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Everything posted by pegscraper
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The early Royal Stars with the 28mm carbs had all one size main jet. They were not staggered like the later Ventures are. And they did not have the AIS either. When I swapped 32mm carbs onto my bike, I stayed with all one size jet, like my bike had been. I figured I could watch plugs and mufflers and decide if I thought they needed to be staggered. With four mufflers, it's real easy to tell what's going on in each cylinder. In two years I can't see any need for it. All plugs and all mufflers look the same to me. The 1st gen Ventures and the VMXs also use just one size main jet. I completely fail to see any rhyme or reason for staggered jetting on the 2nd gens.
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Those are rear wheel numbers. If you check the history section, you'll see 2nd gens are rated at 1 more hp than 1st gens are.
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Interesting.
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staggered main jet thread
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Really, really sorry we couldn't make this one.
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To clutch, or not to clutch. THAT is the question.
pegscraper replied to Schlepporello's topic in Safety and Education
The way I've always done it is to go through all the motions just like normal, except you just don't pull the clutch lever. In Total Control by Lee Parks, he describes this a little differently. I happen to have the book with me even though I'm away. The book allows quoting brief passages, so I'll copy the text. "The basic upshifting technique involves preloading the shift lever by pressing your foot down with just slightly less force than that needed to engage the next gear. Next, quickly roll off the throttle approximately 25 percent of its twisting range. When this happens, the torque force on the transmission will temporarily unload, and the preloaded shift lever will now snick into the next gear. For regular shifts at less than full throttle, a simultaneous, light stab of the clutch will help ease this process. For full throttle speed shifting, no clutch is necessary. In fact, it's actually harder on the transmission to use the clutch in this type of situation than to just let the loading forces do the job. Most riders are amazed the first time they find that they don't need to used the clutch in high performance shifting. These techniques will make the ride noticeably smoother for passengers as well." -
To clutch, or not to clutch. THAT is the question.
pegscraper replied to Schlepporello's topic in Safety and Education
In the book Total Control, the author advocates not using a clutch, and claims that if it's done right, it's actually easier on the transmission than using it. He describes the technique, which is not exactly the way I have ever done it. I'm away from my bike for a few days, but when I get back to it, I'll give his method a try. -
And the lamo who hit it and ran, please tell me they're going to be held responsible. Your pics made me sick to my stomach, whether a 1st gen is my pick of bike or not. I hate to see a bike down. It's like seeing a horse down.
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I haven't heard anything on this for a while, unless I'm missing something. What's the story?
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Since I had a request for this, here's a pic of how I advanced the stock pickup coil. It's fairly easy on this bike because the coil mounts to the bracket with its own screws. Simply slot the holes out with a Dremel tool and slide the pickup coil over. Then use loctite to hold the screws in place. I made marks at 2* and 4*. I don't remember what these dimensions are right off, but they're easy to calculate. I have left mine at 4* advanced, which is about the maximum that the holes can be slotted out anyway.
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Wow, I sure wouldn't try to run that tire 700 more miles. You might push a few, maybe, if you keep the speed way down. See those lighter spots in the rubber in the center? Those areas are right ready to show cord too. The Avon shows cord sooner than you think it ought to. I came home one day a couple weeks ago and found mine looking just like yours. I knew it was getting worn down, but I thought I had several weeks left in it. I had put around 100 miles on that day. I was instantly grounded. I did ride it about ten more miles in short trips because I just had to get on my bike. But I'd sure be afraid to run it any 700. A wreck just isn't worth it. You mentioned being willing to do a CT. I put the Federal SS657 165/80R15 on my bike and I'm really liking it.
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VMX heads won't fit the 2nd gen. V boost really doesn't either; it takes some serious modifications to get that in there. Advancing the pick up coil 4* against the crank will give some boost at part throttle. It takes a little modification work, but it's not difficult, and it's free.
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Does Avon not make either size, or just one of them? What's on the bike stock? I suppose Brickstones.
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That WW is 2 1/4" wide, exactly the same as what was on the Avon Venom I took off. I've had WWs on virtually every car I've ever owned. I guess the maintenance of them doesn't bother me.
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Here it is, the Federal SS657 165/80R15, with WWs courtesy of dbtire. Yes, it feels a little different, but no different than any other time I've put on a new rear tire. My old tire was worn down to the cords. A brand new tire will always feel different. Here I haven't put my saddlebags back on yet. I like the looks of this, and I like the feel of it too. No handling issues whatsoever. I can still live up to my namesake just fine.
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I got over 15,000 miles out of the one set I had. I changed because they don't make a WW in the narrow front size that I wanted.
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Buy a Mac, and then just sit back and laugh at stuff like this.
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It's hard to know what to say. Everyone's bum is different. For me, the Corbin dual tour seat is the best thing I've ever tried on this bike, which includes both the midnight and the pillow top seats. But you didn't like that one. So...
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I submit that you didn't run the tire long enough to properly scrub it in. Until the tire gets scrubbed in, you have to ride it easier. No revelation here. And a CT may well take longer to scrub in than a MT too, especially the corners. Three hundred and fifty miles is not enough to determine anything. I've had MTs kick out on me like that also when I got too aggressive in the curves. Go put more like 500 to 1000 miles on it and then see what you think.
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To clutch, or not to clutch. THAT is the question.
pegscraper replied to Schlepporello's topic in Safety and Education
It's always been my habit to use the clutch for the 1 - 2, and then not use it for the rest of them, upshifting, that is. I always use it downshifting. The harder I'm into the throttle, the smoother it goes. But if I'm accelerating very slowly, like in traffic, the clutch pretty well has to be used; at that rate it just won't shift smooth at all. I find that if I'm into it full throttle, it takes longer to execute a shift with the clutch than it does to wind through the gear. That's a serious time waster. Not going to use it there. -
Plastic repair / higher gears
pegscraper replied to CAZCO's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
The number of teeth on the gears in the transmission is given in the shop manuals. -
Oh YEAH! Well
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passing lamp burned out
pegscraper replied to paperboy's topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I've heard that the H7616 from NAPA will work and puts out a lot more light. I haven't tried them myself yet. I've been waiting for mine to burn out. -
I'm just as glad that it's gone too. I vote for leaving it off.
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Plastic repair / higher gears
pegscraper replied to CAZCO's topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
You could always put in a transmission gear set from a 2nd gen. Still 5 gears, but wider spaced ratios. A 2nd gen 4th gear is like a 1st gen 5th gear. The 2nd gen 5th gear is an extreme overdrive. Sounds like a pretty big job. Don't know much about the plastic.