quite a bit. When I told them what I was doing, they laughed and said I should make the next target a buffalo. They raise them over there. I've seen some other exotics there too. At one time they had a bear. I'll make it a little easier than that though. Next target is you, your bike, and an old, rusty farm implement. The kind you see shoved into a corner of a woods or a field. Must be one that would have been pulled behind a tractor or horses.
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I don't know what Baron's BAK consists of. The only real alternative to the stock setup is to get four K&N pods, then rejet the carbs and add an extra shim under the needles to match. I could help you out with a place to start for rejetting if you need that. (I'd bet that finding the parts yourself would be cheaper than the BAK.)
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That sounds abnormally cold natured. Mine generally just starts up and goes, no matter what the temperature. Without looking at it in person though, I don't really know what to suggest for you.
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Just so your Saturdays off don't hit in the middle of WINTER!
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I'm not very far north of you either. Let me know if you are getting something together. My number's in the member's list.
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Nope, it won't affect anything else. And if I'm reading this thread right, the '83s are the only ones that had a ported vacuum source on the vacuum sensor anyway. Every year after this it is run from a sync port on an intake. Correct? Hook it up to the intake manifold, and it will be just the same as the later ones. If you do a lot of in town riding where the engine idles a lot, you may notice it running cooler, because that's where the ported/manifold vacuum issue makes a difference. On the highway it won't make a bit of difference in engine temperature, because these two sources of vacuum are virtually the same at anything above idle speed.
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If you want all these 2nd gen accessories, maybe you should just get a 2nd gen.
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I saw this yesterday, and nope, I don't. A friend of mine here had an '86 up until a couple years ago. But now I don't know anyone who has a 1st gen where I can go compare things. I'm doubting the fake engine fins will fit though. Don't you have a bunch of plastic covers in that area? All I can suggest is to go to a dealer where you can look at a new one and see what fits.
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The boiling point of the fluid is all it (ahem) boils down too. Dot 4 will be higher.
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Vacuum level is different than air flow. At idle with the throttle plates virtually closed, vacuum above the throttle plates will be zero and vacuum below the throttle plates will be at its highest. At anything higher than just off of idle speed, as the throttle plates start to open, these two vacuum sources will become almost exactly the same level and respond to the throttle opening in the same way. No vacuum on the vacuum sensor at idle retards the spark advance and it makes the engine burn hotter at idle, supposedly burning a little cleaner. If you're in town with extended periods of engine idling, if you have a temperature gauge on the engine, you will see it running noticeably hotter. Late spark timing is also hard on gas mileage. Vacuum on the vacuum sensor at idle - advanced spark timing at idle - makes the engine run cooler, smoother, and gets better gas mileage in town. This general principle of spark advance is true for any engine. In the '70s with the early attempts at emissions controls on cars, the vacuum advance on the distributor was run from a source above the throttle plates, and then run through a bunch of vacuum switches that would prevent vacuum from getting to it until the engine was fully warmed up, and until the transmission was shifted into third gear. On my cars, this poppycock was always pulled out and thrown away, and the vacuum advance was run straight to a port on the intake manifold, below the throttle plates, where it belongs.
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I thought of that too, a pic with your bike in front of a propane tank. Our previous home had a LP tank in the back yard. Our current one doesn't.
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I'm thinking that squealing and the singing I'm talking about are different things. I prevent the squealing by a disc brake quiet product that goes on the backs of the pads against the pistons. Chamfering the leading edge of the pads is a new one on me. I'll try that next time too. The singing I'm talking about isn't a harsh tone at all. It's a clean, smooth, high pitch sound, kind of similar to a crystal glass set into vibration with a wet finger. The volume level sets in gradually. The first time I heard it, it was rather startling. I didn't know whether it was something on my bike or some sound in the neighborhood. It took me several more stops to identify it as my front brakes. When I left my covers with the damper off one time, that's when it started for me. And it quit when I put the damper back on.
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I'd bet the vacuum sensor is the same thing. The 0" of vacuum at idle idea is an emissions controls stunt. That used to be done on cars starting around the '70s before the spark advance was controlled by computers. It's called "ported vacuum". Prior to that the distributors were always run on manifold vacuum. Any car I ever had always got the distributor switched back to manifold vacuum. They run better. I'd say hook your vacuum sensor to one of your carb sync ports for a manifold vacuum source and be done with it.
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Keep it up and we'll have to call you floorboard scraper.
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By dust covers, do you mean the discs that cover up half of the rotors leaving only the pad surface exposed? Does one of them have a weight on the inside of it? You might find your front brakes singing at you whenever you apply them without that damper weight installed. Singing is the word for it too. If it happens, you'll know what I mean. I tried leaving mine off once too, but found that I had to put mine back on for that reason. If you want less bulky looking covers on there, you might try some from a Roadstar or a V Star. They would still have the damper weight on the inside. Another option might be to try some of the floating rotors from a newer Roadstar or other bike that takes the same ones. That floating rotor design cures the singing oscillation without the damper weights.
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The Roadstar, which has the same front end geometry as our bikes do but with no fairing, has a 130 sized front tire as stock. That was good enough for me. Some of us are running both the 130 front tire and using leveling links and liking it. I don't have trouble with crosswinds.
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That guy is full of it on resale value. If you're really worried about it, get a spare seat to keep around. Put whatever seat on there you like. Wow, words, that seat is gorgeous. I'll show that to my wife. She'll love it. She wants a white bike with a tan seat like that. Yes, the Millennium model Venture is white with a tan seat. The white/tan seat version of the earlier Royal Stars is called a Palomino, after the horse, I suppose, and the seat is tan to resemble a horse's saddle.
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I saw those things too. A waste of money. Losing hp by running too hot? By the time the engine is hot enough to start losing hp, you already have a lot worse problems on your hands than that. If the engine is running too hot, you may have a stuck thermostat that can't open up all the way any more and allow the full cooling capacity. It happens sometimes. If the thermostat is actually opening all the way and the engine is still running too hot, ultimately what would be needed is a bigger radiator. In neither of these cases will bringing the fan on earlier help anything at all. Someone scooped up some parts somewhere and is making an issue where there isn't one.
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I've run two sets of D404s and got right around 15,000 miles out of them both. I had no complaints about them and I'd run them again. If I wanted the stock size front tire, that is. I like the narrower front tire, and I want white walls, and this isn't available in the D404. So I run the Avons.
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You mean requesting work on a bike? Not looking for work, right? Thanks from me for the throttle cables.
