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pegscraper

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Everything posted by pegscraper

  1. pegscraper
    Waste of money, in this case. The rest of the air intake path is too restrictive to allow better air filters to do any good. The air filters are not where the greatest restriction is. If they actually did do any good, the carbs would require rejetting. And in this case, they don't.
  2. pegscraper
    Here are links to three ways the speedo can be corrected. http://www.blackrobotics.com/ http://www.dynamicimports.net/p30.html http://www.speedohealer.com/eng/intro.htm
  3. pegscraper
    Just under? Eight horse is a lot when the vehicle only weighs 800 lbs. And being a V twin it had to have what, 400 more cubes to even get that close. It doesn't make a significant amount of power or it wouldn't be a belt drive. Torque sells motors, horsepower wins races.
  4. pegscraper
    You're dreaming if you think that Kaw will hold a candle to your current bike. I thought first gens were supposed to be fast.
  5. pegscraper
    It looks nice, at least in pictures. I would never own one because I don't want a V twin engine - no power.
  6. pegscraper
    Our thoughts and prayers are with you, Gary.
  7. pegscraper
    Here is ctraylor's thread on making your own heated vest. I think I'll be trying this myself this year.
  8. pegscraper
    K&N filters don't require a rejet no matter what else is done.
  9. pegscraper
    The sky area around and just outside the silhouettes of the birds is blurred.
  10. pegscraper
    So, removing shims from under the needles is what you're saying.
  11. pegscraper
    The regulator is a voltage regulator, to keep from overcharging the battery. The current is not limited. The stator will put out whatever amperage the load demands, up to its output limit.
  12. pegscraper
    (Bozo alert.) They most certainly do refer to the sensor as a boost sensor. It says "boost sensor" right on the daggone thing. When is the last time you looked at one? Unsynching the carbs only "slightly" is not going to change the vacuum enough to make any difference in how the vacuum advance operates. Unsynching the carbs to the point where it would make a difference in now the vacuum advance operates is only going to make the engine run like crap.
  13. pegscraper
    I've been told by a Yamaha dealer's mechanic that if the pickup coil is good, you can measure between 3 and 9 volts on it with a VOM. I didn't think to ask if this works at cranking speed or not, when you have an engine won't run. But I don't know why it wouldn't. That's kind of the assumption anyway, because if the engine were running, you wouldn't need to be checking out the coil. Have you tried measuring the resistance of the pickup coil to make sure it's not open? I'm almost certain the shop manual has a spec for that.
  14. pegscraper
    Glad you're okay, Bob.
  15. pegscraper
    Take a rest, Don. You work hard and do a lot for us, and it is appreciated.
  16. pegscraper
    A buddy of mine has used Maxxis. He likes the ride and handling, and that they have WWs in our sizes. But he only gets around 7000 miles out of them. Pretty poor IMHO. I'd take a Dunlop over a Maxxis myself.
  17. pegscraper
    I thought the Double D mainly referred to the thing having two stock springs in it. No?
  18. pegscraper
    Well, in the clutter of information that was given here, I have finally deduced the answers to my original questions. It took a while for some of them to get addressed. But I think I finally understand the clutch thing. I've just never had to fix one before, in anything. I was actually to the point of skipping any clutch thread here because they were always confusing to me. But the time had come for me to wade through it. Odd for me, as there's not much about an engine that I don't know. I have heard not to tighten the bolts up to spec, but just to get them snug and use blue loctite on them to keep them from loosening. My clutch has only slipped on me a couple times when passing, or trying to. It slips more than that when accelerating from a dead stop before hooking up the first time. I'll be very surprised if any of the discs are burned and need replaced. PCW's kit sounds like the best option for me. If I can manage to not hammer the engine too hard, the clutch may just last me until winter time, which is maintenance season around here. It's right around the corner.
  19. pegscraper
    I thought the lost in translation idea was pretty good. I have some old hifi magazines with some ads for Japanese equipment in them. It was obvious that whoever put those ads together didn't know a lick of English, and translated them directly and literally from a Japanese to English dictionary. They were just hilarious to read. Now that I'm reminded of those, I do see a little bit of that kind of thing in these shop manuals for our bikes. Suddenly I understand why they call the thing a boost sensor and refer to manifold vacuum as pressure, even though it still doesn't make any sense. How to play with the spark advance? In the 2nd gens, it's pretty easy to modify the mounting bracket to advance the pickup coil relative to the crank. I advanced mine 4*. I don't know what the 1st gens look like here. I've also been thinking about making an offset keyway to adjust the position of the flywheel on the crankshaft. This might be another option for a 1st gen. Playing with the vacuum advance would be trickier. Electrically, the vacuum sensor is a potentiometer with the wiper controlled by manifold vacuum. The only way I can think of to play with this would be to add some resistance to one side or the other of the potentiometer. That would make the wiper seem to be farther to the opposite end of the scale than it really is, adjusting the load based spark advance either sooner or later, depending on which side of the thing that resistance was added to. You would just have to trial and error this and see what happens. Does Dyna make an ignition module for the 1st gen? I also can't help but wonder if the ignition module for the '85 - '89 V Max is the exact same thing. I don't know that for sure though. But I know that Dyna makes an ignition module for the '85 - '89 V Max. If it wasn't an exact fit, I would think it wouldn't take too much to make it fit.
  20. pegscraper
    Sounds like a project. Can you weld? It may or may not bolt into the frame. Then the shock and suspension linkages are almost certainly different. Then the rear brake caliper mounting is almost certainly different. About the only way to know for sure is to get one from someone who has triked a 2nd gen and try it. The first gen rear wheel is still too narrow, isn't it? The second gen wheel is 4" wide inside the bead seats. You could use a 2nd gen rear wheel, which would eliminate the brake caliper issues. Shoot, just buy a 2nd gen and be done with it.
  21. pegscraper
    All car engines used manifold vacuum up until the 70s. Ported vacuum above the throttle plates was an emissions controls stunt. The idea was to remove all the spark advance at idle, making the engine run hotter and supposedly burn cleaner. Really all it did was make the engine use more gas. I always switched my cars back to manifold vacuum for spark advance. They idle and run better.
  22. pegscraper
    Are those units of pressure rather than of vacuum? Y calls the thing a boost sensor too, when I think it should be called a vacuum sensor because it senses manifold vacuum. Maybe they're also referring to spark advance in terms of pressure. There's no way it operates backwards to what you're familiar with. There's just no way it could work like that. That would be all wrong for the engine's requirements.
  23. pegscraper
    Be careful when you rake those fall leaves. Can you spot the copperhead in the first picture? If not, look at the second picture.
  24. pegscraper
    Nope, dial up is everywhere. I do like that color combination.
  25. pegscraper
    I really ought to have the upgrade with the hp mine makes. And I might not be done yet. I have a couple more tricks up my sleeve.
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