Jump to content

pegscraper

Expired Membership
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    2,094

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by pegscraper

  1. pegscraper
    Warm it up with a heat gun. It'll peel right off all in one piece very easily, no elbow grease required. A little mineral spirits will clean up the remaining residue.
  2. pegscraper
    There's not much to them. Just change the oil once a while and ride. They're largely the same bike, just one has an air cooled V twin with a belt drive and one has a water cooled V4 with a shaft drive. Keep in mind the V4 will want to run higher revs than what you're used to with a V twin. What year is it?
  3. pegscraper
    The early Royal Star's carbs are smaller, cams are smaller, and gearing is even higher than the RSV. They are the biggest pile of mismatched parts I ever saw. Everything can be corrected though.
  4. pegscraper
    If the floorboards are the same thing, I'd say it will fit. There are many such aftermarket parts that will fit RSTDs but aren't so listed. You have to compare parts like you've done. Rear brake light lenses and turn signal lenses are the same way.
  5. pegscraper
    I bought it right from a motorcycle dealer five years ago. I don't know if it's still available or not.
  6. pegscraper
    Wow that's cool. I was amazed to learn a few years ago from a friend of mine who has a '50 Chevy that the S10 truck manual transmission still uses the same case as these late '40s Chevies. That transmission is a bolt in swap.
  7. pegscraper
    And how many of us still want to call apps programs?
  8. pegscraper
    Yeah, I went back to the stock rear gear ratio also - after I put a VMX transmission in my bike. This thread is about the machining of a VMX rear gear housing. Put your opinions on the appropriateness of the gear ratios of this bike somewhere else.
  9. pegscraper
    I got dumb last night and was looking at the wrong side of the teeth on the ring gear. They do show a little wear. Not near as bad, but a little. This is the worst of it here. Most of the teeth don't show anything. No, I didn't see anything in the oil that looked bad.
  10. pegscraper
    That requires some expensive tools I don't have, and knowledge I don't have on setting up the gear lash, plus an assortment of shims to do it. This is a world simpler to me.
  11. pegscraper
    Remarkably, I thought the ring gear looked okay. I'll take some pictures of it tomorrow in the daylight and post them.
  12. pegscraper
    Look at that closely. There are some differences in the FJR rear housing. First, the four mounting bolts are longer and require a spacer of some sort to take up the gap. That can be accommodated, but... Second, there are some machining differences on the inside where the thing goes against the wheel. I don't know if a shim or something can be changed in there or not. I don't know if FJR gear housings can be made to work.
  13. pegscraper
    Sure, I'd do another one. Why not. Just make sure the VMX unit you get has the blank boss on it. Later ones have it and earlier ones don't. If it's not there, there's nothing to machine. Shoot me a pm for my address.
  14. pegscraper
    The VMX rear gear has a slightly lower ratio, 33/9 where the stock one is 33/10. Better performance and acceleration. The 2nd gens are geared too high and this helps out quite a bit.
  15. pegscraper
    Here's a view of the gearbox not very often seen.
  16. pegscraper
    The VMX rear gear unit is almost a direct swap on a 2nd gen. It only needs the blank boss milled out for the speedometer sensor. Here I am doing one for Condor. 1) Locate and bore out the main hole. 2) Machine the boss off flat. 3) Locate and drill the mounting bolt hole. 4) Tap in the threads. 5) Chamfer the holes, pull the shock bolt, take it apart and flush the shavings out real well, reassemble and it's ready to mount.
  17. pegscraper
    It looks good to me. I say you have it.
  18. pegscraper
    Well, I didn't think I was that tough a customer. But I did do it the wrong way before I did it the right way. I know the difference it makes and it's huge.
  19. pegscraper
    My brother lives just outside of Johnson City. He said they like that place.
  20. pegscraper
    Also note that when they went to the R1 style caliper on the later Roadstars, they also went to a 14mm M/C. Same with any other bike, cruiser or sportbike, that uses the R1 style caliper. This is the proper combination. I would not use R1 calipers with our stock 5/8" bore master cylinder, as it dramatically reduces the braking power of which the R1 calipers are capable.
  21. pegscraper
    It may not seem like a big difference on paper, but in practice it's huge. It will feel like you added power assist to your brakes. I tried the stock M/C with the R1 calipers too, and I thought it was horrible. That lasted just as long as it took me to procure a 14mm unit. Y always uses a 14mm M/C in conjunction with the R1 style calipers, no matter what bike they're on, and I recommend not using anything else but that.
  22. pegscraper
    Yup, that's what having an overdrive gear does, make all the rest of them too high too. Think of this bike as having gears two through six of a six speed transmission, and not having a first gear at all so it's back to five gears. When you get rolling in first gear, mentally tell yourself that you are already in second gear and don't shift up until you would normally shift out of second. And the same on up the line. It's a whole different bike then.
  23. pegscraper
    Good explanation. It creates the wrong leverage ratio between the M/C and the calipers. Actually I think I'd say the analogy the other way around. It would be like trying to drive a framing nail with a trim hammer. The small hammer won't have enough power to drive the nail. The stock M/C does not have the leverage to operate the R1 calipers properly. Oh it will work, but barely and with no improvement over stock. You'll wonder why those of us who have R1 brakes rave about them.
  24. pegscraper
    I agree. The stock front brakes on this bike are very weak. Braided lines help, but the real solution is R1/R6 calipers and a 14mm master cylinder. Don't do the calipers without getting the properly sized M/C. This brake setup also brings the front to rear braking power into balance and suddenly the rear brake doesn't feel touchy anymore. These are the brakes this bike should have had from the factory. Why does Y's heaviest bike have the weakest brakes? I don't remember years anymore. The previous generation of R1 calipers is what you want. If they look like they will fit, they will. The current R1 calipers are a completely different design and it's obvious that they won't fit. Calipers of this same design but with a different look can be found on later model Roadstars, Roadliners and Stratoliners. The only bike with a 14mm master cylinder of a style that matches our stock ones is the later model Roadstar. It will have a 14 cast into the front of the housing where the stock ones have 5/8. Don't do this brake conversion without the 14mm M/C.
  25. pegscraper
    Well, since I wrecked yours, let's do it right this time. A statue, you and your bike in the picture. Mention what the statue is, too. The statue in my picture is in the city square in Madrid, Spain. I don't remember what it is exactly. It could probably be googled and figured out.
×
×
  • Create New...