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pegscraper

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Everything posted by pegscraper

  1. The cheapest way is to have the wife hold the bike vertical while I pour oil into the engine and watch the sight glass. The easiest way is to use a jack to hold the bike vertical. The last bike I owned was an XS1100 which had a center stand. I do miss having one on my bike, but that's the way it is.
  2. (Quick check for asbestos skivvies.) The history section on this very board says that the compression ratios between the MkI and MkII are the same, as well as the all the various gear ratios between the crankshaft and the rear wheel. Y's parts website shows that the cams are the same thing. Quite frankly I think that this MkI being the fastest bit is nothing more than an old wives tale. There's no reason for it whatsoever in the bikes themselves that I've been able to find. And they have 100ccs less besides. The only real reason can be rider skill in launching. And I will not claim to have the skill it takes to make a bike perform its absolute best in an all out drag race. While we're at it, the only reason that 1st gens are any faster than 2nd gens, IF they are actually any faster at all, is the gear ratios in the transmission. 1st gens are geared like a V Max in the transmission. The 2nd gen transmission gear ratios are too far apart and 5th gear is too high. Actually 1st gear is virtually the same thing. Every gear after that is progressively more and more too high. But rider skill is still the biggest variable between the two. Let the flaming begin.
  3. An article on carburetor operation? Wow, you sure know how to ask a lot of the poor guy. There are a lot of articles on the net about motorcycle carburetor operation and tuning.
  4. I'd seen the Bozo one before. The Taz image hadn't occurred to me. Those are both just hysterical. The bike is Bozo's hair on Taz. I had forgotten that Bozo's hair was that wide.
  5. Oh yes, I got them mixed up. Right character, wrong name. Been a while since I've seen that.
  6. Yes, Colonel Klink.
  7. Hopefully that's all. If I ever tried that I'd be afraid that I'd be picking myself and my bike up out of the ditch.
  8. So what happens when you do that unsuccessfully?
  9. That's a real nice piece there, Brad. I'm impressed. I'd like to have one on my bike too, and I'll have to make one to get what I want. I don't have the framework around the bags that you have.
  10. No, we don't have snow around here in October. Only about half the time have we seen any snow flurries by Thanksgiving, and seldom any accumulation. I know if you hit the Canadian border though, you'd better have dogsled reservations. Heated gear might be real nice though, especially on a trip like that. Being cold all day on the bike is no fun.
  11. Where would you reroute the wires to?
  12. Maybe so, being yellow. But my current sealed beams are pretty yellow anyway compared to the Silverstar headlight. List the candlepower too, please. Will those bulbs really fit in Y's stock passing lamp housings? It does sound rather tempting. I had always been tempted to put some aircraft landing lights in my old cars on the high beams, but never got around to it.
  13. They could be wired in series for only a 50W total power draw. That's less than the pair of 30 or 35W bulbs in parallel many of us use now, and I'd bet still more light. Then include a relay to switch to parallel operation ... if you ever needed to put someone's eyes out. You'd certainly want to have ample wiring and a HO stator for that too. With Buckeye's 55A stator it would be no problem. I think the beam spread of my 4449s is fine. What I would want is more candlepower out of them. What are the beam spread and other specs on those landing lights? Here's another idea. Maybe have them switch to parallel when the horn is activated. Pairing that setup with a Stebel air horn would be a real nice combination. This kind of stunt sounds right up my alley.
  14. A larger battery? Wrong. If the alternator won't put out enough current, it doesn't matter how big the battery is. A bigger battery will just take longer to discharge under heavy load. But it will still discharge. A bigger alternator is what is needed to keep up with the current demand and still keep the battery charged. Several here have installed Buckeye's 55 amp stator in this bike, and they all say that it works fine. You will need to do away with the plastic connectors though, and solder the wires together instead. But a 55A stator will put out enough current to run all the lighting you want plus heated gear for two besides. I want one of his stators myself. You will, however, have to disconnect a thing or two to get it in there.
  15. I've laced up and trued spoke wheels many times. I'd be happy to do it. I'm a ways away from you though. Hit up a bicycle shop first.
  16. First and easiest thing is to make sure you have proper air pressure in the tires. Second is to make sure the steering head bearings are tight enough. Y is bad about leaving them too loose. Up on a jack, the front end should be tight enough that the bars will not fall back on their own when lifted just off of the locks. Anything less than that is too loose. Either one or both of these will cause such instability.
  17. We had rain and strong, gusty winds here in northeastern IN all weekend due to Ike. No damage anywhere that I'm aware of. Seeing rain and wind this far inland from a hurricane, I can't even imagine what it must have been like in its path farther south.
  18. Here's the most complete oil filter chart I've ever seen. Ours is in group 5 down at the bottom. The Supertech ST7317 is as good as anything going. Do not use Fram or, amazingly, Yamaha's own filters either. Their construction and filter elements are terrible. Rotella T diesel oil is good. It's available in both regular and synthetic. The synthetic actually caused my bike to do the gear whine. Back to regular for me, and it instantly disappeared. Both of these are available from Mallwart.
  19. The car body I had seen on a trailer disappeared the next day. I haven't seen another one old enough.
  20. Oh, aircraft landing lights would be a lot of fun.
  21. Along with the chromed forks, the four stainless covers at the top of them will be buffed to a high polish instead of a brushed finish. I've heard that the S stands for shiny, but I've never heard it from Yamaha themselves. The brushed covers can be buffed out if you would want. I did it to mine.
  22. Wow, I posted and two others snuck in ahead. Since you're loading the brakes heavy with a trailer and the fluid is a couple years old, you may want to flush out the whole thing and put all new fluid in. As brake fluid breaks down and absorbs moisture, its boiling point gets lower. The same fluid works in the clutch too.
  23. Dot 4 is what you want. Dot 5 is silicone fluid. You don't want that stuff. Dot 3 would work okay but has a lower boiling point.
  24. No such numbers on my sealed beams. Printed on the back of both of mine is: Wagner 4449 12.8V SAE C 30W (date) Don't know if this tells you anything. I didn't see any other numbers on them anywhere. These are Yamaha bulbs, too.
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