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pegscraper

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Everything posted by pegscraper

  1. Checking float levels should be routine for anyone who owns this bike. No two floats in mine were the same at all, and only one was anywhere close to spec. They were a long ways off. Setting the floats the same will have a similar effect as syncing the carbs, as it gets them all working the same. It had a noticeable effect in making my engine run smoother. After setting the floats right, the regular sync adjusting screws may need tweaking again. Glad to see you finally got it running right.
  2. If you don't need the extra revs, pulling the side cover off and advancing the pickup coil by 4* against the crank will do as much good as the D3K, if not even better. It will give a noticeable bit more part throttle responsiveness. All the D3K does is move the WOT advance curve around. It doesn't do anything with the part throttle curve. Advancing the pickup coil moves everything.
  3. Wow, why should HR care if you have a copy of the video or not? Maybe she's friends with porch boy?
  4. The wiring harnesses are totally different, front to back to top to bottom. The RSTD does have cruise, but the power switch is on the RH switch box instead of on the dash. So the RH switch box is different. So is the left one - no talk switch. And it's more than just leaving out two wires. Even the connectors are different. The main cut off relay is not even the same thing. The main connections are made in the headlight bucket.
  5. I'm using a Picassa account with Google, which doesn't have an IMG code box, only an HTML code box and a direct link box. I'm trying to figure out how to convert the HTML code to IMG code. I've played with it quite a bit and can't get anything to work.
  6. Wow, fantastic that you have that on video! Nail the lying bugger!
  7. PM sent.
  8. That's one way. But what if I want to put a picture directly into a post and don't want it to do the thumbnail routine?
  9. Alright, that's understandable. I have a technical question then. If I have a picture hosted somewhere and they have only HTML code available for posting it elsewhere, how do I convert that to BB code which this site can use? I'm not real savvy with this kind of stuff.
  10. Don, would you consider allowing HTML code in signature permissions?
  11. You're referring to the passing lamps? There is a H7616 sold by NAPA that puts out a lot more light.
  12. I've heard that the reason that risers won't work on the RSTD is because of the speedo mounting arrangement. You might give the Flanders handlebars a try though. They give a little more pullback while mounting in your stock risers.
  13. The early Royal Stars do not have AIS. Did you turn the mixture screws in to lightly seat them counting the turns in and back out, so that you know exactly where they are, or did you just arbitrarily turn them out another 1/4 turn or so from wherever they were? I would turn them in just until lightly seated and then back them out again, so that you know that they are all the same. I wouldn't count on Y setting them all the same to begin with. You may still have one that's turned in farther than the rest of them. I once had a backfiring going on in only one cylinder and only when the engine was stone cold. I finally discovered that I had lost the O ring that goes in the side cover, probably once when I had them off adjusting shims under the needle. The vacuum leak was making this popping noise in the one muffler. Once the engine warmed up though, it went away, and I could never tell there was a vacuum leak by the way the engine ran. With four mufflers, it's real easy to tell which cylinder has the problem. If you've ever had the covers off, you might give them a check.
  14. I think it's called cannon cocking. It sounds like a good way to blow the packing out of your mufflers. I have a guess about how to do it, but I'm not sure. It sounds interesting. Might be grounds for turning my kill switch back into a kill switch. Maybe someone will speak up and explain it?
  15. Wow, that's too bad. You paid too much for that to be like that. If you return it, make sure he will refund shipping too. Leave bad feedback no matter what. With no bad feedback for buyers, sellers are going to have to tighten up their acts. If you decide to keep it, since the hardware is decent, you could get a piece of 3/16" Lexan and cut it to fit. You could make it as tall as you want. You could also get a tinted piece that might look pretty cool. I'm planning to do this myself, as I need a higher windshield than Y makes for these bikes.
  16. Carburetors and bikes ran fine for decades without carb heaters. But now that Y put them in, why are so many afraid to disconnect them? They're totally unnecessary. Though with a 55 amp stator, I would imagine there's plenty of room for them anyway.
  17. ...and two kids can throw the thing up on two skateboards and roll it away. A disk lock may be a bit of a deterrent for some, but nothing is foolproof.
  18. I've always heard the same thing about charging a MC battery with too much current. But as I think about it, the stock alternator can put out what, 30 or so amps. I don't see any current limiters in between that and the battery. I'd go ahead and put a 10 or 15 amp charger on it. I've done it on mine. When you jump start the bike from a car battery you're getting a lot more current than that. Just make absolutely sure that you don't overcharge the thing at that rate. It can be ruined in a hurry if you don't pay attention.
  19. I think you must mean 55 amps, rather than watts. I don't have Buckeye's HO stator, but I want it. I recently PMd a few members asking how it was working out. The general response was that it worked fine, just as long as you solder and hard wire the connections and get rid of the snap connectors. Fifty-five amps is a huge amount of power. That amount should be able to run everything you want, plus heated gear for two people besides. Some of my older cars have only 35 amp alternators on them, and they've always been able to run lights, wipers, radio, AC, all at the same time, and keep the battery charged just fine.
  20. The early Royal Stars' 28mm carbs are completely different then the 32s. (Sorry Don.) The only way to get the caps out is to drill them. Just be careful not to go too far. At least they're on the outside where the carbs don't have to be removed from the bike to do this. I think the pilot screws are slotted, but I'm not sure anymore. Mine have been gone for some time.
  21. Another note from another tire company saying not to use car tires on motorcycles. Yawn and snore. How many times do we have to read all the naysayers stuff? You don't have anything new left to say, and it's all been refuted over and over again. If you don't want to run a CT, then don't. Past that, drop it already. The CT size that most closely matches our rear tire in height and width is 165/80R15. It's a bit of an odd size and there are only two or three manufacturers making this size of tire. The 155/80R15 is smaller and will put the speedo a little farther off than it already is. It will otherwise work fine. A 175/80R15, well, good luck trying to find a tire in that size. There are plenty of tires in a 185 size, but they are too wide to fit our bike. For more information, check the darkside group, link to be found at the bottom of any of flb's posts.
  22. I think we're heading over on Saturday morning ourselves. We'll run 224 all the way to whatever highway it is that runs south out of Oberlin, then head north on it. I've heard elsewhere that 224 is a real nice ride anyway, and it goes by not far from me.
  23. Well that's good. At least they're not just for looks now. They actually serve a purpose. BTW, did this bike get the VVT? I heard talks about that, but now I don't see anything about the bike having it. Am I missing something?
  24. So are the fake air scoops. I have never like those things. I have always though this bike would look better with a cover that looked like a regular gas tank. It's really the only thing I don't like about it though.
  25. I see, they are for adding key words for searches. Thanks.
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