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Everything posted by pegscraper
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Well uh... When I got my bike it had a Y filter on it. I cut it apart to look at it. Second worst filter I've ever seen in my life. The filter element is really bad. I'd use a Honda filter before I used a Y filter. They're decent, but they're too expensive. The Supertech ST7317 from Mallwart is as good as anything going, and it only costs a couple bucks or so. Check this link for other decent oil filters. Our bike falls into group 5 way down at the bottom. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=523
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Somewhere on here in the past there have been pics posted showing the inferior filter element and poor materials and construction of the Fram. Do a search, or check some of the links at the bottom of this page. Or cut one apart yourself and compare it to some others. I'll never touch another Fram again.
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Oh I'm sure it's going to be just my opinion and that I'm welcome to hold whatever opinion I want to. And it really doesn't matter what my opinion is. I can think anything I want to. But I just can't seem to get the bike to change its opinion. The bike is only telling me one thing.
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My bike never had the chirp until I tried synthetic oil. I noticed it immediately, and the first time the wife rode with me on it she said something to me about it. She knows I like to tinker with the bike anyway. "I'm hearing this awful whine. What have you done to the bike now?" I had done nothing but change the oil and try some synthetic. I've never believed in the stuff, but everyone raves about it so much that I thought I should give it an honest try. I wanted to be wrong. I wanted it to shift smoother and all that. I was on the fence, and I believed these things were going to happen and I tried to convince myself that I could feel a difference. But I can't. Really all it did was make the engine whine and it doesn't even shift smoother. Synthetic oil sucks, an expensive waste of money. And I've proven it to myself now. I'm going back to regular next time.
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It's really not that much of a PIA. There are barely two posts a day there, if that. It shouldn't be that difficult for you to keep up. There's just not that much information to be had. All of it could be mentioned in one single post. There's already nothing going on there. When's the last time you posted anything? Some six pages back. Another whole forum for just one topic? It would be dead.
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Does not the social group thing over there serve the purpose? To find it easily, go to quick links at the top right, down to social groups, and they all come up.
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It's too lean, for whatever reason - vacuum leaks, mixture screws need turned out, pilots too small, something. A lean condition causes problems when the engine is cold and improves when it runs for a bit and warms up. A rich condition does just the opposite.
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Thanks Don.
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Would it be too much trouble to add more favorite smilies? There are 1 1/2 lines at the bottom for favorites. Could you at least make it two full lines? Actually I wouldn't mind a third line either if it would work okay and wouldn't take up more server space or however that works. There are more smilies in the stash I would like to have as favorites.
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Cal, do you still need the drilled allen bolt that holds the passing lamp in place? I have an extra from when one of mine broke and I replaced them both with some stouter ones that I fabricated. If you need it, PM me your address and I'll send it out.
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What good is our warrantee?
pegscraper replied to a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
1st gens don't have any problems, eh? I hear that Squid's '86 is having a wee bit of trouble and he's sick of wasting his summer screwing with it instead of riding. He's ready to go back to a 2nd gen, after how few weeks? That sure didn't last long. -
"Enjoying What Life Brings on Two Wheels."
pegscraper replied to Ndiaz's topic in South Atlantic States
"there typos". You must mean "their typos". -
I don't know what the manual has to say about it. I don't read the manual for much more than bolt torque specs. I look at the thing and I see that the mounting holes are slotted for position adjustment. Then they used security screws to keep folks from playing with it. They set it at the factory and probably don't intend for it to ever be adjusted again. Once it's set up the first time, it normally won't ever need it.
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Wow, you really have too much time on your hands. Do you peruse through the shop manuals just looking for errors? Wanna know another one? Pick up a V Max shop manual and look up what the firing order is. Why is it different than our engine, and how can it possibly be different when the cams interchange? I've heard tell that some 1st gen manuals have this wrong too. What the TPS does is adjust the spark timing based on engine load. Under constant cruise the spark should advance for better gas mileage. Under WOT is should be retarded to avoid detonation. Exactly where the shift occurs is not real critical, as long as all spark advance is gone under WOT. I've never checked mine with a VOM. I have checked it with the status LED on the D3K. As long as the status of the LED changes at about half throttle, it's good. If you don't have a D3K, get one. The TPS is adjustable, but it takes special bits to loosen the screws. Vise grips will loosen them also, and then regular screws can be put in. Unless you're having detonation problems at part throttle, you will never see or feel any difference in the bike's operation by playing with this thing.
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Main jets don't come into operation until about 1/2 throttle or more. Main jets have no effect on idle. The main jets don't have needles in them. az's explanation is a little unclear. Let's see if I can muddy if up further. Cylinder #1 fires at 0*, #3 at 180*, #2 at 430*, and #4 at 610*, then back to #1 again at 720*. The 430* comes from 360* plus 70* (the V angle of the engine). That is the gap between combustion strokes. Then 430* plus another 180* is 610*. That leaves only another 110* until #1 fires again (610* plus 110* = 720*), and the combustion strokes of #4 and #1 overlap by 70* (180* - 110*). The thing of it is, the V Max will have this same type of uneven firing spacing. So if staggered jetting makes more power, why doesn't the V Max use staggered jetting? I say staggered jetting doesn't have anything to do with uneven firing. And I think that staggering the jetting like Y did on the 2nd gen engine is a little silly.
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I got 16,000 miles out of my last Avon Venom rear tire. The front, mounted at the same time, is still going. I really like them.
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George Carlin has passed on at 71. RIP. http://www.cnn.com/2008/SHOWBIZ/06/23/carlin.memories.irpt/?iref=mpstoryview
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why the change?
pegscraper replied to smokeeater's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The wide ratio gears in the transmission are really too high for the engine, from second gear on up, but especially fifth gear is way too high. The VMX rear gear lowers them by about 11%, and puts the engine a little closer to its powerband letting it run easier. This engine does not like to lug. It likes to rev. The stock rear gear is 33/10, and the VMX rear gear is 33/9. -
It is a little strange, isn't it? My only guess is that is has something to do with the coolant path through the engine, with the last ones in line being jetted richer to compensate for running a little hotter. (That would be similar to why air cooled V twins typically have the rear cylinder jetted richer.) I haven't traced out the coolant path though, to see if this might be why. It didn't matter enough to me. Yes, the early Royal Stars used all the same jets for every cylinder. Mine was that way stock. So when I swapped the 32mm carbs on, I stayed with all the same size jets all around. I figured I could watch the plugs and mufflers to see if I thought I might need to stagger the sizes. With four mufflers it's real easy to see what each cylinder is doing. After two years of watching things, I haven't seen a need to stagger the jets. All four plugs and all four mufflers look the same. The main jets are only for WOT operation anyway. At least the pilots were the same from the factory. The pilot jets are where the bike runs most of the time. Did the 1st gens have staggered main jetting like this? I have no idea.
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Yup, carbs. I tried this several times. No dice.
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I tried this on my wife's V Star 1100 the other day, as the kill switch on hers will still actually kill the engine. I can't get it to work. The engine just starts right back up and keeps going. Where's the bang?
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It doesn't look like anyone has. Where would you get such a rim anyway, and what is the purpose of it?
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Finally running right
pegscraper replied to Freebird's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Set calipers at 8 to 9 mm and measure from the gasket surface to the bottom of the float. I prefer 8mm, which sets the float higher and makes the carbs a bit richer. They're set up to run too lean as it is. -
Thanks.
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Don, you at one time had put a link in a member's gallery to view the public profile. With all the recent changes, it seems to have disappeared. Would you please add that back in? I really liked that feature.
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